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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already have ISSPRO EV Boost/EGT installed and the EV2 i just received seem different. They are for fuel pressure and tranny temp. The instructions are vague at best and I have a few questions:

1) Where does the Banjo bolt tie into the CP3?

2) Is there any existing location for me to screw the sensor into my transmission that doesn't involve me tapping the pan or buying the new hot-line? :confused013:

I'm hoping to get these installed tonight with the tools i have! Any pictures would be extremely helpful!
 

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You can tie a banjo bolt to the bottom of your stock fuel canister, or get an aftermarket replacement top for the cansiter, it will have a port for the sensor.

Locating the tranny temp sensor if you have an auto tranny requires a replacement line that has a port fot the sensor. To the best of my knowledge, your tranny does not have any place for a sensor. If you have a standard tranny, you will need to pull one of the PTO covers and have a bung welded into it, or you can get a set of fast coolers, they have a port.

I hope that information is helpful.


CD
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so is that basically the same as using a small hose clamp to tie the sensor to the hotline?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am just hoping there is a test port or something that i"m missing to tap into....
 

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To get the most accurate temperature you really should get a replacement line or put a T in the stock line with a sensor port in the "T". This location reads the temperature of the tranny fluid as it leaves the tranny enroute to the tranny cooler. This will yield the hottest readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well after all that i found out that OCDIESEL sold me the wrong size Banjo bolt! ARGH :whip::whip:

Ok so trying to et my gauges to power up is killing me. I know i have the dimmer tapped properly, but do I need a Power, 5v, and dimmer? I connected the guage power to the pink with a yellow stripe, dimmer is orange with brown stripe, they are grounded. what else do i need to do, these things are driving me crazy!

If someone could break down the wiring I would REALLY appreciate it! thus far, i feel i have spend $300 on two gauges that i cant get to work... what's more frustrating than that???:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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The dimmer should have an or/br wire, blk wire, orange wire, and red wire with 2 unconnected ends. The dimmer or/br wire goes to or/br wire on dimmer switch, blk wire is grnd, orange wire from dimmer to orange wire from gauge, and one end of the red wire to a key on power source and the other end to the red wire from the gauge. Also, make sure the gauges are wired correctly.
 
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I have the install instructions from ISSPRO for wiring THEIR dimmer switch. Got them e-mailed to me from ISSPRO. If you want a copy of those instructions, PM me and I will e-mail them to you.

CD
 
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Attempting to attach the released version of the lighting harness instructions. I apologize for these not being included in the kit, apparently there was a snafu on this end and they have not been included until now (thanks to CD for bringing this to my attention).

On edit:
Damn website would not accept a 114kb pdf file, says it is too big despite the limit being listed as 3.8mb. Instead I posted the rough draft Word document that CD has. If anyone wants the final version, please drop me an email at michael at isspro dot com.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 

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Here's a quick summary of the wires to be connected (assuming you want to use the factory dimmer circuit but use the dimmer harness to dim the gauges below the brightness that you would otherwise see compared to factory gauges).
Dimmer Harness wires:
Red wire (on short end) - switched (and fused) ignition input
Black wire (on short end) - good clean chassis ground
Orange/Black wire (on short end) - factory dimmer switch
Red wire (on long end) - pin #1 on gauges (can daisy-chain from one gauge to next)
Black wire (on long end) - pin #2 on gauges (can daisy-chain from one gauge to next)
Orange wire (on long end) - pin #3 on gauges (can daisy-chain from one gauge to next)


Pins 4, 5 & 6 are for the sensors on the gauge (pin #6 not used on non-pyro temp gauges), just insert the sensor harness wires as described in the instructions. The 5V wire (pin #4 on pressure gauges) just runs from the gauge to the sensor, to provide its power supply. The 5V supply comes from inside the gauge and only runs to the sensor.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sounds like my gauges were shipped incomplete.... My tranny has a 8ft harness with a green and black wire and a connector for the sensor on the end. My fps has an 8ft. Harness with a green black and orange/yellow stripe. I have no instructions nor do I have "a long side of a red/blk cable" or any oter cable at all. I used some 16 gauge wire I had to connect the first pin in the harnesses to the pink wire with a yellow tracer like on my EV gauges, I ten wired the ground pin under the dash and the dimmer pin
to the orange with yellow tracer on the headlmp switch that my Ev are wired to. Do I need an addditional power connection or am I SOL? Lol and thanks for your responses guys!!!
 

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sounds like my gauges were shipped incomplete.... My tranny has a 8ft harness with a green and black wire and a connector for the sensor on the end. My fps has an 8ft. Harness with a green black and orange/yellow stripe. I have no instructions nor do I have "a long side of a red/blk cable" or any oter cable at all. I used some 16 gauge wire I had to connect the first pin in the harnesses to the pink wire with a yellow tracer like on my EV gauges, I ten wired the ground pin under the dash and the dimmer pin
to the orange with yellow tracer on the headlmp switch that my Ev are wired to. Do I need an addditional power connection or am I SOL? Lol and thanks for your responses guys!!!
Oops, I should have been more specific - the harness I was referring to above is the optional dimmer harness, R72022. If you are just wiring off the factory dimmer and don't need any special additional dimming you just supply your own wire for Ignition, Dimmer, and Ground. It is best to use 18 gauge TXL-jacketed wire (which the connectors are made for). From your description above, the gauges should function. Are they working at this time?

Here is a troubleshooting document: http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTING DOC/ISSPRO_EV2_PERFORMAX_Troubleshooting.pdf

Thanks,
Michael Pliska
 

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Michael.

Did you get the e-mail reply that I sent you? I had a couple questions about missing parts from 2 new gauges I recently received.

