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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(KDP)Killer Dowel Pin

Leaking oil as a dodge does out the vent tube but this was different. 5 quarts per 50 miles. I didn't drive it like that but noticed it hopefully before it did to much damage.

Ive been told this pin keeps the timing in check and could have destroyed my rods/head. Not to sure how much of that is true.

I have replaced and done the following upgrades that might help the above:
3k/4k GSK
60LB Valve Spring Kit (Included all)
#0 plate
Rack shaved/full forward mod w/ washer swap(google it)
Star Wheel full forward
Lift Pump
Heater Delete from Lift Pump setup
8" Exhaust Stack


I heard a ticking about 3 days ago and thought it was my serp belt that was going bad until i started it the previous morning for 45 mins idle which I do every cold morning and came out and found 2-4 quarts of oil on the ground.

Come to find out i have cracked my timing case due to my KDP that everyone has warned 12v cummin owners about. After I got it to the stage I display the pictures of I have found out it was not only my front main seal that was gone but my kdp has destroyed/cracked my housing......

I have researched a little bit enough to know that the cam shaft needs to be pulled and lifters need to be set to be able to pull the cam shaft out to replace the housing. Also I have read some people doing redneck fix....

I need my truck operating like YESTERDAY!

Question....????
What would you do???

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ive read responses not necessarily from these forums but of people JB welding sections like this back in. Not sure if thats an option but Id figure id throw that out there.


Also I have done some sketchy **** to motors such as drop rods while changing springs and recovered them with magnets but nothing of the magnitude of having to pull a cam out of a diesel. If this is just time intensive work id be glad to dig into it if I have a better instruction scenario then the 1 bullsh*t a** video I reviewed regarding fixing this problem with wooden dowel rods that didn't show sh*t.

For the most part thou I believe I could replace the case or fix the case and nothing be wrong with the timing but then again Im a carpenter. All I know is I can buy a refurbished motor for $4500 so the repair on this cant cost anywhere near that especially when I have the capability to pull/drop a motor.
 

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You could clean it really good and try JB weld or actually welding the case.... Definitely not a permanent solution and its definitely going to leak.... its going to leak a lot less though and get you by...


If you can pull the cam gear its not too bad of a job.... pulling the camshaft is a can of worms though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Last thing I want is my truck sitting at a shop for months just like my Chevy truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You could clean it really good and try JB weld or actually welding the case.... Definitely not a permanent solution and its definitely going to leak.... its going to leak a lot less though and get you by...


If you can pull the cam gear its not too bad of a job.... pulling the camshaft is a can of worms though.

What would you expect for a mechanic shop to charge you to fix something of this nature?
Pull Cam
Pull Timing Gear
Pull Lift Pump
Pull Valve Covers n Keep lifters raised off of Cam
Replace Case
Put Cam back in
Put Timing Gear Back in
Put Lift Pump Back in
Put Valve Covers etcs back in

Ill put the rest back together after the case has been repaired.

And I buy all the parts..... If the labor has any idea of being over $1000 even thou I have it ill do it myself and learn off of the pros/documentary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just reread your post and you said I can pull the cam gear without pulling the cam shaft?

So within reason only thing Id have to do is figure out how to pull the IP and Cam gear off of the shaft to replace the timing housing?

If so where in gods name do I find this info out on how to do that and set that back properly??? Do things right the first time or dont do them at all is my moto.
 

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You could pull the gear... and heat it in an oven to put it back on... i definitely would want a helper with a pry bar in the cam so you dont knock the rear freeze plug out...

Not sure how hard to pull the cam is, but if you sceew up the dowels and a tappet falls into the pan you are screwed big time.

Do some research on google, theres a few threads on other fourms and youtube on the subject.

Few ways to go about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ruh Roh... I feel like im in deep sh*t...

I got the heart to do it just not the tricks which are sometimes needed in an operation as your making it sound.

Any knowledge before I send it off to a shop that works on 800+ hp diesels would be nice as im sure the shop will be pricey as hell and if anywhere near I might buy me a 2nd vehicle and rebuild my truck as its my gem....

Dont tell my wife :)
 

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Just pull the dang cam.

Wooded dowels or 12 pen magnets can be used to hold the tappets up.

Or, you could pull the P-pump, pull the tappet cover ( because it probably leaks oil too and could use a new gasket anyway), and use zip ties to hold the tappets up.
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Definitely a job you dont want to screw up... i heard guys unable to get the gear back on and you can knock the rear cam plug out....

Or not seat it all the way and it slips on the gear and wrecks the engine...

Might want to send it out...
 

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Its going to be difficult to do it without pulling the engine- if your not a mechanic.

it’s too bad you need the truck right away, in that case cant hurt to try and JB weld a sheet metal patch on and then maybe rtv sealant over that once cured. A friend of mine did that to his and it did slow it down enough he could still drive it. Good luck
 

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What is your skill level? To pull the cam you need to remove the radiator, air to air cooler and swing the AC condensor out of the way. To remove the A2A requires removing the front bumper. The injection pump, vacuum pump and lift pump need to be removed. With the injection pump removed I agree you might as well pull the tappet cover off to replace the gasket and with it off you can use clothes pins to hold the lifters up. It's a full days job for an experienced mechanic with a helper, so if you DIY plan on three or four.
 

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You said it yourself and that's the real answer. "Do it right the first time." Might as well bite the bullet and get a LOT of stuff done so it will last you another few hundred thousand. Why take the chance of messing something up and totally destroying that engine. While you have the IP off, replace that tappet cover and check your vacuum pump for leaks. Get the power steering cleaned out and refilled too. As much as I love working on my own stuff, I'd take it somewhere who will warranty that work. It's not worth the time and frustration you could be using to make the money to get it done.

Just my .02C and probably worth what you paid for it.

Mine was leaking about a gallon a month and thought I blew the front seal again, which I just replaced 2 years ago. Asked a friend of mine for a second opinion and it was the tappet cover. While the shop had it, I had them find and seal up all leaks. A bunch of other work done as well and now I know it's good to go for a LONG azz time. Threw me way behind at work but, it HAD to be done.
 

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And while your at it...and have all that pulled apart....FIX THE DANGED KDP! 😅
 

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And while your at it...and have all that pulled apart....FIX THE DANGED KDP! 😅
If the KDP fell out…. Well it’s already fixed.
 
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KDP should be the first thing to do / check when one takes ownership. . Always , no matter what the PO might have said .
 

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It does need to be replaced though. Without it, the case can shift and cause bigger issues.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got a shop coming to pick it up today.. 6 months ago or so during changing the valve springs over to 60lb springs to handle the 3k/4k kit I had dropped one of the valves down but I got it back out with a LONG magnet and I finished it. Not sure I want to go thru that again.

If yall had to put a price tag on the labor to replace the Timing Gear Case what would it be?

Oh yah and the truck just turned 350k miles.
 

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I'd bet over $1k for sure, probably over $2k. Parts are relatively cheap, but its a lot of time and labor is expensive.
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What are the shop rates for your area?

depending how many of these things (if any) the guy has done, I’d ballpark it at 16hr labour as long as he doesn’t find any other funny business while hes in there
 
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