Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

About 2 years ago while I bought a 1990 Dodge W250 (Manual Transmission) for near nothing. I'm graduating college at the end of this semester and am ready to get the truck going and on the road. I've got it tagged (Historic, didn't require inspection), and I've driven it a few times the past couple years but I really want to make it reliable so I can use it as a nearly daily driver. To my knowledge no maintenance has been done to it in the past 4 years. All I've done is replace the battery and wipers. What mechanical maintenance do you all think I need to do? Anything especially important for these trucks? Brakes? Coolant? Fuel System? Filter? What order should I do them? I'd like to plan to do one or two things a month (can't afford to do it all at once!)

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,919 Posts
Change the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: flyballer15

·
On a new learning curve!
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Don't forget to change the transmission with good synthetic 5w-30 and fill it 1 quart over full. Change it every 30k and it will be happy.

Those things will run forever with minimal maintenance. Start anytime with only 1 battery and pull like a Mack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: flyballer15

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
definitely change the oil and filter. i suggest not going anymore than 4000 miles or 5 months without changing the oil in a turbo'd vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
oil and filter, fuel filter and a bottle of the grey ps, air filter, air up the tires. check all fluid levels, the serpentine belt, and the throttle linkage for slack. priority items will be boost/pyro gages, and stacks. new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. also, everyone seems to think a cummins sticker of some sort adds at least 30 hp. whatever. if someone can't tell what engine you have by the sound, driving around with a 2 foot tall cummins "C" on your back window probably won't clue them in either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,886 Posts
Change your coolant, and if you can, get it power flushed, you'd be amazed ant the crap that comes out of the cooling system!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
if the trucks been sitting for two year. i would drain the fuel tank and fill it with fresh stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help guys. Anything else I should specifically look out for? My E-Brake doesn't engage, not sure if that is a big problem or just a lack of tension issue. Should I be worried at all about brakes if the truck stops? I'll need to check some electrical issues as well. My wait to start light is stuck on the fuel gauge doesnt work. Are those minor repairs?

also, everyone seems to think a cummins sticker of some sort adds at least 30 hp. whatever. if someone can't tell what engine you have by the sound, driving around with a 2 foot tall cummins "C" on your back window probably won't clue them in either.
Haha.. thankfully none of those upgrades were part of the plan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. also, everyone seems to think a cummins sticker of some sort adds at least 30 hp. whatever. if someone can't tell what engine you have by the sound, driving around with a 2 foot tall cummins "C" on your back window probably won't clue them in either.
what in the hell are those first 4 things??? lol i have the big sticker in the back window and blacked out a couple guys by the mall only to get asked if i was burning oil or something :rof told them it was a cummins diesel they said " oh thats what that sound was"
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,475 Posts
Change thermostat while coolant is out, Check water pump see if there is up and down movement when you grab the pulley. If so it's bad. replace Radiator hoses.
 
  • Like
Reactions: flyballer15

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
I would add:

1. Read about tab for the KDP
2. Flush brake fluid and inspect rubber brake lines
3. Replace the four rubber fuel lines; 2 of them are on top of the fuel tank and 2 are in the engine compartment. If you have the fuel tank down to fix the fuel gauge (not that the problem is necessarily with the sender) you can do the fuel lines at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Who is a good supplier for the hoses and thermostat? Do I just use cut to length hoses? Should I get the kit for the KDP because it has the seals an gaskets? I'm reading there may be some issues with bolts coming loose on the gear housing. Is this something I should look into?

Thanks again for your help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
If you are just running diesel and not bio-diesel, I would just buy normal rubber fuel line (SAE J30 R7). My '89 uses 1/4" for the return and 5/16" for the fuel. You want the so-called high pressure clamps...intended for fuel lines and not vacuum lines.

Since it sounds like your truck might not be a show truck, you might consider cutting a fuel tank access port in the bed. I have a 12" x 24" port above my fuel tank sender and I can change out the hoses and sender w/o dropping the tank. I installed flanges on he underside of the hole I cut, and the removed bed material just screws back onto the flange.

I think most people say to buy new seals for the KDP job. Yes, there are a bunch of cap screws under the timing cover which need to be removed, lock-tited, and torqued while you have the cover off for the KDP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
what in the hell are those first 4 things??? lol i have the big sticker in the back window and blacked out a couple guys by the mall only to get asked if i was burning oil or something :rof told them it was a cummins diesel they said " oh thats what that sound was"
well i'll be dipped, i didn't think anybody actually read this stuff :doh:




oh yeah, theres some screws on the i.p. you'll want to turn, and maybe a timing bump, and probably adjust some of the valves:thumbsup:. blinker fluid, muffler bearings, and a brass magnet. oh, and you'll definitely want to trade up to a semi-truck transmission. just in case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
well i'll be dipped, i didn't think anybody actually read this stuff :doh:




oh yeah, theres some screws on the i.p. you'll want to turn, and maybe a timing bump, and probably adjust some of the valves:thumbsup:. blinker fluid, muffler bearings, and a brass magnet. oh, and you'll definitely want to trade up to a semi-truck transmission. just in case.
these guys have everything for diy could ask for KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!
 
  • Like
Reactions: zacman
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top