Gear cover gasket part# 3914385
And no the kit is not worth $65 If your capable of getting to the KDP then you can make a tab for it.
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Killer Dowel Pin ?'s
So I'm going to take my cummins apart this weekend and look to see if this has been fixed. There is a gasket kit for this, does anyone have the part number for a 91 cummins? I assume if the dowel pin is still in there I can get to it really easy?
I've only had the truck for a week but I just want to make sure this doesn't happen. I have some 14 gauge steel I can tap and cut out to fix the issue or would the 65$ kit be worth it?
Thanks all!
I've only had the truck for a week but I just want to make sure this doesn't happen. I have some 14 gauge steel I can tap and cut out to fix the issue or would the 65$ kit be worth it?
Thanks all!
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
And no the kit is not worth $65 If your capable of getting to the KDP then you can make a tab for it.
Yeah I just spent 65$ it kit came with two round seals and a gasket. The gasket is about 36$ and the round gaskets are twenty dollars. Not sure what the two round gaskets are for.Gear cover gasket part# 3914385
And no the kit is not worth $65 If your capable of getting to the KDP then you can make a tab for it.
Is there a cummins website for part lookup? I just canceled my order, it looks napa sells a complete gasket set for 30$Gear cover gasket part# 3914385
And no the kit is not worth $65 If your capable of getting to the KDP then you can make a tab for it.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/...02_0159247060&An=599001+101991+50022+2022019#
hey-Hey!!!,
After the job, get out your letter punch set and strike 'TABBED' in the upper most horizontal part of the timing case. That way nobody will ever have to wonder. Also, that crank seal goes on with its sealing surface *DRY* for seal lip break in, they're quite serious about that; clean the seal journal on the crank with carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner and be sure it is spotless.
I got the TST kit for mine; just didn't feel like messing with it. Clean, locktite and re-torque the rest ov the case bolts hidden away under the timing case cover, as well as the cam retainer bolts. They're at least an equal risk as the KDP.
cheers,
Douglas
After the job, get out your letter punch set and strike 'TABBED' in the upper most horizontal part of the timing case. That way nobody will ever have to wonder. Also, that crank seal goes on with its sealing surface *DRY* for seal lip break in, they're quite serious about that; clean the seal journal on the crank with carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner and be sure it is spotless.
I got the TST kit for mine; just didn't feel like messing with it. Clean, locktite and re-torque the rest ov the case bolts hidden away under the timing case cover, as well as the cam retainer bolts. They're at least an equal risk as the KDP.
cheers,
Douglas
Here are some usefull torque specs...
Bracket, rear, engine lifting ---------------------57
Connecting rod---------------------------------26, then 52, then 74
Crankshaft damper & pulley---------------------92
Exhaust manifold to head-----------------------32
Flywheel adapter housing, Aluminum-------------44
Flywheel adapter housing, Iron------------------57
Flywheel housing cover-------------------------18
Flywheel to crankshaft-------------------------101
Gear housing timing cover-----------------------18
Injector retaining nut---------------------------44
Injector fuel drain banjo screw (in injector)-------72 in-lb
Intake manifold cover---------------------------18
Intake jacket water aftercooler to head----------18
Main Bearing------------------------------------44, then 88, then 129
Oil Pan------------------------------------------18
Rear seal mounting cover------------------------48 INCH/LBS
Rocker arm support------------------------------18
Transfer pump mounting--------------------------18
Turbo to manifold--------------------------------33
Valve cover-------------------------------------18
VE Bosch injection pump:
Solenoid, fuel shut off---------------------32
Solenoid, KSB-----------------------------16
TORQUE CONVERSION NOTE: 12 INCH POUNDS = 1 FOOT POUND
All are ft/lbs unless stated.:thumbsup:
Bracket, rear, engine lifting ---------------------57
Connecting rod---------------------------------26, then 52, then 74
Crankshaft damper & pulley---------------------92
Exhaust manifold to head-----------------------32
Flywheel adapter housing, Aluminum-------------44
Flywheel adapter housing, Iron------------------57
Flywheel housing cover-------------------------18
Flywheel to crankshaft-------------------------101
Gear housing timing cover-----------------------18
Injector retaining nut---------------------------44
Injector fuel drain banjo screw (in injector)-------72 in-lb
Intake manifold cover---------------------------18
Intake jacket water aftercooler to head----------18
Main Bearing------------------------------------44, then 88, then 129
Oil Pan------------------------------------------18
Rear seal mounting cover------------------------48 INCH/LBS
Rocker arm support------------------------------18
Transfer pump mounting--------------------------18
Turbo to manifold--------------------------------33
Valve cover-------------------------------------18
VE Bosch injection pump:
Solenoid, fuel shut off---------------------32
Solenoid, KSB-----------------------------16
TORQUE CONVERSION NOTE: 12 INCH POUNDS = 1 FOOT POUND
All are ft/lbs unless stated.:thumbsup:
Here are some usefull torque specs...
