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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have had my 97 2500 for several years now. Since I bought it, I cannot control the passenger mirror or window from the driver's side. When I try to roll the window down, nothing happens. When I try to adjust the mirror it blows a fuse in slot 20 which on my fuse panel says stop lamp. It has a unique yellow fuse holder. Needless to say, everytime I try to adjust the passenger mirror it blows this fuse which then kills the interior lights, radio, and mirrors.

Any advice?
 

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Pull the passenger mirror off, trace the wires and find the dead short would be my recommendation.
 

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The yellow holder on the IOD (ignition-off-draw) is so you can easily disconnect that particular fuse temporarily without misplacing it. Generally a good idea if the truck is going to be sitting for a while.

Are you blowing fuse 17 or fuse 20? Either is possible (fuse 20 feeds fuse 17, which feeds the power mirrors), but I'd really expect 17 since it's a 15A vs a 20A fuse. You mention fuse 20 is blowing but also that it has the yellow IOD holder... which is clearly fuse 17 (bottom left) in both your pics... Anyway. GAmes has good advice as usual. I'd disconnect the passenger mirror entirely and then try the controls and see if it blows. If it does, you've got a short in the dash wiring you'll need to trace down. If not, then you've got a short internal to the mirror, and honestly... I'd just buy a new mirror at that point unless there's an obvious wear-through in the pigtail somewhere that can be fixed (which isn't impossible at all, given the location at the door hinge).

The window issue is likely unrelated (though, if you've got the wire bundle going through the passenger door rubbing on something, maybe not). Does it work from the passenger side controls? The switches themselves are known to go bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The yellow holder on the IOD (ignition-off-draw) is so you can easily disconnect that particular fuse temporarily without misplacing it. Generally a good idea if the truck is going to be sitting for a while.

Are you blowing fuse 17 or fuse 20? Either is possible (fuse 20 feeds fuse 17, which feeds the power mirrors), but I'd really expect 17 since it's a 15A vs a 20A fuse. You mention fuse 20 is blowing but also that it has the yellow IOD holder... which is clearly fuse 17 (bottom left) in both your pics... Anyway. GAmes has good advice as usual. I'd disconnect the passenger mirror entirely and then try the controls and see if it blows. If it does, you've got a short in the dash wiring you'll need to trace down. If not, then you've got a short internal to the mirror, and honestly... I'd just buy a new mirror at that point unless there's an obvious wear-through in the pigtail somewhere that can be fixed (which isn't impossible at all, given the location at the door hinge).

The window issue is likely unrelated (though, if you've got the wire bundle going through the passenger door rubbing on something, maybe not). Does it work from the passenger side controls? The switches themselves are known to go bad.
Both you and Forester are correct. I am blowing fuse 17 (IOD holder). I was looking at the fuse diagram as though it was on the truck which reversed the locations in my mind.

I am upgrading the stock mirrors to tow mirrors this weekend so I will update if removing the passenger mirror makes a difference.

The passenger window will roll down using the controls on the passenger door just not the driver's. I may looking into getting a new driver's side control unit.
 

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The passenger window will roll down using the controls on the passenger door just not the driver's. I may looking into getting a new driver's side control unit.
They're still available brand new and usually in stock. See attached from the FSM, they're pretty quick to test. Note that either switch may have failed (the driver's side switch goes through the passenger side switch).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
They're still available brand new and usually in stock. See attached from the FSM, they're pretty quick to test. Note that either switch may have failed (the driver's side switch goes through the passenger side switch).
Sorry for the stupid question but I just want to ensure I understand. Do the switches need to be powered although if they were plugged in I do not know how I would test them. Second do you have a source to buy new ones?
 

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Sorry for the stupid question but I just want to ensure I understand. Do the switches need to be powered although if they were plugged in I do not know how I would test them. Second do you have a source to buy new ones?
Do you have a multimeter? If not, you should get one :D The really cheap analog ones are only good in a pinch, but a 'decent' digital one is only 30 or 40 bucks at a hardware store. You'll want one that can sound an audible tone in 'continuity' mode -- essentially if there is electrical continuity between the two probes, you'll hear a sound. Then you remove the switch from the truck, and follow the chart, holding the switch in the indicated position and checking for continuity on the indicated pins.

As far as a source... www.oreillys.com, www.autozone.com, www.amazon.com... they are not a special order of any kind. Very good chance your local box store will have them in stock today, and if not, they'll be able to have them tomorrow. The switch bezels are unavailable new anymore though, unfortunately, so be careful with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a Klein tool mm200 although I really do not know how to use it. But it came with instructions so I will figure it out.
 

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I have a Klein tool mm200 although I really do not know how to use it. But it came with instructions so I will figure it out.
Just pulled up a pic of that. To get you started, plug in the the black probe in the center port and the red on the right port (The left port is only used for high-amperage current checking), turn the knob to the setting 4th from the left (the one that has two icons, one looks like a little speaker). Then if you touch the probes together, it ought to beep. You may need to press the 'func' button once to switch from diode to continuity mode.

One of the fun things about owning an old-ass truck is you'll get real used to the multimeter... Continuity mode will come up a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So is it safe to say that if one does not admit a tone the entire switch needs to be replaced
 

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So is it safe to say that if one does not admit a tone the entire switch needs to be replaced
Yep. I mean, I might try to spray some contact cleaner in there and working the switch some. Suppose somebody could have just spilled some Coke in there or something. Wouldn't spend much time or effort on that though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well problems solved. Got a new driver side power window switch fixed the window issue. New mirror solved the blown fuse issue. Thank you everyone for the advice and support.
 
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