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Okay guys so I bought a 2006 Dodge ram 2500 from auction recently when it got delivered to my house both batteries were dead we had to use to jump box is to start it to pull in my driveway. First thing I did in the morning was buy two brand new batteries to start the truck. It fired right up so I drove it down the road the throttle response was poor almost as if it was struggling for fuel but it picked up and moved got it past 30 so I know it’s not limp mode and seemed to be shifting through all the gears pretty smoothly. (I found out later the trans was rebuilt only 20k miles prior) I noticed the voltage on the dash was reading about 11 V so I grabbed my multi meter and put the positive to the back of the alternator and the negative to the battery terminal and I was reading about 11.59 V so I thought maybe the alternator was bad so I purchased an alternator and put it in but still have the same voltage. So I thought let’s go to square one and check off the stupid stuff. I check my terminals, they are gunked up a bit. I Used a grinding wheel to freshen them up and also checked all my fuses none are blown. I have a nice EBD scanner so I hooked it up, The only code it was showing was ECM/PCM signal intermittent. So I found the previous owner of the truck and messaged him on Facebook he mentioned that the ECM was going bad so he had a voltage regulator hooked up and it helped a bit. I bet the bullet and bought a new ECM and had it registered to my vib I installed it today hoping to solve some of the issue The voltage is still the same but the throttle response has improved still not perfect but I notice improvement. iMessage the previous owner again and he suggested it may need an aftermarket fuel system like a air dog or fass... at this point I’m not convinced he knows what he’s talking about. I’m confused and tired of pulling my hair out guys if you can help or suggest anything it would be much appreciated. It’s frustrating because I have a pretty expensive scanner and the trucks just not throwing any codes.... thanks in advance.
920255
920256
920257
920258
 

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Welcome to CF.

From those messages, that guy seems clueless.

Maybe 1 of the following threads will help. Search results for query: alternator not charging

If you were to break up that wall of text into an easier-to-read format you might get some replies.
I usually skip right past a post like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
New ECM, Two new batteries, new alternator, checked all the my fuses and grounds, wire brushed terminals, still getting obd code ECM/PCM power intermittent. Dash says 11volts and check gauges. Voltage at back of alternator is 11.50.
Suggestions ? I’m going mad
 

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Tpim? I know they are super problematic on the 06s. 06 for some reason had electrical problems. I'm sure its something stupid hopefully not the tpim they are pricey. But that's where I would start.

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Discussion Starter #5
Tpim? I know they are super problematic on the 06s. 06 for some reason had electrical problems. I'm sure its something stupid hopefully not the tpim they are pricey. But that's where I would start.

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Thanks bro I will check it.
Tpim? I know they are super problematic on the 06s. 06 for some reason had electrical problems. I'm sure its something stupid hopefully not the tpim they are pricey. But that's where I would start.

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Yeah “egr deleted” an 06!😂😂😂 Did he put a cam in it?


If you still have a P2509 with the new ECM, you need to verify EVERY positive and negative power wire into the ECM. Do a light tug test on those power wires in the connector as they could have come dislodged.

Also, using a thin wire wrapped around a multimeter probe, check those + and - pins for resistance in the ECM connector.
 

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Cable from alternator to passenger battery been checked? It's a fuselink cable so physically looking at it tells you absolutely nothing.
 
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There is/was no egr to delete on an 06.

BullyDog/Edge/Smarty etc are all box tuners that will work fine. EFI Live is another option.

If it is stock injectors, you don't need an aftermarket lift pump.

Start cheap...change the fuel filter.

If the previous owner claims to have deleted an 06...I would bet the transmission wasn't "rebuilt" 20k ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Welcome to CF.

From those messages, that guy seems clueless.

Maybe 1 of the following threads will help. Search results for query: alternator not charging

If you were to break up that wall of text into an easier-to-read format you might get some replies.
I usually skip right past a post like that.
Thanks man.
There is/was no egr to delete on an 06.

BullyDog/Edge/Smarty etc are all box tuners that will work fine. EFI Live is another option.

If it is stock injectors, you don't need an aftermarket lift pump.

Start cheap...change the fuel filter.

If the previous owner claims to have deleted an 06...I would bet the transmission wasn't "rebuilt" 20k ago.
yeah he’s an idiot, but he did sent me the receipts for the trans. And I called the shop to verify.
 

