[BlueDog Ram]

Hey guys, I just finished up the balljoint work on my truck (what a PITA if they've never been touched in a long while in the salt belt!) and had a few questions for ya..
1) It still seems like the tires "shift" when hitting a bump, like I can feel things moving that prolly shouldnt be.. hubs? I know the hubs need to be replaced, but just wanted to be sure I didn't screw something up with the balljoints..

2) Tie-rod also needs replacing, culprit #2?

3) I was going to order the hubs from rockauto.com but they offer 2 different hubs (so does autozone) both for the same axle, just different weight amounts.. my truck being the gasser it is, Im guessing would use the smaller of the two and the diesel cousin the bigger? Any way to find out?

4) Where would you guys get the hubs and parts from?


I know this is probably in the wrong section so I'll apoligize now, move it if you must!

Thanks in advance! You guys are the best resource I've found for Dodge trucks in general yet! :thumbsup

 

[jb86]

i just installed ems offroad part time (Warn) hubs, timken bearings, ect. i have a picture of the old hub bearing unit in front of the new hub. the width of the original is about 3 1/2" bearing, new unit is 5 1/2" width w/tapered wheel bearings (and service able). great kit for $900 (with rotors) and save almost 2 MPG. i love the look of my hubs, it's not like many others. anyway, there are differences between OEM (and OEM quality) and some cheap units. i saw a thread where a guy found OEM hub bearing units (they are not made by dodge) for just over $200 each. only reason Dodge uses these hub bearing units - saves labor to build, not for quality.

 

[95 SLT]

Hey had a few questions for ya..
1) It still seems like the tires "shift" when hitting a bump, like I can feel things moving that prolly shouldnt be.. hubs?

I feel the exact same thing.
It's the lower control arms.
The Caster setting is to negative (towards the rear) and loose.

PDR sells adjustable lower control arms which is my very next desire.

Recently I installed the DDS stearing stablalizer with good results.
But I still feel that loose axle-tire shift on the bumps. I know it's the lower control arms because the adjuster cams have moved back on me again.
It's a weak design.

Hub bearings are the last thing to be looking at. There heavy duty and good for 2-300,000 miles. Unless they grind or growl forget them. $$

 

[lance0730]

I feel the exact same thing.
It's the lower control arms.
The Caster setting is to negative (towards the rear) and loose.

PDR sells adjustable lower control arms which is my very next desire.

Recently I installed the DDS stearing stablalizer with good results.
But I still feel that loose axle-tire shift on the bumps. I know it's the lower control arms because the adjuster cams have moved back on me again.
It's a weak design.

Hub bearings are the last thing to be looking at. There heavy duty and good for 2-300,000 miles. Unless they grind or growl forget them. $$

I ll have to disagree...i just replaced mine @ 114000. jack the truck up and try to move the front tires side to side and up and down...if they shift...you need new bearings on that particular side. mine probably went out sooner than most with the 38's but they can fail earlier. your other question about the weight limit deal is if you truck is 8800 gvw buy those. if it is i believe 7500?? then buy those. that info can be found on your door jam.

 

[95 SLT]

I ll have to disagree...i just replaced mine @ 114000. jack the truck up and try to move the front tires side to side and up and down...if they shift...you need new bearings on that particular side. mine probably went out sooner than most with the 38's but they can fail earlier. your other question about the weight limit deal is if you truck is 8800 gvw buy those. if it is i believe 7500?? then buy those. that info can be found on your door jam.

Well I did the steering knuck ball joints on mine too. Front end is still clunking.?? Make sure the cam washers are full forward on the lower control arms. Mine was clunking and felt loose as soon as they fell back again.
The process of elimination gets expensive. But at least when done all components are new and good for the next multi mile.:beer

 

[lance0730]

Well I did the steering knuck ball joints on mine too. Front end is still clunking.?? Make sure the cam washers are full forward on the lower control arms. Mine was clunking and felt loose as soon as they fell back again.
The process of elimination gets expensive. But at least when done all components are new a good for the next multi mile.:beer

if you dont want to do it for atleast 100K, try calling Luke's Link Home Page they make a kit for our trucks that others on here swear buy. ontop of track bar rebuild kits, they do all tie rods connecting rods and pivot joints for less than 300 bucks.

 

[Dual K20s]

Heck for $430, you could get rid of that stupid y-link setup Thuren Fabrication- Crossover steering kits and be like the 98-99 style

 

[lance0730]

Heck for $430, you could get rid of that stupid y-link setup Thuren Fabrication- Crossover steering kits and be like the 98-99 style

Ive seen that kit...looks like a cool setup

 

[95 SLT]

Heck for $430, you could get rid of that stupid y-link setup Thuren Fabrication- Crossover steering kits and be like the 98-99 style

The way it should be.
The Y set-up is mechanical fodder.

The crossover system is very simiar to the first gens. This looks much more stable.