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Discussion Starter #1
It all started with a slipping clutch at 97k miles on my 2016 3500 mega cab SRW. While I wasn’t crazy about the CP4 I was pretty set on ordering a new truck until my clutch started slipping. Put in a cheap replacement and trade it or make all the work worthwhile and install a dual disc so I can piss even more money away on deletes and power adders? Clearly I chose the latter.

At that point I was committed to keeping the truck so a couple months later during lay off time I decided to make it my perfect truck while freshening a few things up. I’m not good at taking pictures while I’m working on stuff I just like to get things done but I’ll post up what I have and put a list of everything added.

I didn’t care for one full suspension setup from any particular company so I picked what I liked and pieced it together, mostly Carli but I think radius arm drops are stupid and even with their fabricated radius arms you still have to use the drop brackets. Hard pass on that. I went the extremely unpopular direction there and went with DOR adjustable bent long arms. It’s an adjustable 4 link and I don’t think there’s anything better out there especially for the cost, DOR is a garbage company with a well deserved terrible reputation but the long arms are a solid product and probably my favorite part of this whole setup.

Suspension and steering:
-Carli 3” front coils
-Carli 1” rear add a packs
-Carli tuned fox 2.0 shocks all around
-Carli track bar
-Thuren sway bar
-DOR gear box brace
-2019 mopar drag link
-New mopar tie rod assembly
-Carli ball joints

I’m also regearing to 4.10s and adding a power wagon locker up front. No sense in half assing things so I’m installing a 1 piece passenger side axle shaft and yukon free spin hubs with new AAM axle U-joints and I welded a Thuren truss to the front axle as well. My mig welder power source bought the farm 1/3rd the way through so I had to use my tig power source and finish the truss off stick welding it. Less then ideal and time consuming but worked fine all the same.

I have a pretty serious addiction to lighting and have been spending the last week or so wiring everything up. I drive hours of desolate no cell service deer and elk infested rural highways a day typically in the dark so I use my auxiliary lighting daily. I have a backwoods rear bumper with 4 light pod holes and a road armor Titan II up front with 4 pod holes and I also made and welded mounts to the lower bar for a 40” baja designs hi-power light bar. The light bar will be wired to the high beam switch and armed with a factory auxiliary switch so the bar only comes on with high beams when the switch is turned on.

My back bumper has 4 rigid D series pro fog lights and since I have more then enough forward lighting my 4 front bumper pods are diode dynamics SS3 pro SAE fog lights. 2 in selective yellow wired to a factory auxiliary switch and 2 selective yellow pods with clear lenses that put off a really nice 4k white color tied to the factory fog switch. These are the best and brightest SAE fog lights on the market with a sharp cutoff. Should give me useful fog lighting for all weather conditions.

I also installed SDHQ pillar light brackets topped with Baja designs XL80s with spot lenses and Baja designs S1s white flood angled off the sides of the XL80s toward the ditches.

When I tackle the EGR parts I’ll be installing a GDP factory grid heater delete intake plenum, GDP intake horn along with their billet grid heater that replaces the throttle valve. I also have an edge CTS2 with multiple EAS sensors to install at the same time. I might sell the CTS2 and buy a CTS3 but they both use the same EAS attachments, it’s a really great setup.

Now for the pictures. I just had my bumpers, bottom of the truck up to the first body line inside and out, behind the fender flares and the flares themselves coated with colored line-x. My trucks maximum steel metallic and I went with a 2nd gen charcoal grey color that I think looks awesome. I got rid of the chrome a long time ago for factory sport headlights, mirrors, badges, tinted the tailights and got a paintable factory grille I had color matched years ago but never installed. I’m going to have it wrapped in 3M clear film before installing.

I bought a ballistic fabrication fabricated front diff cover that I’ll be running the locker wires through. My buddy is machining me a wire gland that I’ll tig weld onto the top corner of the diff cover to pass the wires through. Mixed in the pictures is a covered auxiliary switch I’m using to activate the locker. I wanted something covered so the locker couldn’t be accidentally activated going down the road. Most of what you see are the race car style toggles but I really like this switch. It should blend in well with the black laramie dash, I’ll be putting it and my csp4 switch in the “L” shaped panel that’s above the ignition.

