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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've installed suspension systems before but drilling the frame for a bracket is a first for me. I'm not concerned about having a new hole, the frame already has plenty. I am concerned about making sure I use the jigs correctly to get them in the exact right spot of course.

The instructions recommend using a right-angle drill for these holes. Wondering who has done this, how tight the fit was under there? I'm looking at a couple Milwaukee M18 cordless options, and I'm not sure which would be needed for the 3/4" hole saw bit that is provided.

Carli Suspension Radius Arm Drop Brackets — Instructions

If the first drill will work, then I can save a bunch of money there.

M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless 3/8 in. Right-Angle Drill (Tool-Only) — $129

M18 FUEL GEN II 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Hole Hawg Right Angle Drill (Tool-Only) — $299

Any other advice you might have on this task is appreciated as well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do have one of those somewhere from when I was doing some wiring between tight wall studs. Was thinking an actual drill would give me better control. That's speculation though.
 

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Iam talking about when it's on the drill...my drills any are at least 6;in in depth...what's the over depth on the drill?

Or does the drill connect on the bottom?
 

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damn, i just got my carli kit for my ‘22 today…i didn’t no i would have to drill etc. no biggie but definitely a longer install compared to my ‘16
 
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What about just renting a nice powerful corded option from Home Depot or your store preference for the day? Smaller hand tools can't be that expensive to rent for 1/2 day.

** Just looked. Makita corded 1/2" right angle drill. It's showing up for me at $17.00 for 4 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Never thought about renting, I enjoy having a nice collection of tools haha.
@5.7 Hemi -- thanks for providing those measurements!
Another option suggested was to just use a low-profile right-angle air drill, they are on clearance from HF for like $35 or something. I have enough compressor to run that.
Thanks for the rental suggestion though, I will see what is available.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I opted for the Hole Hawg. Possibly overkill but a beautiful tool. I can't say if the 3/8" M12 right angle tool would have worked without having tried it.
I don't have my compressor set up yet, so air tools were out.
Thought about rental, but, I'm glad I didn't. I don't like feeling like I'm up against a clock when using a tool. I can go at my own pace that life throws at me.
 

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damn, i just got my carli kit for my ‘22 today…i didn’t no i would have to drill etc. no biggie but definitely a longer install compared to my ‘16
Did you install the radius arm drop brackets? Mine don’t seem to line up right it seems like they changed something on the ‘22
 

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Did you install the radius arm drop brackets? Mine don’t seem to line up right it seems like they changed something on the ‘22
i did, and i did have a very slight issue on the passenger side, one of the short bottom bolt holes was off from the factory hole by about 1/16”, but with a tiny bit of sanding and a little “motivation” i was able to get it in, using the threads on the bolt to get it in. definitely not ideal but wasn’t awful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I had the same issue on my '21 3500, it's the crossmember bracket. See my post here:

I reached out to Carli with some pictures to get their take on it.
They were great to work with and responded that they have now redesigned the passenger's side bracket to allow 5/16" more clearance on the crossmember bracket to alleviate the issue. I don't know if it's specific to 2500 or 3500, or '21 or '22.
 
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