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What do guys think about gates water pumps?
any good bad or ugly about them? Local Napa has GMB pumps in stock. Never heard of the brand. According to Genos garage gates pumps are very similar to the Cummins OEM pumps. Any thoughts?
thank you all
I put a Gates in my old Cummins going good for 7.5 years and have one in my 12v now and it's been 5.5 years.
 

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Been doing it that way 55 years and never had a problem if you wait until thermostat is warmed up and open. You can rev it just a bit to force any air out. Never ever had a problem including my 99. Most goodhermostats ahve a small vent hole or "jiggle valve" to let air through anyway.
 

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I put a needle valve in the front head port. I connect a 1/4" tube from the valve and into the radiator and let it run. Air bleeds as it hits the valve, no mess on the floor and I just keep the coolant topped off til the air is gone.
 

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2002 2nd gen Cummins 4x4 2500, 4” MBRP exhaust, 5spd swap, FASS 150, edge juice , S&B intake
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I put a needle valve in the front head port. I connect a 1/4" tube from the valve and into the radiator and let it run. Air bleeds as it hits the valve, no mess on the floor and I just keep the coolant topped off til the air is gone.
Do you have a photo of your set up? If not may you please elaborate a bit more in regards to the needle valve?
thank you
 

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2002 2nd gen Cummins 4x4 2500, 4” MBRP exhaust, 5spd swap, FASS 150, edge juice , S&B intake
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well unfortunately the parts won’t be here till Thursday. I ordered a gates water pump, gates idler arm, and gates HD belt. I’m assuming the weep will get worse over time? I drove the truck yesterday and got it to operating temp didn’t see a leak. Drove it again today with no leak and no wet spot on the drive way. This was the first time I’ve ever seen a coolant leak on the truck. To my understanding the weep holes are designed to help lubricate the seal and bearing? Regardless I’ll be swapping out the pump. At 183k it’s probably due time anyways.
Thank you
 

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The needle valve idea hit me a few years ago when I changed the coolant. The next time I drained some coolant, I decided to leave it in the head and I used a 1/4" rivet head to plug it. I connect a tube to the valve and run it into the radiator. Air bleeds quickly and all the spatter goes right back into the radiator. The bulk of the air is bled in a few minutes and I can do something else while the last of the air bleeds and I just watch the radiator occasionally to top it off.
It's all about easy and less mess!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Bumper
 

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2002 2nd gen Cummins 4x4 2500, 4” MBRP exhaust, 5spd swap, FASS 150, edge juice , S&B intake
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The needle valve idea hit me a few years ago when I changed the coolant. The next time I drained some coolant, I decided to leave it in the head and I used a 1/4" rivet head to plug it. I connect a tube to the valve and run it into the radiator. Air bleeds quickly and all the spatter goes right back into the radiator. The bulk of the air is bled in a few minutes and I can do something else while the last of the air bleeds and I just watch the radiator occasionally to top it off.
It's all about easy and less mess!
View attachment 971880
Seeing the image makes much more sense now. Thank you
 

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2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic
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To my understanding the weep holes are designed to help lubricate the seal and bearing? Regardless I’ll be swapping out the pump. At 183k it’s probably due time anyways.
Thank you
The weep hole exists to indicate that the coolant seal of the bearing is failing.
Bearings are generally not happy about water as a rotating lubricant.
If a person sees rad fluid, however small, coming out of the weep hole, replace the water pump or face the consequences like me by weather related laziness :oops:

I'll toss this in here too, It doesn't hurt to replace the belt tensioner as well as the belt if there is a lot of age on the tensioner, hence buying the tensioner/belt kits.
 
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Burping is unnecessary, you won't find it in a manual. Fill with antifreeze, wait a few minutes, refill. Drive it till it reaches temp and top it and resivour off. Gates is a good brand for pumps, probably makes Cummins pumps for them.
 

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I don't think Gates makes the Cummins water pumps because the Gates impellars are plastic and the Cummins impellers are metal. It seems like they are more prone to weep a bit but I would run them instead of Cummins just because of the price.
 

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2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic
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Don't know about other Gates water pumps but the Gates 43526 for our trucks has metal impeller blades and pulley wheel.

And that's a good point about the thermostat, many folks use the Gates thermostat with no issues but I will only use the Cummins stat regardless that it costs more than twice as much because I think it is a superior design and product.
 
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I have never done anything special to burp air out of a 5.9/6.7. But if you want to, pull that plug on the head. Or anything easy to get to in the top of the motor that goes to the cooling system.

We have 15L ISX and X15 cummins at work. On those motors Cummins recommend using a vacuum filler. You vacuum the system (the hoses will collapse). After that you open a valve and it will suck in the coolant through a hose. I use a 5 gal bucket with pre-mixed coolant (easy to see when it's getting low, so you don't suck in air). Kind of a cool system
 

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I was referring to the 6.7 water pumps. I just use them because they have deeper impellers.
 

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Guys ya'll should get a pressure tester with refill capability. When you pull pressure on the system it draws all the air out then with system closed off put drawhose in new coolant then open as long as you keep in coolant it will the entire system air free.harbour freight 60bucks
 

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2002 2nd gen Cummins 4x4 2500, 4” MBRP exhaust, 5spd swap, FASS 150, edge juice , S&B intake
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
My parts arrived today. I’ll be doing the install tomorrow morning. Thank you to everyone who has given some helpful information and input. I’ll be installing the Gates water pump, Gates tensioner, and Gates HD belt. I’ll pull the Heater core hose from the head to burp any air in the system. I’ve head issues in the past with gas powered vehicles and cavitation that’s why I was asking about my truck. Approaching 16years with the truck and only paid someone once to work on it. Had COVID, so unfortunately I payed someone to install the clutch (New year’s Weekend). It’s awfully rewarding to work on your projects!

Thanks everyone
 
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2002 2nd gen Cummins 4x4 2500, 4” MBRP exhaust, 5spd swap, FASS 150, edge juice , S&B intake
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Outta curiosity, does anyone have torque specs for the water pump and tensioner?
Thank you
 

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Just tighten them with 3/8 ratchet and don't strip them. If you have to measure them that is about 35-50lb depending on bolt size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just tighten them with 3/8 ratchet and don't strip them. If you have to measure them that is about 35-50lb depending on bolt size.
The good and tight method!!
thank you
 

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Worked for a hundred years.
 
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