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Discussion Starter #1
How did you lower yours? I cut a coil out of the front and drop shackles in the rear, still has a stinkbug stance rake. thinking about swapping to gasser 2500 front coils or going back to stock coils to level it out.

 

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WHat did you do to your truck???!!! You don't want "gasser" coils and what the hell is a "stinkbug stance rake"? Why do you want to lower it?
 

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Don't listen to the haters. I was thinking about doing this to my truck too. found some drop spindles and drop rear shackles the problem is my tires are a little too tall. I will be curious to see what you end up finding keep up the good work.
 

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The more HARD parts you can find to lower and keep stock coil height will net as close to stock ride as possible...provided the bump stops still offer enough travel.

If you tow...you can go with an air bag to aid load, but remove the overload leaf...that will be close to 3/4" drop right at the axle...so closer to 1 1/4" maybe at rear bumper.
 

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Don't listen to the haters. I was thinking about doing this to my truck too. found some drop spindles and drop rear shackles the problem is my tires are a little too tall. I will be curious to see what you end up finding keep up the good work.
Not hating, just got some questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
WHat did you do to your truck???!!! You don't want "gasser" coils and what the hell is a "stinkbug stance rake"? Why do you want to lower it?
Are you talking about the rainbow color option or what I did to lower it? I posted exactly what I did to lower it.

Have you ever seen a stink bug before? (not a squash bug, Google it if your not sure on the difference). They stick their in the air before they spray. Pretty much all 2wd trucks come factoy with a "stink bug" stance

It's a 2wd xcab long bed that is my tow rig and long distance commuter. Lowering it will improve fuel economy, handling, and reduce sway in the truck and trailer while towing.

How do you know I don't want gasser coils?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't listen to the haters. I was thinking about doing this to my truck too. found some drop spindles and drop rear shackles the problem is my tires are a little too tall. I will be curious to see what you end up finding keep up the good work.

Where did you find drop spindles? Are you sure they are for a HD 2500 (8800gvwr)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The more HARD parts you can find to lower and keep stock coil height will net as close to stock ride as possible...provided the bump stops still offer enough travel.

If you tow...you can go with an air bag to aid load, but remove the overload leaf...that will be close to 3/4" drop right at the axle...so closer to 1 1/4" maybe at rear bumper.
I do tow, but i don't want the complexity and added cost of an air system for bags. Most I'll be towing anyway is a bumper pull trailer, so the truck will never really be loaded that heavy pulling a trailer.
 

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I was thinking you don't want 1/2 ton because I heard they don't squat down as much as you would think... But I guess you are actually trying to raise the front end now? I just read that wrong the first time.
 

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Pretty much all 2wd trucks come factoy with a "stink bug" stance
That's for aerodynamic purposes and so that the truck will level out when loaded. Ever seen a leveled truck running down the highway with a loaded trailer? Rear end squatting and headlights pointed towards the sky. This is because they've gotten rid of the "stink bug" stance that the truck was intended to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's for aerodynamic purposes and so that the truck will level out when loaded. Ever seen a leveled truck running down the highway with a loaded trailer? Rear end squatting and headlights pointed towards the sky. This is because they've gotten rid of the "stink bug" stance that the truck was intended to have.
lowering and leveling reduces frontal cross section thus reducing aerodynamic drag. look at the edge of a playing card, and then tip side of the playing card thats towards you down a few degrees, the visible area of the card increases.

aiming headlights properly, its important.

by having the rear of the truck lower, you need less tongue weight to lower the front of the trailer reducing sway, and thereby loading the truck less causing less squat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was thinking you don't want 1/2 ton because I heard they don't squat down as much as you would think... But I guess you are actually trying to raise the front end now? I just read that wrong the first time.
not a half ton coil, a gasser/360 3/4 ton (2500) coil vs the heavier/stiffer diesel/v10 coils. trying to bring the front end of the truck back up about an inch now compared to where it is.
 

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lowering and leveling reduces frontal cross section thus reducing aerodynamic drag. look at the edge of a playing card, and then tip side of the playing card thats towards you down a few degrees, the visible area of the card increases.

aiming headlights properly, its important.

by having the rear of the truck lower, you need less tongue weight to lower the front of the trailer reducing sway, and thereby loading the truck less causing less squat.
If such was the case, these trucks would come from the factory lowered and leveled. These trucks were designed to tow heavy and with heavy tongue weights in mind. Again, they're raked from the factory with load leveling in mind. No, a heavy tongue weight won't always be the case, but when it's necessary, this is what they were designed for.
 

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I just dont see how all this work and time in this idea will gain you much of a mileage improvement. Running E rated tires and adding a smarty will do more. and maybe a good wax job too :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just dont see how all this work and time in this idea will gain you much of a mileage improvement. Running E rated tires and adding a smarty will do more. and maybe a good wax job too :thumbsup:
It has e load tired and what's a smarty?

And with the wax job lol... actually would make the truck slower/worse fuel economy. its because of something called a "boundary layer", if you want a simple explanation they tested it on myth busters.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If such was the case, these trucks would come from the factory lowered and leveled. These trucks were designed to tow heavy and with heavy tongue weights in mind. Again, they're raked from the factory with load leveling in mind. No, a heavy tongue weight won't always be the case, but when it's necessary, this is what they were designed for.
Probably was more intended for the bed payload rather than trailer tongue weight. i don't really haul much heavy stuff in the bed, more tow trailers with my junk cars on them.
 

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It has e load tired and what's a smarty?

And with the wax job lol... actually would make the truck slower/worse fuel economy. its because of something called a "boundary layer", if you want a simple explanation they tested it on myth busters.
easy there bill nye, a Smarty is a programmer that adds timing and fuel. Your trying to reinvent the wheel here. If your after mileage and dont tow heavy just add a hitch to a prius. Its already lowered for ya! :hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
easy there bill nye, a Smarty is a programmer that adds timing and fuel. Your trying to reinvent the wheel here. If your after mileage and dont tow heavy just add a hitch to a prius. Its already lowered for ya! :hehe:
i posted this in the wrong section, but i'll make sure to put a programer on my 12v....
 

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yea a signature would have worked along with the correct section :banghead:
 
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