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The KDP doesn't set timing, "they" lied to you.

If you knew the process and had the special tools, it would take 2 days of solid work, so forget about having it fixed tomorrow. It is an involved process that requires in-depth knowledge. I have done it many times and have/made the tools, but even the lifter "tray" is involved to make.

Before you relax, check your exhaust manifold. I bet it has shrunk enough to bend the mounting bolts on #1.6 and you need to replace it with an aftermarket 3-piece manifold before it breaks an ear off the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If this wasn't my only vehicle and I didn't live 30mins from town as well as had a garage id be doing this myself.

With them picking it up today mechanic shop said they might get to look at it today if not first thing monday. Im already at best case scenario looking at a week.

Why would my exhaust manifold shrink? And how would I go about checking that. I have gauges in the truck and ive nvr had it over 1300 degress. It runs about 700 on interstate.

Got go unload the truck before they get here but ill keep yall informed. Hopefully this post will help more people with all this great knowledge from yall.
 

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The KDP doesn't set timing, "they" lied to you.

If you knew the process and had the special tools, it would take 2 days of solid work, so forget about having it fixed tomorrow. It is an involved process that requires in-depth knowledge. I have done it many times and have/made the tools, but even the lifter "tray" is involved to make.

Before you relax, check your exhaust manifold. I bet it has shrunk enough to bend the mounting bolts on #1.6 and you need to replace it with an aftermarket 3-piece manifold before it breaks an ear off the head.
What special tools, I've had the cams out of two different 12 valve in the past few months, there are no special tools needed. Pulling the cam in your driveway can absolutely be done with basic sockets and wrenches. Its a pile of work for sure, but no special tools are needed. What IS needed is time and effort.

Here's a Cummins 12 valve cam sitting on the garage floor (cam gear still on it) that was removed with no special tools.

Automotive tire Floor Cross Gas Flooring

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Wish I knew one of you lived near Illinois. Then I could just pay one of yall instead of paying a commercial business and the mechanic would only get a portion. As well as yall know exactly what your doing.

Tear apart front of truck from bumper to block
Wooden Dowel Pins
Rockers and Push Rods removed
LP removed
Steering Pump
Wooden Dowels inserted into Push Rod cavity and locked in and raised and kept with zip ties
Remove Cam
Gear Puller for IP gear
2 Bolts between IP and Block for Gear Case

Doesn't seem difficult and alot less stressful then putting in 60lb valve springs just very very very time intensive. Just the know how of setting timing back nor the KDP kit to fix it nor having a garage. :rolleyes:
 
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Wish I knew one of you lived near Illinois. Then I could just pay one of yall instead of paying a commercial business and the mechanic would only get a portion. As well as yall know exactly what your doing.

Tear apart front of truck from bumper to block
Wooden Dowel Pins
Rockers and Push Rods removed
LP removed
Steering Pump
Wooden Dowels inserted into Push Rod cavity and locked in and raised and kept with zip ties
Remove Cam
Gear Puller for IP gear
2 Bolts between IP and Block for Gear Case

Doesn't seem difficult and alot less stressful then putting in 60lb valve springs just very very very time intensive. Just the know how of setting timing back nor the KDP kit to fix it nor having a garage. :rolleyes:
No need to remove the lift pump (assuming your "LP removed" above means lift pump).

Also if you pull the injection pump completely, which you already have to do most of the work as it bolts to the dang front cover you're replacing), you can just remove the tappet cover to get to the tappets and hold them up and won't need the wooden dowels. Also gives you the opportunity to replace the leaking tappet cover gasket.
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If the KDP fell out…. Well it’s already fixed.
No it isn't. The gear case needs the dowel for alignment, so when he replaces the case he also needs to install a dowel pin. The newer cases are designed so that the dowel can't work it's way out and eliminate the need for a tab. If an older case is used then of course it will need to be tabbed.
 
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The lp has to come out becuase the push rod rides on the cam. I can visuallize some type of lever device bolted to the front of the cam to make pulling and reinstalling the cam easier. It needs a little jockeying to put into place, very diffficult once the cam is over half way in. I replace mine by putting the engine vertical and lowering the cam into the block during a rebuild. The mechanic I know uses a long special rod when the engine is installed in the truck.
 
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The lp has to come out becuase the push rod rides on the cam. I can visuallize some type of lever device bolted to the front of the cam to make pulling and reinstalling the cam easier. It needs a little jockeying to put into place, very diffficult once the cam is over half way in. I replace mine by putting the engine vertical and lowering the cam into the block during a rebuild. The mechanic I know uses a long special rod when the engine is installed in the truck.
Oh yeah, duh, my bad. You're absolutely right, the lift pump does have to come out to get it's push rod off the cam.
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Here's what you would find and get charged just for the gasket. Not sure if this will help any.
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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Any advice on a website/company to purchase a new Timing Gear Housing & KDP Kit w/ Crank Wear Sleeve & Seal? I already have the new gasket kit that i bought locally.

