[guinness765]

posting up a vid here for more exposure. some of u im sure have seen it in my other thread.

for those who dont kno...

i installed studs, springs, and had injectors tested at Superior injection and turbo, they installed the 100hp tips (bosch oem extrude honed) and tested injectors after the tips were installed. all checked out

put truck back together and it started fine and seemed to idle fine. put it in drive and it loped, put it in park and it stopped, then in drive and it loped again. figured maybe it was air in the system:confused013: BTW i did torque the connector tubes except for #6 but i do not have a starting issue or any white smoke at all

drove the truck lightly until it warmed up, hammered on it and blew a boosted connection. refastened..then did the same thing. then left the gate on 45psi till i got new clamps.

since then ive driven the truck a bit and here are my issues.

-seems a bit down on power but niot much, still builds boost easy
-lopeing, especially at first start only when put in drive or reverse. It now lopes when i decelrate to under ~20mph. tuning DOES affect this. its worse on the higher tunes
-heavy hazing on light acceleration and all the time on the highway (mayb this is normal for the bigger tips)
-lots of valve clatter/timing clatter under 10psi of boost (timing is down to lowest level on smarty) i have to check my lash again too
-when i rev it in drive RP hangs and comes back down all choppy and bouncy...best way to describe it is it sounds lik turbo bark out of my tail pipe and continues for a while after i rev it and truck surges during this time


i think thats it for now heres the vid. tell me what ya think

 

[triton]

does it do it with the Smarty installed ?

What does the RP say when you put it in gear to get the lope ?

Make sure your RP plug/s are install right. It's easy to get them backwards.

You could try decreasing / increasing your FP to see if that effects anything.

 

[Walker]

I'd try what triton says first. Have you done any mods to the cp3? Just seems really high rp at idle, maybe the fca is bad?

 

[Walker]

With #6 connector, you can take one bolt out and loosen the other 2 to get the shield out of the way so you can torque it. One of the holes are slotted which allows you to do this.

 

[DieselPlower]

Sorry i cant help but that lope sounds awesome.

 

[monster diesel]

Subscribing

 

[sotyphoon415]

Its LOPE not LOP haha. Subscribing, and good luck.

 

[sotyphoon415]

I'd try what triton says first. Have you done any mods to the cp3? Just seems really high rp at idle, maybe the fca is bad?

I would do a FCA swap, with known good FCA. Or if one is not ready available disconnect your FCA and make sure your RP goes up, should almost max out at idle. BUT the best test is to just swap, luckily its easy peasy.

Your RP is high at idle, that suggests to me that one or a few injectors are not firing as desired causing you to have more RP then normal. Once its in gear and a load is supplied to the engine the lope is then noticed, which also to me indicates and injector or 2 is not doing its job. Just one injector firing wrong could cause that, its not a true "mis" but there is a flaw with at least one of the cylinders being under powered causing the lope. Your haze looks fine so maybe one is not injecting fuel at all..or enough.

I have seen a engine run on 3 cylinders with a capped rail and it shocked me how smooth it was for being ran in that condition. Obviously it was not what we would call smooth but for firing on only 3 cylinders it was impressive.

Sucks but I think your gonna have to test those injectors...

I was born under power lines though, take my info how youd like.

 

[SEAN06]

I can't help ya with the problem,but all i gotta say is that your truck sounds amazing.just imagine what people would think when they hear that dude.:thumbsup:

 

[wwm]

subscribing

 

[guinness765]

does it do it with the Smarty installed ?

What does the RP say when you put it in gear to get the lope ?


You could try decreasing / increasing your FP to see if that effects anything.

RP hardly moves when its lopeing in drive. It bounces alot after reving in drive.

yes it does it with smarty installed. and its a bit sporatic after the truck is warmed up. so far it always does it when the motor is cold and sometimes when at operating temerature. it seems to be getting worse the more i drive it

yesterday i drove it till it was warm and then tried the stock tune, it wouldnt lope but it did have alot of hiccups on acceleration. im gona try a cold start on stock tune to see what happens. also tried Sw4 and it sorta loped but not bad. at this point it seems directly related to the amount of fuel i got

Make sure your RP plug/s are install right. It's easy to get them backwards.

I checked yesterday. seems on my truck it only gos in one way and looks like its lining up right. also looks like someone made a paint mark on it so that the paint line would line up too

I'd try what triton says first. Have you done any mods to the cp3? Just seems really high rp at idle, maybe the fca is bad?

cp3 is stock

i forgot to mention that my block at time of video was cold enough to cycle grid heater so when it cycles it affects RP and that may have been why it was up to 10K.

it is always high now though. reads 8K at idle and used to read ~7500. I have autometers which some say read high but still looks like i got an increase of 500psi at idle after the new tips

I would do a FCA swap, with known good FCA. Or if one is not ready available disconnect your FCA and make sure your RP goes up, should almost max out at idle. BUT the best test is to just swap, luckily its easy peasy.

Your RP is high at idle, that suggests to me that one or a few injectors are not firing as desired causing you to have more RP then normal. Once its in gear and a load is supplied to the engine the lope is then noticed, which also to me indicates and injector or 2 is not doing its job. Just one injector firing wrong could cause that, its not a true "mis" but there is a flaw with at least one of the cylinders being under powered causing the lope. Your haze looks fine so maybe one is not injecting fuel at all..or enough.

I have seen a engine run on 3 cylinders with a capped rail and it shocked me how smooth it was for being ran in that condition. Obviously it was not what we would call smooth but for firing on only 3 cylinders it was impressive.

Sucks but I think your gonna have to test those injectors...

