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Discussion Starter #1
Still has at least 3/16 thickness of brake pad left.

Check it out, turn sound up high!


Did you know that the use 4WD hubs on 2WD trucks???

Splined inside for the axle shaft to engage it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, the inside pad is down to metal and the rotor is toast on the right side.

Worn down pad is rubbing too much for me to hear if the bearing is making as much noise as the left side, but I'm just going to replace it anyway.
 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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And on the bright side, you don't have to look around to figure out where you sat down the spindle nut from the last hub job
 

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So, autozone had the best price on the hub assemblies, but the local store was out so getting them shipped to the house overnight for free. O'Reilly had the rotor and I also ordered the new caliper slide pin kits and boots from them, the local store had that stuff but I'll just pick it up tomorrow.

My garage is full of junk so can't pull the truck inside, had just the nose up inside. We're fixin' have a turd floater come through so had to throw the wheel/tires back on the truck and back it out so I could close the doors.

Will get back at it tomorrow when I get all the parts.
 

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If your inside pads are worn down and it's causing metal to be removed from one side of the rotors, if it's a frozen slide pin due to dried up grease that's one thing, but I'd be absolutely sure before you put it back together that the piston isn't freezing up in the caliper.

I had the exact same issue as you a while back when I went to do pads and rotors, one side was terribly worn and it had eaten half of the inside of the rotor. When I pulled the caliper the pistons took a lot of force to move. Tore it down, cleaned up the bodies and piston bores, replaced the seals and pistons with a new kit, problem solved.

May not be your issue but I'd check while I was in there. Letting brake fluid sit for too long can cause it to absorb moisture, creating the symptoms I had when I bought the truck from the PO
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If your inside pads are worn down and it's causing metal to be removed from one side of the rotors, if it's a frozen slide pin due to dried up grease that's one thing, but I'd be absolutely sure before you put it back together that the piston isn't freezing up in the caliper.

I had the exact same issue as you a while back when I went to do pads and rotors, one side was terribly worn and it had eaten half of the inside of the rotor. When I pulled the caliper the pistons took a lot of force to move. Tore it down, cleaned up the bodies and piston bores, replaced the seals and pistons with a new kit, problem solved.

May not be your issue but I'd check while I was in there. Letting brake fluid sit for too long can cause it to absorb moisture, creating the symptoms I had when I bought the truck from the PO
In a floating caliper it is always the inside pad that wears out first since that is the pad that gets direct pressure from the piston.

On my truck, the inside pad is down to metal, the outside pad is almost there which is as it should be for the way they wear, so I doubt the piston is stuck, but will definitely be something I would check. And the piston has to be compressed to be able to load new pads into the caliper anyway, so that will be telling in itself.

Biggest concern over the right side being worn out first is that it is so much ahead of the left.

Anyway, we'll see what's up for sure when I pull it all apart tomorrow.
 

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In a floating caliper it is always the inside pad that wears out first since that is the pad that gets direct pressure from the piston.

On my truck, the inside pad is down to metal, the outside pad is almost there which is as it should be for the way they wear, so I doubt the piston is stuck, but will definitely be something I would check. in itself.

Biggest concern over the right side being worn out first is that it is so much ahead of the left.
Correct, but it shouldn't be wearing heavy on one side to the eye. Maybe measuring with a set of calipers you would notice uneven wear from initial piston side pad contact, but that pad will only rub for milliseconds until you overcome the force it takes to slide the caliper on the pins.. Which is very little pedal force.

Piston may not be stuck per say, but rather not retracting and allowing the pad to float away from the rotor.

Let us know what ya find! 50/50 chance!
 

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So, autozone had the best price on the hub assemblies, but the local store was out so getting them shipped to the house overnight for free. O'Reilly had the rotor and I also ordered the new caliper slide pin kits and boots from them, the local store had that stuff but I'll just pick it up tomorrow.
You planning on putting a For Sale sign in the window next week?
Why are you buying bargain basement Chinesium unit bearings. And only replacing the "bad" rotor with over a half million miles on the other one?

Dollar tripping over a dime...
 
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You planning on putting a For Sale sign in the window next week?
Why are you buying bargain basement Chinesium unit bearings. And only replacing the "bad" rotor with over a half million miles on the other one?

Dollar tripping over a dime...
You have to have the dollars to be able to spend them.
And, they're all made in china or india.
 

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Look at it this way, uncle sam’s incentive cash should cover it, and after a gazillion miles, you definitely got more miles out of the parts than most. Also it didn’t fail a long way from home.
 

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You have to have the dollars to be able to spend them.
And, they're all made in china or india.
Well, if you have a business that requires a truck and after 5 years of non-stop business use, don't have enough $ incrementally set aside or haven't planned for the cost of routine repairs, you'r either in the wrong business and losing money, have used your repair budget for non-repair items, or you're not running a business.