Bracket, rear, engine lifting ---------------------57
Connecting rod---------------------------------26, then 52, then 74
Crankshaft damper & pulley---------------------92
Exhaust manifold to head-----------------------32
Flywheel adapter housing, Aluminum-------------44
Flywheel adapter housing, Iron------------------57
Flywheel housing cover-------------------------18
Flywheel to crankshaft-------------------------101
Gear housing timing cover-----------------------18
Injector retaining nut---------------------------44
Injector fuel drain banjo screw (in injector)-------72 in-lb
Intake manifold cover---------------------------18
Intake jacket water aftercooler to head----------18
Main Bearing------------------------------------44, then 88, then 129
Oil Pan------------------------------------------18
Rear seal mounting cover------------------------48 INCH/LBS
Rocker arm support------------------------------18
Transfer pump mounting--------------------------18
Turbo to manifold--------------------------------33
Valve cover-------------------------------------18
VE Bosch injection pump:
Solenoid, fuel shut off---------------------32
Solenoid, KSB-----------------------------16
TORQUE CONVERSION NOTE: 12 INCH POUNDS = 1 FOOT POUND
All are ft/lbs unless stated.:thumbsup:
Wow that is some great info! Thanks a lot:thumbsup:
so will 18/20 gauge sheet metal be good to use for the tab?
ordered complete gasket kit from napa today $36 +tax
ordered complete gasket kit from napa today $36 +tax
What are the 1st gen guys doing for a tab?
Mine looks a little different case wise then the other pics I've seen
This one was sticking out about 1/8"
KDP
Mine looks a little different case wise then the other pics I've seen
This one was sticking out about 1/8"
KDP
I just used one of these I had in my tool box. https://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSR...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults Trimed it and reamed out the hole so the bolt next to the kdp would hold it in place.
I would think just about anything will work tho.
I would think just about anything will work tho.
I've seen a coathanger used the main idea is something to stop it from vibrating out, there is no pressure on the pin to push it out.
thanks for the ideas,
thats true, no pressure there , just need it to stay there
thats true, no pressure there , just need it to stay there
Just an update, I did the job this weekend. Unfortunately I cracked the radiator trying to get the old rusty hose off (lower). Anyways I bought the TST kit because the crank seal was about 30$ and then the gasket is another 30$. My review is yeah the kits very expensive. The tab doesn't fit on the first gen motor, there is a lip there. I had to take a punch and just bend the tab over. The dowel pin is sealed so I don't have to worry about that.
hey-Hey!!!,
I've put two TST kits into Gen 1 12V's, and both had the bent tab to fit over the contours of the timing case. I think the Gen 2 12V's took the flat tab, and that Gen 1 and 24V Gen 2 take the bent one.
cheers,
Douglas
I've put two TST kits into Gen 1 12V's, and both had the bent tab to fit over the contours of the timing case. I think the Gen 2 12V's took the flat tab, and that Gen 1 and 24V Gen 2 take the bent one.
cheers,
Douglas
Put it to bed, all that maters... Now murphy's law wakes something else up.
I have a radiator off a 92 if your interested but prob would cost more to ship than it's worth.
I have a radiator off a 92 if your interested but prob would cost more to ship than it's worth.
Too bad I wasted the money. You are a great source Sir
Are you putting a new front crank seal in the cover?
Sorry so late. Yes i am I was watching more videos. I have a seal driver set. Do I need that Driver from Cummins?Are you putting a new front crank seal in the cover?
I just used a big socket to put the seal in, put the seal in the freezer for a while to shrink it up.Sorry so late. Yes i am I was watching more videos. I have a seal driver set. Do I need that Driver from Cummins?
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
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