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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I'm looking for ways to make my truck more powerful, it's Dodge Ram 3500 diesel 12v 1996.
I searched for different chips and programmers and I couldn't find any for 1996 model, they seem to be available for trucks only after 1997.
What are other ways to make it faster/quicker. I want to make it accelerate fast. I also tow a 21ft boat at summer and I can't get on freeway up to 70mph fast. What parts should I look for to replace/upgrade?
I believe it's all stock right now. It doesn't make any black smoke, only gray smoke if I push it really hard, is gray smoke good or bad?
:confused013:
 

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Well to start you off in the right direction:
1. Being that your truck is a 12valve, it`s mechanical injection, so chips and programmers can`t do anything to our trucks. 1998.5 is when the 24valve was first introduced.

2. As for making it faster and quicker, I started with a Cold Air Intake (more air flow), then a 4 inch straight pipe (turbo-back) exhaust system and a TST Power Kit (with the number 12 fuel plate and the boost control elbow) to list the main ones.
Never hurts to check over (or have a shop check over) your fuel system and all air hoses, etc to make sure there are no obviously bad ones.
Gauges are a FOR SURE thing to put in. Fuel pressure and pyrometer are... well needed, and boost pressure is good to have.

Some other guys have more experience in what works good for towing, I just keep playing around, buying parts, and tuning just for fun. My truck blows some decent smoke, hoping to get injectors soon as well.

Hope this helps you.

BTW: Welcome to the forum.
 

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before ya crank it up get a gauges. pyro , boost and fuel. slide yer fuel plate ahead and turn up the star wheel or stuff in a different grind fuel plate. a 3k governor spring kit and boost elbow. if its a stock auto these mods are able to kill it from just plain to much power . Dodge watered the cummins down pretty good to save the rest of the truck. 4" exhaust and a bhaf is a good upgrade too
I can't over emphasize the importance of gauges when you start cranking it up tho, it is easy to melt it if ya get to carried away.
here is a link tyhat shows a little more. CumminsDatabase.com :: Turning Up A P7100 Pump
 

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I slid my stock fuel plate forward and a boost elbow and it made a big difference in towing, I can just put the cruise on and it pulls the hills no problem, thats with a 4000lb camper and pulling a trailer with 5000lbs. I've also got a #10 plate in my tool box when I brake down and get my gauges.

Kevin
 

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Just bought my 97 and it supposedly has the stock fuel plate slid forward and i can see the afc housing is slid ahead full forward with 4 inch straight exhaust. Definitely a big difference over bone stock 12v's i have driven. Pours quite a bit of coal when you tromp it or lug it.
 

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Do some searchs for sliding, grinding or removing the plate, injectors, and delivery valves all will give your truck more fuel ! Add Upgraded intake,or BHAF and wastegate adjustment or plugoff, then with exhaust flow improvements you need auto trans upgrades, ready or not !
1.You could slide your stock Plate, crank your starwheel on the AFC housing - free of charge...
2.Remove the Catalytic converter and replace or remove the muffler. 4" exhaust would be morebetter....
3.Upgrade torque converter and valvebody and any other wearable items in your trans; Think BILLET: bands, input shaft, 1-2 lever, and flexplate.
4. Then you are ready for more power! DDP injectors, Delivery valves, Turbo, GSK..... it is an sickness:whip:HP TorQue BoOst


Well then you drive someones 5speed with a double disc clutch and you start manually shiftin your auto like a manual flipping your lockup switch like a light switch!:hehe: Sorry not all results are comparable 2 mine !
The last time I got pulled over I begged the cop to give me a warning, please! " If I get another ticket, they'll take my license !" He ran my record and said "you weren't lyin" "slow it down!" As my teenage daughter broke out in laughter and told my sorry story for days! Thanks again officer friendly!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks, that's a lot of good info. I got this truck with bad transmission, then took the transmission to the repair shop and they actually upgraded the torque converter too, they said that they put a rebuilt one and it is better that the stock one, also changed many burned disks in rear part of transmission, so I think it's pretty good upgrade to the transmission? :$:

What do I get from removing the muffler and catalytic converter?
 

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Thanks, that's a lot of good info. I got this truck with bad transmission, then took the transmission to the repair shop and they actually upgraded the torque converter too, they said that they put a rebuilt one and it is better that the stock one, also changed many burned disks in rear part of transmission, so I think it's pretty good upgrade to the transmission? :$:

What do I get from removing the muffler and catalytic converter?
better air flow and you get to piss off your naibors at 4 in the morning:lol4:
 

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so I think it's pretty good upgrade to the transmission?
It may be better, but how much? You'd have to find out exactly what all they did and what the parts are that they put in. Chances are it's "better" than stock, but you'll still have to be careful with how much power you put to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It may be better, but how much? You'd have to find out exactly what all they did and what the parts are that they put in. Chances are it's "better" than stock, but you'll still have to be careful with how much power you put to it.
I can't really tell what I have not seen. These shop guys lie a lot, or at least I think so. They show me on paper what they replaced(don't know where's that paper, it was 1.5 years ago), but they don't show the parts that they took out of my transmission, they showed only few pieces and the rest they say they couldn't find. The only thing for sure I know is that they fixed the tranny and replaced the torque converter.
How much is too much power and what are the limits for stock truck? How much can I get(max) if I slide fuel plate and put in BHAF?
 

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stock trans in a 94/95 they SAY you can run up to about 220 hp . I killed mine at 84k with a bone stock 160 (twisted off input) my fault, I was goofin around .......but it shows the power is there stock. when i rebuilt i went with billet shaft, high quality frictions, a tfod kit and a good converter.
i dont think im breaking 300 yet and am hoping i did enuff to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Quote from TST
TST recommends NOT exceeding 230 HP and 605 lb.-ft. on '94/'95 Ram automatics, 250 hp and 635 lb-ft on '96/'98 Ram automatics, 270 hp and 675 lb-ft on '94/'95 manuals, or 280 hp and 685 lb-ft on '96/'98 manuals.
So my limits are 250/635. My stock 96 automatic is 180/420.

And this shows that if I'm going to buy TST Power Kit then I should buy #8 or maybe #6, correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How about transmission temp gauge? Is it needed on no?
Because Ebay sells Triple gauge pods, it has pyro, boost, and trans. So I think there better be fuel gauge in place of trans.
 

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I would go with the tranny first. Chances are, your fuel pressure is fine. Most only use a fuel pressure guage to diagnose a problem. I have a fuel pressure guage on mine, but it is coiled up under the hood, and only check it periodically. The tranny would let you know if you are getting it hot towing.

As far a cheap/free mods, slide your plate and afc housing forward and turn your star wheel will make a big difference from stock. The BHAF will cost about $80 for the filter and prefilter cover. 4" exhaust does wonders for keeping your egt's down. That's about all your close to stock stock trany will take. You might get away with a different or custom ground fuel plate, but I wouldn't go too big.

Do a search for free mods, bhaf, and also for fuel plates and you will find most of the info you need to do it your self.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Chuck
 
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