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So, are you trying to resolve the charging system issue? If so, that external regulator is 🤯 The alternator has an internal regulator so why the jerry-rigged external? Yeah, I'd refrain from trying to get any more leads from the prior owner. Here's the deal. The PCM has a sensed voltage wire. If the PCM sees let's say 10.4 it will ground the driver in the internal regulator (inside the alt) which will tell the alternator to crank out some amps/volts. Once the PCM is satisfied with the desired voltage, it kicks off the regulator (via signal wire between the PCM and ALT.) and so the cycle begins. Using your scan tool, read battery voltage/PCM voltage. Compare the scan tool reading with the vtave at either battery or alternator outlet (thick red cable) and you may see conflicting numbers. Don't worry about .1 or.2 cts different. If the PCM and actual voltage are say.... 1/2 a voltage apart. This is your problem. If this is happening, backpin the PCM and Cummins Controller SOURCE VOLTAGE wire at the controller(s) connector. Compare the actual voltage at the battery with the wire(s) at the controllers. If one or both are off, CUT (don't pigtail) close to the connector leaving enough room to work with. Temporarily supply the voltage to the controller directly from the battery. Now, if the voltage at battery and what's displayed on the scan tool, internal controller failure. If they match (while hardwired) the issue in in that circuit. That fault for "INTERMITTENT SIGNAL" could be the smokin gun. If the battery voltage at the controller is erratic the PCM will tattle like a 3rd grader. I know I spewed a lot here but I've seen this type issue a buttload of times. Also, be VERY careful swapping controllers!!! A new controller is fine but a used one.... you will induce more problems than you ever imagined.
 

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I had a similar issue and even though I was cleaning the terminals, the battery cables in a few spots were massively corroded under the insulation. My biggest issue was the crossover cable but the positive lead going to the ECU was also bad.

Check for voltage drops across the cables with a meter. That's how I found mine. Someone else here had suggested it.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
So, are you trying to resolve the charging system issue? If so, that external regulator is 🤯 The alternator has an internal regulator so why the jerry-rigged external? Yeah, I'd refrain from trying to get any more leads from the prior owner. Here's the deal. The PCM has a sensed voltage wire. If the PCM sees let's say 10.4 it will ground the driver in the internal regulator (inside the alt) which will tell the alternator to crank out some amps/volts. Once the PCM is satisfied with the desired voltage, it kicks off the regulator (via signal wire between the PCM and ALT.) and so the cycle begins. Using your scan tool, read battery voltage/PCM voltage. Compare the scan tool reading with the vtave at either battery or alternator outlet (thick red cable) and you may see conflicting numbers. Don't worry about .1 or.2 cts different. If the PCM and actual voltage are say.... 1/2 a voltage apart. This is your problem. If this is happening, backpin the PCM and Cummins Controller SOURCE VOLTAGE wire at the controller(s) connector. Compare the actual voltage at the battery with the wire(s) at the controllers. If one or both are off, CUT (don't pigtail) close to the connector leaving enough room to work with. Temporarily supply the voltage to the controller directly from the battery. Now, if the voltage at battery and what's displayed on the scan tool, internal controller failure. If they match (while hardwired) the issue in in that circuit. That fault for "INTERMITTENT SIGNAL" could be the smokin gun. If the battery voltage at the controller is erratic the PCM will tattle like a 3rd grader. I know I spewed a lot here but I've seen this type issue a buttload of times. Also, be VERY careful swapping controllers!!! A new controller is fine but a used one.... you will induce more problems than you ever imagined.
Gonna try this in the morning thanks brother. I bought a refurbished pcm that was linked to my vin from a very reputable company.
 

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Also, actually check voltage at the ECU where the lead attaches. I was getting massive fluctuation there. Was jumping between 9 and 12+ volts just further showing me that cable was shot as the drivers battery was putting out steady voltage but the ECU wasn't getting clean power. Like if pass/drivers battery are good and within range but you test that specific power lead, it might show you a voltage drop.

Again, someone suggested this to me here and it was spot on. I'm new to these trucks but this forum is a big help. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m only getting around 12.05 off the back of my alternator... brand new alternator, brand new batteries, brand new ECM, just redid all my ground and battery terminals 🤬🤯
 

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Depending on ambient temperature, I’d imagine 13.3V at idle all the way up to as much as 14.4V at cruising speeds, with all accessories on.
 
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On my 09 my edge cts3 insight tells me my volts is 14.0 while driving

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This is what I mean by voltage drop. You can check the integrity of the cables. If that power cable going to ECM is corroded it will drop voltage and give the code, a voltage regulator won't fix that.

Not affiliated:
 
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Discussion Starter #20
This is what I mean by voltage drop. You can check the integrity of the cables. If that power cable going to ECM is corroded it will drop voltage and give the code, a voltage regulator won't fix that.

Not affiliated:
I’m gonna check the voltage at the ECU where the lead attaches. Where you getting fluctuating reading when the truck was off or on ?
 
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