[Baron85]

I have a friend at work that wants to race. I have done a few pulls from a roll but never really launched the truck from a stop. Any tips and tricks on launching with a manual transmission?

Second question, I have a Valair dual disc organic which they state is not for racing. Should I avoid launching or is that more for constant race use and a handful of launches won't hurt it?

 

[24hrsparkey]

Sounds like this could make a noise and get expensive with a 7400# truck.


Signed an old guy .

 

[utahtrapper]

I would say Do Not Do It

 

[Babin Farms]

Not going to win a race against an automatic anyways. I would not even try no matter how fast you think you can get through the gears.

 

[Baron85]

The other guy is driving a first gen Subaru wrx with a stick

 

[Babin Farms]

WRX: Curb weight 3,272 to 3,455 lbs and a transmission that's not a HD trans for pulling. Consider yourself beat before you get 50ft. If you had an auto it would be a different story.

 

[14cummins]

If its a stock bug eye you have him no problem. Yeah he might get the launch but most guys are afraid to launch those stock 5-speeds in the WRX's hard. If you try a launch don't dump the clutch load the drive train a little first, staying in 2wd might not be as fast but you should spin instead of making pieces. Once you get into 3rd and 4th you will pull ahead.

 

[vreihen]

WRX: Curb weight 3,272 to 3,455 lbs and a transmission that's not a HD trans for pulling. Consider yourself beat before you get 50ft. If you had an auto it would be a different story.

I bet that I could beat a 2002 WRX to 60 feet with my G56. Engage 4x4 high range, put the gearbox in 3rd gear, mat the throttle, and side-step the clutch pedal to launch. I guarantee that some part of your truck will make it to the 60-foot mark before the Subaru...but that part probably will not be connected to the rest of the truck when it gets there!

The one thing that a G56 is *not* is a sequential racing gearbox.....

 

[Baron85]

I have a Ford ZF6 transmission, but yes, it is not a fast shifting race transmission. I do how ever have more confidence in it holding up than the g56

 

[Fsh4lf]

Personally, I dont race my g56. 1. Its a truck and I built it to tow not race. 2. The g56 is one of the slowest shifting trans I have ever operated. Altho lots of people are racing them

If you must, main thing is preload the driveline. Dont just floor it and side step the clutch. That can only cause two things.. shock load and damage or wheel spin. Wont win any races with either.

To properly launch a manual, select the appropriate gear, prob 3rd but 2nd might work, depends on your hp. Start to release clutch until it begins to engage. Then raise rpms to desired engine speed while holding the pedal at point of engagement. This is pre loading the drivetrain and building boost. Start to release but not all at once, let it start rolling a bit then let it up quick the rest of the way but still not a side step. You didn't hear this from me tho.. lol.

And no, your dual disc organic faced clutch is not built for this, nor will it like it. It should however not disintegrate immediately. That said, it would be pretty easy to cause a few hot spots and induce some shudder on take off. Anyway hope that answers your question. Launching a manual correctly will take practice if you want to do it, and understands that things can get damaged or broken. The only manual I "launch" is in my mistang gt with a performance racing clutch.

 

[Babin Farms]

He's got a ZF6 acording to his sig. but yeah, same result


I already found out what happens searching "launch"

 

[24hrsparkey]

Dang how thin and cheap can they make the transfer case casting . A washing machine trans might be thicker .. lol

 

[Babin Farms]

Sounds like you already had your mind made up to race it regardless of the answers you got from the forum. It's your truck and you can operate it as you wish.

The only thing I ask is that you follow up with this after you race him with the results and please have pics of the carnage

 

[lpennock]

Use e-brake to hold truck while loading drive train. Pull release and then hammer throttle. Good luck shifting fast enough to miss rev limiter.



Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[Baron85]

I am pretty set on racing. I haven't put all this money into the truck to drive like a grandpa. I also don't want to tear it up by being stupid. If something breaks I will upgrade. I have other vehicles to drive.

As far as gear to launch in, I read 2nd or 3rd gear launches. Are they counting Low as first or 2nd gear as first. I normally take off in second not low.

 

[Gildo]

Let's look at "all of this money" you've put into the truck and be realistic about what it'll get you, horsepower and speed.

leveled on 35's (no help at all, even a hinderance)
5" exhaust with FTE resonator (no help at all)
ARP head studs (no help at all)
crower 110# valve springs (no help at all)
7/16 manton push rods (no help at all)
BBI .5 (no help at all)
GDP 2 micron fuel (no help at all)
valair street dual disc (no help at all)
Edge CTS2 monitor (no help at all)
ZF6 swap (no help at all)

None of the above is going to give you more speed or horsepower. I'm not trying to bash you, but none of the above will make you go faster.

The following I have no experience with:
EFI liive from Calibrated Addiction
HE300vg

My point is you said that like it's a built truck, it's not. And with your inexperience drag racing it's a recipe for disaster.

Good luck,
Gil

 

[Baron85]

Let's look at "all of this money" you've put into the truck and be realistic about what it'll get you, horsepower and speed.

leveled on 35's (no help at all, even a hinderance)
5" exhaust with FTE resonator (no help at all)
ARP head studs (no help at all)
crower 110# valve springs (no help at all)
7/16 manton push rods (no help at all)
BBI .5 (no help at all)
GDP 2 micron fuel (no help at all)
valair street dual disc (no help at all)
Edge CTS2 monitor (no help at all)
ZF6 swap (no help at all)

None of the above is going to give you more speed or horsepower. I'm not trying to bash you, but none of the above will make you go faster.

The following I have no experience with:
EFI liive from Calibrated Addiction
HE300vg

My point is you said that like it's a built truck, it's not. And with your inexperience drag racing it's a recipe for disaster.

Good luck,
Gil

I do appreciate the feedback, and sorry for coming off as bragging like it's built. It is not a race truck, I know that. It is not crazy fast, I know. But I have put a fair amount of money into things to make it hold the power it has with room to grow.

I am more asking on technic advice, I do know the risks of hot dogging and am willing to roll the dice but want to do it the proper way to minimize the risk if you will.

I don't plan to ever professionally race the truck but want to have fun with what I have. I am picking up a used set of MPI compounds next weekend with a stocker/475, also planning on doing traction bars to help protect the rear end and drive shaft as much as possible.

 

[Gildo]

Baron, thanks for not taking my post as a bash. You sound level-headed. Good luck in the race. Let us know who wins. And yes, I agree with you, I think you've made solid improvements, for what my opinion is worth.

Gil

 

[Broaner]

Tcase is usually not the weak link despite how thin they look.

Baron hop on over to the manual racing layer. For your power level you wanna launch in 2nd and just aggressively slip it out. If you have a ceramic clutch you do not want drop the clutch. If you go through my youtube you can see how it was when I was launching in 2nd. This vid is leaving in 3rd. When leaving in 2nd the shift comes up in a hurry.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-racing/199842-hand-shaker-1-4-1-8-mile-times-here.html

 

[Broaner]

Found a vid launching in 2nd. 526/1056tq Photobucket