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Renaissance Redneck BCVP
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Discussion Starter #1
I’m a former ‘05 owner (3500 SLT) and have also had a slew of other 2500 and 3500 Cummins trucks. I’m currently driving a 2014 SXT 3500 and while I love it, I just don’t need to have this much cash tied up in a truck right now. For those of you that are still loving your 3rd gens, if you needed to replace yours, is there a point at which you would consider a truck “worn out”? Who has the highest mile 3rd Gen these days?
 

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There are just too many variables to give an accurate answer.

In my opinion, these engines will go 300,000 to 500,000 miles if taken care of, not driven like it was stolen and good regular maintenance is done. Not knowing the driving habits of previous owners makes buying one with over 150,000 miles a deal breaker for me.

That said, the caveat; your mileage may vary ;)

Mine has 327,000 miles on it but because of an injector failure that in turn took out the turbo I re-ringed and put all new bearings in it.
 

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When I pulled my factory shortblock for a built one there was plenty of cross hatch left at 300k and could probably have easily gone 300k more . 240k of that was over 800hp so as long as it’s been taken care of I wouldn’t worry to much . Injectors seem to be the culprit of ruining the cr motors.
 

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Trying to learn
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:agree2:
What they said!
 

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The shell will rot away before most people consider them throw aways. If I do get to that point, I'll use it for a fummins swap.

That said, I'm at 310K in the salt belt with no major rusting issues. I'll just need a new bed someday in the future. That isn't that big of a deal.
 

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They last a long time untill someone ( or an CR injector ) lets the magic Smoke Out .
Then its over Johnny .
 

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Renaissance Redneck BCVP
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Discussion Starter #7
One of the trucks I’m looking at is at 240,000. It is spotless, full load in a non fleet color and looks bone stock except for an AFE air filter. I will probably go look at it in the next day or so.

I obviously know it all comes down to maintenance, and will have it gone through before making a deal. My problem is that I absolutely need a long bed cc 3500 srw. That is the only configuration that really works, and they are not exactly a common truck to find used.

I’m also very versed at searching here, but the specifics needed for my next question brings either 9,000 threads, or omits “common” words. Is there a way to test injectors while still in the engine? I’ve never heard of one, but I’ve never had to replace an injector so I’ve never looked into it. Any other cues aside from white smoke on start-up?

Thanks guys! I’ve been out of the “working on trucks” mode for a long time, but if I by a 15 year old rig, I guess I’ll have to get back into that groove!
 

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I've got an 08, bought it at 212k, has 313k on it now, have had it for 3 years, had to pretty much redo the front suspension, rear driveshaft u joints, and a valve body. Also had to replace every component of the AC system but that was for comfort. Water pump went out at 280k and left the clutch fan and idler outlet bearings shot, so replaced those as well. Coolant flush with water pump replacement. Done it all myself so saved there on labor but have spent many weekends full of headaches lol. Honestly still love my truck and hope to have many more miles under my belt before an overhaul is needed.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Street tune - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 308,300
 

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It's winter time.
Tell the perspective seller that you want to start the truck bone cold, not plugged in either. Like schedule to see it at 8 am on a Saturday and show up at 7 in case he's planning on firing it up for a minute before you arrive. Failing injectors generally present themselves as a long start or no start when cold and the colder, the longer it takes.
And check to make sure it wasn't plugged in all night.
If it lights right off without cranking too long, no white smoke (not to be confused with steam), run smooth right away, etc, that is about the best shadetree instant test I can think of. Still not 100% foolproof. And if the truck doesn't have additional filtration or a recepit for injectors in the last 100-150k miles, assume ti needs them soon.

Other than that, it's a truck and even if the engine has another 200k miles left in it, the other 1000 components may not. I'd rather buy a 200k mile truck with a stack of receipts for all the things the guy above me posted than a 120k mile truck "that's never had any problems."

Don't buy from a used car lot unless you have great confidence in the vehicle you're looking at or the car dealer (if you find one worth trusting let us know, haha)
Also don't fall for the greasy used car salesman with the Polish accent who is posing as a private owner. Don't "meet" the seller in a public location, you want to see where the truck lived and how meticulous the owner is, at his house. Don't buy something that someone just bought 6 months or 3 weeks ago and "doesn't need anymore."

Don't buy from the salty mag chloride side of the mountains, buy from the wet coastal undercarriage wash from the rain everyday side of the mountains.

That's about it, super easy, lol.

And compared to new or newer low mile vehicles, old and high mileage is where it may pay to spend more than the "going rate" for the right vehicle. Especailly with diesel trucks. So many with a sordid history that included some d bag who stacked 3 tuners on top of each other 10 years ago and tried his hand at drag racing a 4 ton truck.
Don't buy an auto trans (just my rule). I loathe the 4 speed autos, unless you only tow light, then make sure the trans isn't ragged out.

