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· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
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18,368 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, first thing first, i have to give a shout out to Rich over @Glacier Diesel Power for helping me out on this one. 2 days ago, i found my coolant leak! it was the EGR delete coolant hose connection. what made this a real PITA to find, was that it was real intermittent to the leak was either a little bit here, and nothing here. most EGR kits come with the plate and holder set up that allows movement between the factory hose, and the o-ring fitting. Which leads to a random leak, that is hard to find because whenever you go looking for it it's not doing it. I found it by playing with all of the coolant hose right after shutoff until i found one that made a noise. When you move it around you'll hear coolant hiss out, and you will most likely see a very little amount come out. Unless your o-ring is bad, then you will likely see more and make this easier to locate So onto some pictures,

The culprit


You can see why i started looking around here for the leak, and why it was easy to find

The fix



You can tell why this is so much of a better design. It actually clamps down around the flare on the factory hose. Which will prevent any movement and leaks. When Rich spoke with me he swore his fitting doesn't leak, and won't leak. I was skeptical until i saw it. Once i had it in my hands i had no doubts about it at all, it won't leak.

Installed:


It only takes a couple minutes to install once the engine is cold. You should drain some coolant prior to disconnecting the hoses so you don't have any spillage, and before taking everything apart, make sure you can move your bleeder plug so you don't get everything apart and and back together only to find out that is seized on and you have to fix that now. Also, i would suggest opening the radiator first to check for pressure, so you don't get a surprise when you check to make sure the bleeder port is open. Let me know if anyone has any questions, comments, or can't see pictures, but at the end of the day, not all parts are created equal. this set up is bounds better then the old set up i had on my truck, and i have to thank Rich again, thankfully i live nearby him and was able to meet up with someone to get the part so i could put it in last night, as i go out on a business trip tonight with my truck for the weekend, and the last thing i wanted was to be leaking coolant in a loaded truck on the highway.....
 

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I need one of these. Looked on there website and only found the plugged version. I need your version.
 

· Cummins Freak
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Or just get rid of the bypass altogether and never fuss with it again.
That fitting is certainly an upgrade though.
 

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Ok...went ahead & got the standpipe hose adapter.
Mine is a different design, for a 13+.

$56 out the door...not bad.

It's good you don't have to buy the whole kit, if you only need the fitting. Nice that they piecemill it that way.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Changed out the old stand pipe fitting with the GDP.
Really opens it up, without that bracket.
The GDP is much better quality.
On the old fitting: It looks like a bad O-ring, and there is some wear as well.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
Joined
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18,368 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Richard over @Glacier Diesel Power always seems to think his products through, little things like this just show his attention to detail Looks good man! Thanks for posting the pics so the 13+ guys can see their version easily
 

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Yeah, it's a really good product.
I was glad to get rid of the metal bracket too.
It felt like the hoses and the pressure sensor where kinda jammed/jummbled together w/ that thing in the way.
It was only good for supporting the transmission dipstick, but I thought it would also help w/ holding in the stand pipe connector (it didn't).
I found a discreet way to ziptie/secure the dipstick, and you'd probably only see it if you were looking for it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
Joined
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18,368 Posts

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129 Posts
Just wanted to say thanks for this post! Was googling EGR cooler line leaking and found the fix here, and immediately went and ordered the part! So again, thank you!!!

Edited to ask how you guys are securing your transmission dipstick after deleting the metal bracket?
 

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2 Posts
So, first thing first, i have to give a shout out to Rich over @Glacier Diesel Power for helping me out on this one. 2 days ago, i found my coolant leak! it was the EGR delete coolant hose connection. what made this a real PITA to find, was that it was real intermittent to the leak was either a little bit here, and nothing here. most EGR kits come with the plate and holder set up that allows movement between the factory hose, and the o-ring fitting. Which leads to a random leak, that is hard to find because whenever you go looking for it it's not doing it. I found it by playing with all of the coolant hose right after shutoff until i found one that made a noise. When you move it around you'll hear coolant hiss out, and you will most likely see a very little amount come out. Unless your o-ring is bad, then you will likely see more and make this easier to locate So onto some pictures,

The culprit


You can see why i started looking around here for the leak, and why it was easy to find

The fix



You can tell why this is so much of a better design. It actually clamps down around the flare on the factory hose. Which will prevent any movement and leaks. When Rich spoke with me he swore his fitting doesn't leak, and won't leak. I was skeptical until i saw it. Once i had it in my hands i had no doubts about it at all, it won't leak.

Installed:


It only takes a couple minutes to install once the engine is cold. You should drain some coolant prior to disconnecting the hoses so you don't have any spillage, and before taking everything apart, make sure you can move your bleeder plug so you don't get everything apart and and back together only to find out that is seized on and you have to fix that now. Also, i would suggest opening the radiator first to check for pressure, so you don't get a surprise when you check to make sure the bleeder port is open. Let me know if anyone has any questions, comments, or can't see pictures, but at the end of the day, not all parts are created equal. this set up is bounds better then the old set up i had on my truck, and i have to thank Rich again, thankfully i live nearby him and was able to meet up with someone to get the part so i could put it in last night, as i go out on a business trip tonight with my truck for the weekend, and the last thing i wanted was to be leaking coolant in a loaded truck on the highway.....
So I ordered this part and installed but when I tightened down the clamp as tight as I could get it, the clamp was still lose.
 

· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
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18,368 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I ordered this part and installed but when I tightened down the clamp as tight as I could get it, the clamp was still lose.
Then something is not aligned correctly, i don't think Richard is selling his anymore as he no longer supports delete parts (like everyone else) Take a closer look at it and identify why it's loose, or what is not aligned correctly.
 

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Then something is not aligned correctly, i don't think Richard is selling his anymore as he no longer supports delete parts (like everyone else) Take a closer look at it and identify why it's loose, or what is not aligned correctly.
I tried the same as the pictures there isn’t any other way, I just bought it last week so I guess I’ll give them a call. It’s like it’s for a different size hose or something
 

· glacierdieselpower.com
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1,230 Posts
@Hunter1221 give us a call, if you haven't already. Sorry, a bit late to this post. Are you talking about the clamp that came with the hose already on your truck? That heater hose may be worn out. Fairly common.
 

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I have 2 questions from this old thread. I just installed the glacier bay fitting

1st what did you guys to to support the dipstick?
2nd with the Allen heads filly tightened on the solid section of standpipe it can still move forward or backwards. Is this how it should fit. The oring is sealed in there but has movement.
 

· glacierdieselpower.com
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1,230 Posts
I have 2 questions from this old thread. I just installed the glacier bay fitting

1st what did you guys to to support the dipstick?
2nd with the Allen heads filly tightened on the solid section of standpipe it can still move forward or backwards. Is this how it should fit. The oring is sealed in there but has movement.
It will still move some. The seal is tight though and wont leak on you anymore.
 

· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
Joined
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18,368 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It will still move some. The seal is tight though and wont leak on you anymore.
I still need to call you and bs one of these days....I have an idea for something that could be up your alley but I'm drinking right now and don't remember what it was
 

· glacierdieselpower.com
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1,230 Posts
@Loki223 yeah anytime! Looking forward to the conversation.

I'd love to hear the idea when you remember. We're working on an adaptation of our heater relocate for the 6.7 currently. We're making a custom boost tube for it. It'll maintain the EGR but still resolve the killer bolt issue.
 
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