CD
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oops, I should have been more specific - the harness I was referring to above is the optional dimmer harness, R72022. If you are just wiring off the factory dimmer and don't need any special additional dimming you just supply your own wire for Ignition, Dimmer, and Ground. It is best to use 18 gauge TXL-jacketed wire (which the connectors are made for). From your description above, the gauges should function. Are they working at this time?

Here is a troubleshooting document: http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTING DOC/ISSPRO_EV2_PERFORMAX_Troubleshooting.pdf

Thanks,
Michael Pliska
Michael, thanks for taking my call. Out of curiosity, if I use my own wires for power, what is the orange wire on the fuel sensor for? does it only connect from the sensor to the gauge or do i have to splice it with something along the way?
 

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OCVeloMan.

Maybe it would be better to look at how EACH gauge is wired for function.

Terminal 1 RED -provides +12 volts of power to the gauge, from a switched connection.
Terminal 2 ORANGE -provides lighting power to the gauge, from the dimmer switch.
Terminal 3 BLACK -provides the ground to the gauge.

Every gauge needs these 3 things to turn on, be lit, and be grounded. Once you have the first gauge wired to that configuration you can daisy-chain the power, lighting, and ground to all other gauges.


Terminals 4,5 and 6 are where the gauge receives input from the sender harness for each individual gauge, and only wiring from the sender/wiring harness go to each gage, they do not daisy-chain to others of similar color or terminal. Whether it be boost, EGTs, fuel pressure, rail pressure, tranny temp, and so forth, and each gauge has its OWN harness that will contain either 2 or 3 wires depending on the gauges needs.

So the wiring from the engine compartments senders harness utilizes two or three of terminals 4,5 and 6. The sender wiring harness for each of the gauges seems to be also standardized in the following color configurations, but it is not daisy-chained like the power and lighting as the information to drive the gauge function is specific to the gauge and it's corresponding harness to the sender where it's input is derrived.

Terminal 4 YELLOW or RED w YELLOW tracer - +5 volts - which is generated internally by the gauge to the sender, its stepped-down internally in the gauge design.
Terminal 5 GREEN - the sensor itself
Terminal 6 BLACK - ground from sensor


When you add into the mix of all this wiring the additional wiring from the remote dimmer switch (p/n R7022) for additional dimmer control beyond the trucks dimmer control, it really only affects the first gauge, then the sequential daisy-chain wiring of the +12 volt power, lighting/dimmer, and ground circuits is the same as described above in the terminal 1, 2 and 3 positions.


When you do not purchase the additional dimmer control, you will need to provide the red, orange and black wiring for those circuits. Use 18 gauge wire, the connector is designed for that gauge.


I hope my explination is as clear as mud and helps you to understand how the TWO segments of the 6 terminal connector work when it comes to overall power and lighting and then also the connections of the wire harnesses for each gauge.


CD
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OCVeloMan.

Maybe it would be better to look at how EACH gauge is wired for function.

Terminal 1 RED -provides +12 volts of power to the gauge, from a switched connection.
Terminal 2 ORANGE -provides lighting power to the gauge, from the dimmer switch.
Terminal 3 BLACK -provides the ground to the gauge.

Every gauge needs these 3 things to turn on, be lit, and be grounded. Once you have the first gauge wired to that configuration you can daisy-chain the power, lighting, and ground to all other gauges.


Terminals 4,5 and 6 are where the gauge receives input from the sender harness for each individual gauge, and only wiring from the sender/wiring harness go to each gage, they do not daisy-chain to others of similar color or terminal. Whether it be boost, EGTs, fuel pressure, rail pressure, tranny temp, and so forth, and each gauge has its OWN harness that will contain either 2 or 3 wires depending on the gauges needs.

So the wiring from the engine compartments senders harness utilizes two or three of terminals 4,5 and 6. The sender wiring harness for each of the gauges seems to be also standardized in the following color configurations, but it is not daisy-chained like the power and lighting as the information to drive the gauge function is specific to the gauge and it's corresponding harness to the sender where it's input is derrived.

Terminal 4 YELLOW or RED w YELLOW tracer - +5 volts - which is generated internally by the gauge to the sender, its stepped-down internally in the gauge design.
Terminal 5 GREEN - the sensor itself
Terminal 6 BLACK - ground from sensor


When you add into the mix of all this wiring the additional wiring from the remote dimmer switch (p/n R7022) for additional dimmer control beyond the trucks dimmer control, it really only affects the first gauge, then the sequential daisy-chain wiring of the +12 volt power, lighting/dimmer, and ground circuits is the same as described above in the terminal 1, 2 and 3 positions.


When you do not purchase the additional dimmer control, you will need to provide the red, orange and black wiring for those circuits. Use 18 gauge wire, the connector is designed for that gauge.


I hope my explination is as clear as mud and helps you to understand how the TWO segments of the 6 terminal connector work when it comes to overall power and lighting and then also the connections of the wire harnesses for each gauge.


CD
As always, extremely helpful! i will give it another shot and let you all know how it went. Found out i was sent a boost bold instead of a Banjo Bolt. so waiting on that from Mike at Isspro who was also very helpful. Don't know what i would do without this community! :yourock::yourock::yourock::yourock::yourock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
SO after messing with it again last night, I have decided to give up and Order the ISSPRO Dimmer Harness. You win this time you stupid gauges, but ill be back in about a week with a new plan of attack!
 

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You can make your own dimmer switch. a 1k to 2k ohm pot is ideal. I could only get a 5k ohm pot from radio shack, which is way more than needed resistance but it still works the same. $5 from radio shack.
 
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