I also had my hubs and dial bezels powdercoated black which will blend in with the wheels and rest of the truck nicely, I’ll post more pictures of that stuff once I get it installed.

Im currently running 37x12.50R17 toyo RTs on 0 offset wheels and have about 2.5” of clearance to the control arms at full lock. I’ll be moving to a 37x13.50R18 tire with +20mm offset wheels and should still have roughly 1” of clearance.

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Discussion Starter #2
More pictures

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Discussion Starter #4
With this new forum setup it’s nice being able to post pictures straight from it but it seems to mix them all up.

For my uses and needs this is the perfect setup, retains all factory payload and towing while riding and performing in all situations great. My truck sees a lot of nasty right of ways and miles of very rough dirt fire roads sometimes daily. The only thing I think could be improved upon is king shocks, Carli full leaf packs and Carli long tracks air bags but all those come at a very high cost and I’m just not sure if it’s worth it.

The only other things I have planned for the truck is a pusher add a turbo compound setup that I’ve had for a few years now and next winter when I’m laid off I plan to stretch my frame for a long bed. After that it will indeed be the perfect truck.

some of the pictures below are of my engine bay wiring. I used a power distribution block with 2 separate bars meant for positive and negative but I ran all grounds to the chassis and ran power to both bars via factory auxiliary switch input. One side is the 4 ditch lights and the other side is the 4 rear bumper lights. The big wires on the battery are for my Warn 16.5TI-S

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Discussion Starter #5
Finished wiring and installing the 4 pod lights in my front bumper. All 4 are diode dynamics SS3 pro SAE fog lights in selective yellow but I swapped clear lenses onto one set of them to get a 4k color temperature. The outer white ones are wired to my factory fog switch and the inner yellows are wired to one of the factory auxiliary switches. They’re the brightest sae fog lights on the market and have a great cut off. The whites alone make the factory projector headlights look like running lights.

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very nice i did the same line x. slightly different bumper though
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. Yea I dig your truck, same color but a longbed
 

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yea, looking at a clutch in the next month or so
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the southbend half organic half ceramic and really like it but if you’re not going past stock air and fuel the organic dual disc is a great option
 

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yea thinking organic/organic
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can’t go wrong there, good all around clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cut a hole in my ballistic fab diff cover and welded on a wire pass through my buddy machined for me. The plastic portion splits in half and seals with O rings, I’ll use a little silicone on it as well. Also cut the gay skull off the front of the cover.

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Also played with some of my new lights last night too, this is the 4 rigid pods in the rear bumper, all are fog pattern. They light up the tree tops behind my house.

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thank you for cutting that skill off!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Got most everything else wrapped up on the truck. 4.10 gears along with the front E-locker, 1 piece passenger axle shaft, Carli balljoints, yukon free spins and the CTS3 are all in.

Also removed the under hood parts and installed a GDP grid heater delete plenum plate, intake horn and their billet inline grid heater. I have the edge EAS pyro in the back block off plate and a boost sensor in the back of the intake horn. Also have a tranny temp probe I just have to run the wiring to. The EAS system is truly awesome.

The switch and dial above the ignition are the covered locker switch and the CSP4 dial. I had the Yukon hubs and dial bezels powdercoated black and I’m glad I did. I’m waiting for the grille to get clear wrapped and have my 40” baja Designs light bar to install and that’ll be about it.
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Looks like its ready for a trade with the keyless option!!!!

With my comment, you got an awesome truck!!! If I did that to my truck, my wife ( as many of us know, being a smart [email protected]@) would say now that I've got all that done, time to trade!!!!

Looking good there brother!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like its ready for a trade with the keyless option!!!!

With my comment, you got an awesome truck!!! If I did that to my truck, my wife ( as many of us know, being a smart [email protected]@) would say now that I've got all that done, time to trade!!!!

Looking good there brother!!!!
Thank you, In my opinion it’s the perfect do all truck. It’s just at home offroad as it is towing a heavy load.

Fortunately I dictate everything vehicle in the household including my wife’s. I traded her outback in on a new half ton Sierra last year and she never wanted to drive anything more then a mid sized suv because it’d be too big. Well one trip to Walmart in her new ride and she forever became a truck girl.
 
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