Cheers!
 

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So basically, buy my truck and long bed it....lol.
 

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Renaissance Redneck BCVP
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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I’m in Blaine Wa every day, so we’re close! You longbed it it for me,and delete the mega part and it’s a deal. Unless your truck is red, blue, green, yellow or black:)
 

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Original owner of a 06' mega cab. 383K miles on original 5.9. Has 12300hrs on the clock. Changed injectors 2X, last being BBI stage 1's 6+ yrs + 135k miles later. Fully rebuilt billet DDT auto at 200K because torque converter was slipping under high loads in lockup. Rebuilt rear end 1X (just bearings), Transfer case at 310K, 08.5 T steering & Borgeson 6 bolt box recently. Hard wired headlights with relays & rocker swithches because TIPM is junk. Lots of other stuff along the way.
Truck is starting to rot out now. +10K to repair body because of family discount. Bro-in-law has a body shop. Just picked up a used complete 6.7 from an 08 w/ approx. 150K miles that will be getting rebuild for when the 5.9 finally craps the bed. Still running original CP3, Starter & PS Pump. I have no problem dumping another 20K into a truck that is worth 1/2 that. That is less than a year of payments and depriciation that you will have on any new 100K diesel truck. Warreny sucks if your truck is in the shop & you can't drive it. New vehicles break down more often than my old beater.
I'll quote some wise man that said "I drive a CUMMINS, not a dodge!!!"
 

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What's the pickup used for
If tow rig, I'd build my own. Most of what's for sale out there in the 3rd Gens is way overpriced boy toy ego rigs or burned out bomber piles of beat junke.

If you have the skills, shop, tools and a top gun diesel machine shop in the area buy a clean body no rust pickup with a toasted motor. Lots of them out there.
Still lots of 5.9 rebuildable motors, heads and cranks if you search. Or go 6.7.
Plan on a cash build, will get the best prices cash on the counter talks big. Does it show up on taxes? WGAS.

If you want an auto HD heavy tow rig, go with an Allison 1000 6 conversion behind the Cummins. Like a good woman, you'll NEVER go back to Fiat auto trannies.

Keep the tow tunes to max 450hp, Cummins and Allison will outlive a couple bodies
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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Motor and drivetrain with exception on 48re a long ways 400k+ Easy with fluid changes.

Truck interior/exterior vibrate and rattle at 150k.

48re on stock power is tough. 200k+ you’ve done good IMO
 

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Well, I’m in Blaine Wa every day, so we’re close! You longbed it it for me,and delete the mega part and it’s a deal. Unless your truck is red, blue, green, yellow or black:)

Crap! It's got a red Cummins logo, blue lighted switch for the driving lights, green spark plug wires, yellow sticker on the exhaust brake switch and black paint everywhere!

lol

Good luck in your search!
 

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What's the pickup used for
If tow rig, I'd build my own. Most of what's for sale out there in the 3rd Gens is way overpriced boy toy ego rigs or burned out bomber piles of beat junke.

If you have the skills, shop, tools and a top gun diesel machine shop in the area buy a clean body no rust pickup with a toasted motor. Lots of them out there.
Still lots of 5.9 rebuildable motors, heads and cranks if you search. Or go 6.7.
Plan on a cash build, will get the best prices cash on the counter talks big. Does it show up on taxes? WGAS.

If you want an auto HD heavy tow rig, go with an Allison 1000 6 conversion behind the Cummins. Like a good woman, you'll NEVER go back to Fiat auto trannies.

Keep the tow tunes to max 450hp, Cummins and Allison will outlive a couple bodies

I'd really like to do a square body 70s Chevy p/u with a 12V and NV trans!
 

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Truck is starting to rot out now. +10K to repair body because of family discount. Bro-in-law has a body shop. Just picked up a used complete 6.7 from an 08 w/ approx. 150K miles that will be getting rebuild for when the 5.9 finally craps the bed. Still running original CP3, Starter & PS Pump. I have no problem dumping another 20K into a truck that is worth 1/2 that. That is less than a year of payments and depriciation that you will have on any new 100K diesel truck. Warreny sucks if your truck is in the shop & you can't drive it. New vehicles break down more often than my old beater.
However, this is only because you love your truck and the prospect of a good restoration project, not because it's the most fiscally responsible way to go.
I realize $100k in loonies is only like $70k in GWs and that is even an exaggeration, because you're comparing a new dually limited to your old truck. Replace $100k with $70k CDN for a new Tradesman diesel, which has more everything than an 06 anyways, regarding power, ratings, features, etc. and it's a little more apples to apples.

