Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve changed everything that has to do with the power steering, Vac Pump, PS pump, Hydroboost, lines, steering box. While bleeding it I’m able to build up a pretty stiff pedal, but as soon as I start it up I can press it as far as it will go easily.

I cracked the return line to the hydroboost while it was running and it poured fluid so I’m assuming the ps pump isn’t shot but I don’t know much about Hydroboost, out of the 5 01’s I’ve had this is the first I’ve had to mess with it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,843 Posts
What was the problem you were trying to fix? The brake pedal is still connected to the master cylinder so the question would be is, how well are your brakes working?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What was the problem you were trying to fix? The brake pedal is still connected to the master cylinder so the question would be is, how well are your brakes working?
Dang, forgot to mention I changed that too, it’ll stop but the pedal returns super slow and had basically no pressure behind it when the engine is running. The brsked aren’t very good but it stops, no drop on brake fluid
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,843 Posts
Sounds like you have air the brake system. Granted, it can be more difficult to get it out with the ABS system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like you have air the brake system. Granted, it can be more difficult to get it out with the ABS system.
Well, as I lost the pedal I also felt the steering getting harder. Had great brakes before that and lost no fluid when the pedal got soft. I don’t mean a little mushy I mean Basically on the floor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,843 Posts
From the FSM...

BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake application
with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blue2ndgen

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
Bleeding PS and hydroboost needs to be done while running. Bleeding brake lines can be done eihter way or with a simple or fancy pressure bleeder. PS, Vacuum is not related to brakes at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bleeding PS and hydroboost needs to be done while running. Bleeding brake lines can be done eihter way or with a simple or fancy pressure bleeder. PS, Vacuum is not related to brakes at all.
I changed the vacuum because it had an oil leak and one of the teeth broke of the internal part, can’t remember what it’s called.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bleeding PS and hydroboost needs to be done while running. Bleeding brake lines can be done eihter way or with a simple or fancy pressure bleeder. PS, Vacuum is not related to brakes at all.
Every other link on here says to bleed with the front end jacked up, key in the on position and engine off but idk, I only know what I’ve read on here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,843 Posts
To properly bleed the hydroboost system, you place the front axle on jackstands because its easier on everything to not have weight on the tires when performing this.

With the engine running, turn the steering wheel L/R lock to lock about 5 -10 times at a normal turning speed. DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKES DURING THIS.
Shut off the engine and check the PS fluid for level and aeration, topping it off if its low. Give it about an hour to sit and then repeat the process. Check again and if its low then repeat after another hour. The hydroboost should be good to go by then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
That is all fine. Personally, I have done just fine on the ground but I have stock narrow tires. I have no idea who told him to do it with the engine off for hydroboost as that accomplishes NOTHING. Fluid has to be pumped through both PS and hydroboost. They both bleed out quite easily really. Checking a couple of times and filling is important. Just as pumping up brakes while running before taking off is important after collapsing calipers durning pad change.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blue2ndgen

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another thing to mention I bled the brakes after changing the master cylinder and that’s when my steering started acting up again. Everything in the hydroboost is flowing good, I’ve cracked all the hoses and checked, no leaks anywhere. No clue and it’s hard to get in anywhere trustworthy around here right now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,843 Posts
Explain in detail what its doing right now thats the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
Have you driven it around the block at least? Does it have drum or disc in back? Please explain exactly in detail how you bled the brakes, what did you use, How did you do it, which wheel first and so on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I started rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger then front driver side. Didn’t rush through it, I took my time. Then I noticed once I started driving again my steering was tough when I’d pull out of a tight spot and have to cut it deep, brakes stayed normal for the most part at that point. Then I started it the next day and took off and as soon as I went to hit my brakes the pedal went about as low as it could go before they caught. I pulled over and checked for leaks but The reservoir hadn’t even dropped any. The last time I drove it they did stick a little letting off at a red light so I need to bleed them again when I’m finished. Another thing, when I had been trying to bleed the PS I was pushing the brake intermittently because the steering box came with instructions that said to do so, I’d done it the way you said before but it took a while so I thought maybe that was the trick to it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
I can not see anything you are doing wrong with the hydroboost and steering. It all pretty self bleeds with use like you did. I was thinking that brake should be bleed at closest to farthest , opposite what you did. Maybe you should do closest first. while running. Did you do it by had/foot or did you use a bleeder tool? Running or not? Did you have somebody pump it up and then open and close the bleeder while still squirting out?
Rear drum or disc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rear drums, truck turned off, had someone pump the brakes and closed the bleeder when the fluid slowed down.

just bled the power steering jacked it up,10-15 cycles, let it sit for an hour 3 times, drove it about 6 miles. By the time I got back I stopped on the blacktop and the steering was getting real hard both ways after about half a turn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
Sometimes thy are hard to turn on the black top sitting still especially if you have bigger or softer tires

I may know your soft pedal issue.. not saying your did but if by some chance you did not close it quick enough bleeding air got back in. But I wonder if you need to adjust the rear brakes by hand again. jack it up and put in neutral TC or drop the rear drive line. Adjust rear brakes until they stop the wheel from turning by hand then back of just enough they are not dragging. Very often they get too far out of adjustment and it will cause soft pedal and slow return. The self adjusters are junk and may as well not even be there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah I’m pretty sure there’s air in there, I let off the brakes right before all this started and it felt like it was catching. The steering wasn’t just a little hard, I expected it to feel tighter with the new redhead box but it felt like before I even bled it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,500 Posts
You did do several lock to lock tuns or the wheel didn't you? Is it possible you kinked a hose and broke loose the inside layer of rubber in any of the lines? A few have separated before, both dfront brake hoses and steering hoses have done it . Not common but possible. I am thinking rear adjustment most likely or air.
The steering should be bled if you did some lock to lock truns and pumped the brakes a few times, assumnig resivoir is full.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top