I was born under power lines though, take my info how youd like.

thanks for the info...as said above RP is a littl ehigher in vid due to grid heater cycling but still even when grid heater is not my "normal" idle at RP is 8K which i believe is pretty high on an 05

But im confused as to why RP would be higher if and injector was not firing right???? edit*** oh, maybe if they are not delivering enough fuel?

I may buy an FCA and try it out. if it doesnt work i put the stocker back in and have a spare sinec eventually i will need it anyway

I can't help ya with the problem,but all i gotta say is that your truck sounds amazing.just imagine what people would think when they hear that dude.:thumbsup:

LOL if only it was supposed to sound like that




EDIT** another ?.....is it possible for the crossover tubes to "click" into place but not be properly aligned with the injector? (i resued my tubes, first time theyv been out)

I have to check my injector wiring again as well. I think i did everything right but does anyone have a detail on the colors starting at front and working back for a 2005?

Anything else to check b4 i take em out? its not the end of the world if i have to take em out. but i would hate to take em out and have em tested again just to find out they are good and its something i messed up on install.

 

[cumminsrocks]

My first question is did it do it b4 your injector swap? Any of it? If not, than thats the problem. We tend to second guess the crap out of our selves for no reason sometimes. I installed 6 new injectors the other day in a n engine, and it knocked and banged do hard on startup i was scarded pistons met valves. I had done a lot of other work as well. All it was was one BAD injector out of the box! My .02. Id pull em and get em checked, or put your old set back in if you have em and see if any of that helps....:confused013:
ALSO my grid heater affects rail very little when cycling. Stays almost spot on 7k

 

[WVcummer]

^^^^ This

IMO why go throwing parts at it?

I would first make sure the valves are we they need to be just make sure.
Pull the injectors send them out again,if they are good then I would replace the connector tubes when the injectors went back in.TQ everything down and go from there.If that don't change anything then I would start at the rail and work my way to the cp3 "FCA"

I don't know if you could swap injectors and use a set from an 06 but mine are laying here and I would not have a problem letting you try them..7 holes with the puck and collar.

I would also take the smarty off complete and report back

 

[CantStopCummins]

^^^^ This

IMO why go throwing parts at it?

I would first make sure the valves are we they need to be just make sure.
Pull the injectors send them out again,if they are good then I would replace the connector tubes when the injectors went back in.TQ everything down and go from there.If that don't change anything then I would start at the rail and work my way to the cp3 "FCA"

I don't know if you could swap injectors and use a set from an 06 but mine are laying here and I would not have a problem letting you try them..7 holes with the puck and collar.

I would also take the smarty off complete and report back

good info right there :thumbsup:

as much as it sucks to deal with, remove the injectors and get them tested or take up this man on his very generous offer

 

[guinness765]

My first question is did it do it b4 your injector swap? Any of it? If not, than thats the problem. We tend to second guess the crap out of our selves for no reason sometimes. I installed 6 new injectors the other day in a n engine, and it knocked and banged do hard on startup i was scarded pistons met valves. I had done a lot of other work as well. All it was was one BAD injector out of the box! My .02. Id pull em and get em checked, or put your old set back in if you have em and see if any of that helps....:confused013:
ALSO my grid heater affects rail very little when cycling. Stays almost spot on 7k

Nope! only time it EVER loped was a few times when it went into high idle by itself...some other 3rd gen owners have had the same experiance....it NEVER loped when i put it in drive, that is something that started immeadiatly after the injector install.

also this is my "old set" they were tested with the new tips on and checked out. thats why its hard to believe one or more went bad bc they wouldve had to go bad on startup....or superior injection didnt test them right, which is also hard to believe bc i had no reason to think they were bad i just tested them to be absolutely sure.

oh and thanks for the grid heater info. also whats everybodys RP when u put ur trucks into drive? 10K or less? that could help

^^^^ This

IMO why go throwing parts at it?

I would first make sure the valves are we they need to be just make sure.
Pull the injectors send them out again,if they are good then I would replace the connector tubes when the injectors went back in.TQ everything down and go from there.If that don't change anything then I would start at the rail and work my way to the cp3 "FCA"

I don't know if you could swap injectors and use a set from an 06 but mine are laying here and I would not have a problem letting you try them..7 holes with the puck and collar.

I would also take the smarty off complete and report back

Hey WV thanks for the offer!!:thumbsup: I will def take u up on it if after i have my injectors tested and reinstall, I still get the lope. ill throw urs in and c what happens...

i have the option of having them tested again just for the cost of shipping so i think thats my first move if i take em out.

i get what ur sayin about throwing parts at it, the FCA is the only part i would do that with bc mine will go bad eventually so i wouldnt mind having one ready to go in the future. at the same time it would be pretty weird if teh FCA went bad at the exact time i installed the injectors

I got out of work late last night so no time to mess with truck. if i get home early enough today im gona load stock tune and see if it will lope at cold start when put in drive.

-adjusting/checking valves had to be done again anyway so i plan on doing that b4 i take out injectors.
-if i dont notice anything wrong with my install while taking injectors back out then i will be shipping them out.

 

[DODGE74]

Mine idles about 7-7,100 psi. If I remember correctly stock is around 50mpa = about 7,250psi.

 

[mikmaze]

remove rp gauge from the mix if it is plugged between factory sensor and ecm, when in doubt remove stuff that could be causing interference

 

[kingey]

Damn man, it's about time you got a break with this project
Hope you get it sorted soon, fingers are crossed for you.

 

[sotyphoon415]

It's good to have a spare FCA around. No loss there.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app that won't let me upload pics...

 

[guinness765]

remove rp gauge from the mix if it is plugged between factory sensor and ecm, when in doubt remove stuff that could be causing interference

ok easy enough. u mean just disconnect electrical right?

Damn man, it's about time you got a break with this project
Hope you get it sorted soon, fingers are crossed for you.

tell me about it hahaha