Otherwise what you're saying may as well be, "This '84 Chrysler Cordoba is waaay better than a new Lambo. I mean, for only $1200 this thing gets me to the corner store and halfway home usually and damn those Lamborghinis are expensive $250k and they don't doo anything better than the old Cordoba!"

$10k to replace fenders, doors, cab corners, 2 gal of Bondo and 2 gal of paint, is a horrible investment on a ragged out old truck. Unless that includes all the OTHER stuff that is rotting out too, or maybe that's already sunk cost.
When it's easier to name the parts that are still original vs the parts you've replaced, some multiple times and add in the swiss cheese factor, it's time to throw in the towel. There's just too many reasonably priced vehicles out there that don't have rusted....everything to make that a good decision unless of course it's only for the love of the sport.

I really like my 07, but it's got less than 200k miles, zero rust top or bottom and isn't a money pit, but to say it's the best and the new ones aren't worth a plugged nickel is a really false statement that you won't hear me making.
 

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It is worn out when it is rusted away or when excessive repairs are no longer worth it. A lost depends on how it was driven and maintained.
 

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However, this is only because you love your truck and the prospect of a good restoration project, not because it's the most fiscally responsible way to go. Fiscally responsible is a relative term based on what your environment allows. Do you have the funds to support purchase of a new diesel truck? Are you capable of paying $130/hr shop rates if your new (used) truck is out of warranty? Does your truck earn your income through a small business that you can afford depreciation, payments, maintainence & increased insurance? If your new truck is sitting in the stealership for 5 weeks for warranty, are they going to supply you a truck that is set up to pull so you can still pay your bills?

I realize $100k in loonies is only like $70k in GWs and that is even an exaggeration, Shop in Canada. Not an exaggeration. A new loaded 2020 will run you $100K CAD. You can get a new 2018 for $70K CAD before taxes because they lost 30K in depreciation & not selling in our economic environment. because you're comparing a new dually limited to your old truck. Replace $100k with $70k CDN for a new Tradesman diesel, which has more everything than an 06 anyways, regarding power, ratings, features, etc. and it's a little more apples to apples. My 06 has 500+HP, an auto that's built for 850HP, Firestone air bags to haul any load I will ever see, updated stereo to rival any new trucks, updated GSP via I phone, heated seats & all the options offered in 06. What I don't have is the emissions crap, complexity & the heated steering wheel, but I have gloves.

Otherwise what you're saying may as well be, "This '84 Chrysler Cordoba is waaay better than a new Lambo. I mean, for only $1200 this thing gets me to the corner store and halfway home usually and damn those Lamborghinis are expensive $250k and they don't doo anything better than the old Cordoba!" No I don't make that comparison at all. I say its way better earning the same $$$ for my truck as for a brand new truck that would be beet to crap in the work place that I put it in. I also consider my truck to be more dependable than any new truck on the market because I have personally rebuild most everything at least once. I have addressed every weak link that Dodge did not do when they sold me a new truck 14yrs ago. And the 09 Challenger in the background does the same thing as a $250K Lambo. It goes fast & handles corners. Granted it only cost $48K and lost 1/2 of its value over 11 yrs & 20K miles, but for another 200K I would eat the same Lambo, haul 4 people, luggage & Golf clubs. Perspective my friend, lets keep it real.


$10k to replace fenders, doors, cab corners, 2 gal of Bondo and 2 gal of paint, is a horrible investment on a ragged out old truck. Unless that includes all the OTHER stuff that is rotting out too, or maybe that's already sunk cost.Any fool to think buying a new vehicle is an investment better start thinking unless it is an original barn find 66 Shelby Cobra for under $500K.
When it's easier to name the parts that are still original vs the parts you've replaced, some multiple times and add in the swiss cheese factor, it's time to throw in the towel. Throw in the towel? I consider myself a 10%. That means there are 90% of people that would disagree with my train of though. These are people that don't have the capability, knowledge, tools, shop, space, time etc to keep an old truck running forever. A high percentage of us on the 3rd Gen forum are the 10%. That's why we are here. There's just too many reasonably priced vehicles out there that don't have rusted....everything to make that a good decision unless of course it's only for the love of the sport. If you are buying someone else 14yr old truck you better be one of the 10% or have deep pockets

I really like my 07, but it's got less than 200k miles, zero rust top or bottom and isn't a money pit, but to say it's the best and the new ones aren't worth a plugged nickel is a really false statement that you won't hear me making.
Go to the 5th Gen forum to see all the crap you call a false statement. Go trade in your pristine low km 3rd gen with 0 rust for a new truck. That should cover the first 6 months of payments.
 
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