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In tank lift pump and external pusher pump?

5703 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Shainer
New to Diesels and new to me 2002 2wd. 115000 miles.

I've been studying the lift pump low preasure eat your injection pump issues.

I had thought I had an external lift pump but was corrected today and advised it was internal.

Rig works just fine as far as I can tell and I have no idea if the original lift pump has been changed since it is a used truck. I am getting ready to use it to haul some large trailers from Oregon.

So here is the real question and I guess it might apply for either internal or external stock lift pumps.

Can I just put an inline electric fuel pump on like a holly or a carter or any after market electric fuel pump and not have to pull the tank to remove or modify the in tank pump. Run them both using the external electrict fuel pump as an additional pusher pump with out causing any problems. Will it work if the internal pump goes bad - will it allow fuel to be sucked up and through the lines if the internal pump in not running?????

Any Ideas?? How about putting an additional inline fuel filter on - like one of the large gas FI type of filters will that help or hurt or do no good??? Any Ideas and any help appreciated.

LBM:hyper::peelout
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I would just do it right the first time and go for a AirDog or FASS pump and be done with it...

My AirDog 150 write up...
AirDog Fuel Pump

The AirDog 150 will replace everything... Fuel lines (to 1/2" lines), fuel filter (with a 2 micron and water separtor), and Lifetime warranty you cant get with a holley or carter pump.
Thanks - this answered at least some ??- I think.

You had to put in a seperate "Draw Straw" as you call it I'm guessing because the stock set up would not draw enough volume or would not allow an external draw to work??????

Besides the time I'd guess this cost's 700-800 $$$ or so?? or am I low?? Took how long - -a day or so to do it??

You are probably right to do it correct first but I have to balance some finances and time with the chance of losing the Injector Pump at some point. And since I can not see or feel any lift pump issues right now I think I am trying to provide some cushin until I can do it right.

If I can do a simple install for an external pusher pump for $50.00 or so ( whatever I can find at local parts at 5-7psi or 30 psi range) that will work for awhile and then do it right later it will get done what I need to now.

I am printing your instructions though because that seems to be a very good way to end up.

LBM:thumbsup
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Thanks - this answered at least some ??- I think.

You had to put in a seperate "Draw Straw" as you call it I'm guessing because the stock set up would not draw enough volume or would not allow an external draw to work??????

The stock pickup tube and fuel lines is only 6mm ID and can't move enough fuel to satisfy the Cummins requirements. So the 1/2" fuel lines are double the ID diameter to the stock.

Besides the time I'd guess this cost's 700-800 $$$ or so?? or am I low?? Took how long - -a day or so to do it??

I'll PM you the details...

You are probably right to do it correct first but I have to balance some finances and time with the chance of losing the Injector Pump at some point. And since I can not see or feel any lift pump issues right now I think I am trying to provide some cushin until I can do it right.

Well the stock lift pumps (external) tend to have a problem with the plastic hub breaking out of the rotor. This will cause a sudden failure. As for holley pumps they tend to fail like the cater because they are design very similar... Just the pressure regulator is external on a holley and carters are internal.

If I can do a simple install for an external pusher pump for $50.00 or so ( whatever I can find at local parts at 5-7psi or 30 psi range) that will work for awhile and then do it right later it will get done what I need to now.

You don't want to exceed 20 PSI MAX pressure and you don't want to fail below 10 PSI MINiMUM pressure.

I am printing your instructions though because that seems to be a very good way to end up.

LBM:thumbsup
Thanx... :thumbsup
Not to highjack this thread. But how does the raptor and airdog pump kits eliminate the OEM lift pump? Do they come with fittings that allow you to connect the rubber line to the OEM metal fuel line that leads into the fuel filter?
Not to highjack this thread. But how does the raptor and airdog pump kits eliminate the OEM lift pump? Do they come with fittings that allow you to connect the rubber line to the OEM metal fuel line that leads into the fuel filter?
It come with all new 1/2" fuel lines to replace the stock 6mm ID steel lines... All hardware and fittings included...:thumbsup






That what it looks like...The last pic is of a Vulcan Big Line Kit I install before the AirDog....
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6
It come with all new 1/2" fuel lines to replace the stock 6mm ID steel lines... All hardware and fittings included...:thumbsup






That what it looks like...The last pic is of a Vulcan Big Line Kit I install before the AirDog....
How difficult is it to remove the stock lift pump with a raptor unit?
How difficult is it to remove the stock lift pump with a raptor unit?
Leave the stock pump in the tank and disconnect the fuel line from it... Install a draw straw kit (as shown above) and a Raptor pump and your done...

You might ask if a Big Line kit comes with it...:w:
Leave the stock pump in the tank and disconnect the fuel line from it... Install a draw straw kit (as shown above) and a Raptor pump and your done...

You might ask if a Big Line kit comes with it...:w:
I don't have the in-tank pump, only the block mounter carter.
i put in the vulcan relocate / big line kit and it cured my low fuel pressure problem
I just added a second Carter on the frame rail for $90. Seems to work just fine. The two run off a relay from the factory signal to take the load off the factory relay inside the PCM. I am kind of skeptical of the REQUIREMENT of 1/2" lines, though. At least until you have SERIOUS power. More ISB (24 Valve) Power

Personally I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling about the in tank factory unit, but if I had one, I would simply add a relay in the wiring to take the load off the pcm relay, open up the banjo bolts, and install a pressure gauge.
Need help? I have a 2001 5.9 new lift pump by filter.The truck will stall if I start up move right away ,if I wait then runs just fine Please help me
Help me Please. 2001 dodge 5.9 Truck quit just after starting .Turned over and starts up
done this a few times .So changed lift pump( still on Engine ) fuel filter . Is my problem the filter in the tank please help
I just added a second Carter on the frame rail for $90. Seems to work just fine. The two run off a relay from the factory signal to take the load off the factory relay inside the PCM. I am kind of skeptical of the REQUIREMENT of 1/2" lines, though. At least until you have SERIOUS power. More ISB (24 Valve) Power

Personally I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling about the in tank factory unit, but if I had one, I would simply add a relay in the wiring to take the load off the pcm relay, open up the banjo bolts, and install a pressure gauge.
What do you mean “seems to work just fine” Do you have a pressure gauge on it? If not you are flying blind, and may not be any better off than just the factory LP. While power adders do stress the factory LP, there are MANY stock trucks that have eaten IP and LP’s. Don’t go with gut feelings here. Know what your truck is running.

Help me Please. 2001 dodge 5.9 Truck quit just after starting .Turned over and starts up
done this a few times .So changed lift pump( still on Engine ) fuel filter . Is my problem the filter in the tank please help
Please don’t hijack somebody else’s thread. Start a new thread complete with your truck details and error codes.
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