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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to start a thread kinda aimed at people looking at a 6.7 HO. I was once one of you and wanted to set some facts straight and give my opinion on the truck vs the other Diesels.

First just to give you insight on why I chose the dodge over the rest and what I use it for.
- Bought the truck to daily drive and tow my tiny Seadoo speedster 200 boat( I know it's very heavy...lol)
- Second I chose the truck because the interior and how bad these trucks look with a 6 inch and 37s. The ford was nice but that engine gives me nightmares lol. Also I owned a 6.0 so I practically own stock in ford.

Next I'd like to point out my first hand on the truck.
- truck needs to be deleted to really breathe and run like a true cummins.
- the 68rfe that I read so much about and how weak it is. Well I've ran wild since deleted(1100kms). And it hasn't slipped at all or shown any signs of stress now at 17,000.
- one of my last points and prolly one that will cause lots of debate. These trucks can run with the new and old Duramax and powerstrokes. When properly equipped. These trucks are monsters with a set of nozzles and a 66-72mm turbo. Anything bigger and there insane.
The simplicity of this engine makes me feel good all the time. Just think what kinda of shart you would be into blowing a hg on a lml or a turbo on a 6.7 stroker looking at massive bills, so right there this truck and engine wins every time.
Hope that helps with any doubts for the possible new cummins owner !

If anyone has any questions on anything shoot me a pm!

Thanks



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not to start a pissin contest but under most circumstances there is no need to do studs on a dmax i've run twins pushing 60psi boost with zero issues now if your doing a full on $15k motor build then yes stud it the average modder no need and you'd be hard pressed to blow up the stock garrett turbo that comes on them would have to try and really work at it i know those motors inside and out and yes i agree they are more complicated and a little harder to work on but like anything else you have to learn the tricks and i just don't have anything to say about the powerjoke
 

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Sure the Dmax might not need studs but you can't compare to the 6.7 they would never handle 60 psi on stock studs lol


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I recently purchased a 2012 2500 6.7 mega cab laramie 3,000 miles now. Traded in 06 5.9 quad cab. I think as far as pedal to the metal power the 06 made more power.

My question how do I know if my 2012 is and 6.7 or 6.7HO?
 

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I recently purchased a 2012 2500 6.7 mega cab laramie 3,000 miles now. Traded in 06 5.9 quad cab. I think as far as pedal to the metal power the 06 made more power.

My question how do I know if my 2012 is and 6.7 or 6.7HO?
If its an automatic and a 12, it's an HO. Manuals did not gt the HO motors
 
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Yes is is an AT 4x4 any way to vin check the trans and see if it is the stronger one? I think I have read there are tow different transmissions they use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cux211- the duramax is a great motor just was saying in my mind with the new lml being over priced and it having all this new technology (piezo injectors, cp4) that's so expensive if the wrong hands touch it scares me. They make amazing power but with the extra 10 grand you spend you could have kick 6.7


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to answer ocpoolguys questions...

All auto transmission cummins pickups from halfway throught 2011 to today are the same.
There is no difference between a pickup HO and non HO engine.
All 2011.5+ cummins 68RFE come with a new torque converter.

The only reason the non HO motors make less torque is the tune. Run the same tune from the same vendor on an HO and a non HO motor and you will get the same WHP... That is if a tune is advertised to pickup 150 tq on a non HO motor, it is going to pick up about nothing on an HO motor.
 

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I'm sure the 6.7's are like the 5.9 in that you got to work 'em hard for 30k miles to get them broke in. John Holmes, TRD writer, explained in his "Diesel 101" sessions that working them hard is the best way to break them in. Every winter I get my '07 back and it has more power than it did when it left the barn in the Spring.
 

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I think you going to your 68RFE isn't going to survive that long. If you looked inside the transmission, you can see why. If your going to do those mods, I would look into at least doing a 47/48re swap, then start with the power, but at that point I would just buy an older truck that already has the 47/48 transmission and install the 6.7L:stirpot:

The 4th gen weigh a bunch more than my 2nd gen, a 6.7L would just be a hot ticket for it.:thumbsup:

68RFE will survive abit of abuse on a stock truck, but that only around the low 400's for rwhp. Those mods you should be around 600-700rwhp (or more) fairly easy.

As for head studs, just buy the 625's, they aren't that much money as they used to be. Torque the studs up to 170ft*lbs, which is way more than the stock bolts. I've done a few head stud installs into 4th gen trucks, found a few of the head bolts loose right from the factory and the valve lash to loose side expecially on the exhaust side.
 
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