You know better, in that cheap parts are just that, cheap. Not a problem if you're willing to put in double the labor to fix again sooner than should need to be I suppose.

And weird, I just got a set of Timken bearings for one of my vehicles. They "say" made in USA on them, maybe they're lying. But that doesn't matter. If you don't know the difference or think they're the "same" then I'm sire they're the "same."
 

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Well hell guys, I'd be willing to get all the most expensive parts YOU'RE willing to buy for me...

So, as they say, put up or shut up.
 

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Well, if you have a business that requires a truck and after 5 years of non-stop business use, don't have enough $ incrementally set aside or haven't planned for the cost of routine repairs, you'r either in the wrong business and losing money, have used your repair budget for non-repair items, or you're not running a business.

You know better, in that cheap parts are just that, cheap. Not a problem if you're willing to put in double the labor to fix again sooner than should need to be I suppose.

And weird, I just got a set of Timken bearings for one of my vehicles. They "say" made in USA on them, maybe they're lying. But that doesn't matter. If you don't know the difference or think they're the "same" then I'm sire they're the "same."
I’d agree with this. I can imagine the business he is in is hard to make big bucks being the equipment required is what most of us have just because we want it. So I’m sure there’s lots lining up to do it. But if money can’t be made to properly maintain then, imo, I’d move on.

But it’s his money to spend on parts and he can buy what he wants for whatever reason he wants. I learnt quick and fast that cheap parts aren’t worth it for a working vehicle. My personal one can be down. But my working truck needs to work to make money for me. So it gets good parts.

And even on my personal vehicle I will not cheap out on hub bearings. Learnt that quick. Napa lower grade both lasted 3 months. Lifetime warranty ones have been on for 5 years going strong.
 

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Well hell guys, I'd be willing to get all the most expensive parts YOU'RE willing to buy for me...

So, as they say, put up or shut up.
Never have time to fix it right, but always have time to fix it again.
 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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How about we make a rule, once someone else has over 500k miles on their truck, then they get ti pipe in on whether or not the parts were to cheap to go on to his truck. FFS some of you have a harbor frieght jack and jack stand in your garage and you want to slam him for getting a product with a decent warranty (if not lifetime) ? realistically there are thousands of people running those exact same hubs without issues. It's not like he got on ebay and found the posting with the worst English and the lowest price. If you want to get onto a soap box at least make sure you are clean
 

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Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
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Also, i still stand behind my prior comment about you saving money by not having to buy the spindle nut, like most people would have to.

(my buddy almost had to a week or two ago, but thankfully he decided to replace his hub in my garage instead of his, so when it came time to pull the nut off i just reached into the toolbox and pulled it out. Somewhat convenient having a nice supply of tools)
 

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How about we make a rule, once someone else has over 500k miles on their truck, then they get ti pipe in on whether or not the parts were to cheap to go on to his truck. FFS some of you have a harbor frieght jack and jack stand in your garage and you want to slam him for getting a product with a decent warranty (if not lifetime) ? realistically there are thousands of people running those exact same hubs without issues. It's not like he got on ebay and found the posting with the worst English and the lowest price. If you want to get onto a soap box at least make sure you are clean
I was almost expecting him to make the 500 k mile comment. And that’s no excuse. If you run a truck you know that you replace stuff as preventative maintenance. The “ain’t broke don’t fix it” don’t fit when you run commercial trucks and this one is no exception. So that said there’s is an excepted lifespan on this stuff and milking it to the end isn’t what you should do. He’s lucky it went while close to home. Not 1000 miles away. Forcing him into a dealer or another shop and be at their mercy. And part of maintaining our safety certificate is having a plan in place for replacing items near the end of their life. If anything the 500k should be more reason to buy a quality product. His finances our none of our business. But he stated the reason for not buying was didn’t have the money.... so he made that part the business of this thread.

No one is slamming him. Just saying why buy junk. It’s in the best interest of the truck and him and his business.
And who cares if they were slamming. Aren’t we all men? Can’t someone take criticism anymore?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, it's not anyone's business but MINE, how I conduct my business and my life and how I spend my money.

As I stated before, I'd be happy to use all the bucks up parts that any of you would like to buy for me with YOUR MONEY.

Put up, or shut up.
 

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Well, it's not anyone's business but MINE, how I conduct my business and my life and how I spend my money.

As I stated before, I'd be happy to use all the bucks up parts that any of you would like to buy for me with YOUR MONEY.

Put up, or shut up.
To be fair, it was you who said you didn’t have the money. Don’t sh!t on the guys who are only offering advice you asked for.
 
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