I have found this from agkits.com. The overnight shipping will run me another $160 ontop of that. Never delt with them so any input is great.

But for some odd ball reason that website is on my banks blocklist of suspicious activity so I guess im back to square one of finding a dealer for those 2.

Prosource Diesel had one but must of sold between yesterday and today cause now its out of stock.

:mad::mad::mad:
 

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DAP has always been good to work with (and bonus, they're also a site sponsor).


PDP seems to be a little more expensive than DAP most of the time but they're still pretty dang good.


Looks like PDD even sells them.


All of the above companies are reputable, although I would call them to verify if they have one in stock.
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No need for a "KDP Kit" A Felpro housing gasket and seal set is about $35 at Autozone. Using a stock seal and a SKF speedi-sleeve # 99250 is considerably less expensive than the Cummins seal and wear sleeve combo. In addition, you can not buy just the seal for it down the road. They only come as kits. The dowell pin is Cummins part # 3900257. 2 pins, Cummins 5.9 dowel pins 3900257, killer dowel pin, genuine Cummins parts. | eBay If you need to tab it any scrap piece of metal will work. I used a piece of beer can for mine.
 

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Where ya at? I bought a KDP kit off amazon and it was here PDQ. I have a crank seal and wear sleeve I'd sell ya, but shipping would be an issue.
 

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How many miles on that truck?
My side cover gasket was leaking a LOT... The IP needs to be removed.. Truck had 320K on it at the time. I had the IP rebuilt and a new fuel noid ......

Just telling you what I did ... Nothing more...
 

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Before I paid $1500 for someone else to try and fic it. I would JB weld the busted piece back on the timing cover, and cut a sheet metal patch and jb weld or RTV that patch over top the repair.
And see how that worked.
Epoxy needs SPACE, so you have to grind on the broken part. open up the gap, it could be heavily beveled.

It looks to me like a sheet metal patch of a decent thickness similar to a computer case cover, could have a couple screws holes tapped into the timing case cover and the patch bolted on over top to make sure it stays put. If you think it would help.

I thought one of the pics show a slight bit of gear tooth damage.
 

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The circled area looks like another problem with it. It looks like the force of the pin going through the gears cause the backside of the case to buckle forward toward the gear
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The gear case supports the 44 pound injection pump and the I don't know how heavy vacuum/power steering pumps. You are asking for trouble by putting some kind of JB weld patch on it and expecting the gears of the pumps to stay properly aligned with the cam and crankshaft gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
How many miles on that truck?
My side cover gasket was leaking a LOT... The IP needs to be removed.. Truck had 320K on it at the time. I had the IP rebuilt and a new fuel noid ......

Just telling you what I did ... Nothing more...

It just turned 350k. Atleast put 500 miles a week on her atleast with an oil change monthly of 15w40 w/ K&N Oil FIlters as well as haul 2000 pounds of wood/material in the bed per week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Before I paid $1500 for someone else to try and fic it. I would JB weld the busted piece back on the timing cover, and cut a sheet metal patch and jb weld or RTV that patch over top the repair.
And see how that worked.
Epoxy needs SPACE, so you have to grind on the broken part. open up the gap, it could be heavily beveled.

It looks to me like a sheet metal patch of a decent thickness similar to a computer case cover, could have a couple screws holes tapped into the timing case cover and the patch bolted on over top to make sure it stays put. If you think it would help.

I thought one of the pics show a slight bit of gear tooth damage.

I thought about this maybe for 1 minute lol but as the picture shows below your message as well as GAmes comment below, that is the reason I didn't.

As far as the tappet cover goes i will be replacing it most likely this year myself. I know i basically got to take it apart again just minus pullin the cam gear. Wasn't trying to add on another mechanic 10 hours of labor on it.

Going to go drop off the Wear Sleeve to the shop and check on truck tomorrow to see if they have it preped for the new case coming in tom.

Will report back tomorrow sometime.

"To Easy"
 
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You might as well never change the oil if you use K&N filters. The key to engine long life is oil filtration, not replacing it. K&N is bottom of the barrel filtration.
With bypass filtration OTR trucks are going over 200,000 miles with out draining their oil, just changing filters. They have analysis done at about the 25,000 mile mark and if there are no red flags, carry on. I currently have a little over 32,000 miles on my oil and plan a sample at 45,000.
 
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