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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently installed an egt in my exhaust manifold, close to the back two cylinders. I will run around 1300 pulling my 10000 lb camper at around 70mph. Is this an alright temp. to maintain for any time? I run around 800 running 70mph empty. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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What year truck? I wouldnt want to run 1300 for a sustained period but many folks do it. Mine runes 600-800 empty too.
 

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Normal. No problems.
 

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just make sure to let it cool down befor u shut if off. Not just like 30 seconds. let it stand for a few min then turn it off.
 

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The year is a 2005. The only mods I know of is a k&n air intake. The exhaust is 4inch with cat. no muffler. I don't know much about diesels, this being my first ctd. I am slowly learning by reading this forum, so any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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I'm new to the 3rd gens too,but I towed many miles with my 95 ctd and wouldn't go over 1200 for sustained periods of time. Pistons in the 3rd gens are made of a different alloy, maybe? I'm sure some one else will chime in that knows.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Searching will result in alot of topics and helpfull information on this thread. I pull a travel trailer at 8500 lbs and at 70 I'm at 1000* with normal wind conditions on flat ground. I'm at about 700* empty like you at 65-70mph.
 

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If the temperature is too high to maintain, how can I reduce the temp while pulling other than slowing down?
The 04.5+ 5.9's are designed to run 1450* continuous. However if you want to drop that number I would swap the Cat for a high-flow muffler and get a Smarty Jr.
 

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Unless you are stopping at the top of a hill and pulling hard to get there, you can just shut it off leaving it idle to cool down the turbo was done to stop coking on the turbo shaft. That was a problem in the sixties, and seventies. In class eights, a Henkie Idler was a popular option, with the new oils, and if you remember to slow down slowly and down shift you will have cooled everything down enough to shut it off immediately. Idling an engine does a lot more harm than good.
 

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Unless you are stopping at the top of a hill and pulling hard to get there, you can just shut it off leaving it idle to cool down the turbo was done to stop coking on the turbo shaft. That was a problem in the sixties, and seventies. In class eights, a Henkie Idler was a popular option, with the new oils, and if you remember to slow down slowly and down shift you will have cooled everything down enough to shut it off immediately. Idling an engine does a lot more harm than good.
Are you running a pyro? Even with slow approaches it still takes lots of time to get the turbo temp down.. And there are plenty of destroyed turbos from not cooling. Monitoring EGT's for cool down also allows the valve seats to cool.

Enable your fast-idle and you can cool the turbo at 1100 rpms.. .it's more effective and better than idling.
 

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It does amaze me that people with a Cummins in a pick-up have these problems but the delivery vehicles that use the same engine,and higher HP and torque settings, don't have these problems, and they weigh more and when they get to there stop they shut them down immediately. I have changed turbo's because the air filter was damaged and damaged the compressor and from internal engine damage damaging the turbine. Holset makes a very good turbo and failures are very rare. Keeping up on your oil changes, keeping your air-cleaner stock and clean, and you vent system clean and open, and you will not have any problems. Over-fueling, black smoke does a lot more damage to the turbo, and high RPM does not help. Stock and you will have no problems.
 

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get a boost fooler. That will knock those egts down considerably while towing. It brought mine down 200 degrees. I think 1300 is a bit high towing a 10000# trailer. Mine didn't get that high except for spikes towing an 18k trailer at 70. I averaged 1050-1100.
 

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Before I did anything to my truck it would sit at 1300 all day long while pulling ~20k up a grade. I wouldn't stress about it too much. A bone stock truck will produce those kinds of temperatures, but I wouldn't go too much over that for extended periods of time. If you are really worried about it, get a set of twins. :D
 

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The 3rd gens run hot because of all of the EPA bull. 1300 would be okay for a little while. If you want to drop it, cut out the cat and get a programmer.
 

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You can run 1400* in a 3rd gen all day long. New pistons and piston oilers mean everything will be fine. Just idle down when your done and there won't be any problems.
 

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Ditch the K&N filter....... most 5 layer gauze filters (like K&N) don't come close to OEM filtration, and let dirt in.
 

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Ditch the K&N filter....... most 5 layer gauze filters (like K&N) don't come close to OEM filtration, and let dirt in.
Not for argument sakes but I've been told by multiple dealerships that K&N is the only aftermarket air filter they'll allow. I'm not at all a K&N cheerleader but why do so many people bash it and so many dealers love em? They fooled because of K&N's popularity and just assume they're great?
 

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Not for argument sakes but I've been told by multiple dealerships that K&N is the only aftermarket air filter they'll allow. I'm not at all a K&N cheerleader but why do so many people bash it and so many dealers love em? They fooled because of K&N's popularity and just assume they're great?
The majority of people who work in dealerships are idiots. That's why........

The way to cool EGT's is with more air in and out. Free flowing intake, bigger turbo, bigger intercooler, better intake elbow, free flowing exhaust. Free up as much air as you can. More fuel = EGT up. More air = egt down.

Also, slap on a chip that advances timing for lower temps.
 

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Not for argument sakes but I've been told by multiple dealerships that K&N is the only aftermarket air filter they'll allow. I'm not at all a K&N cheerleader but why do so many people bash it and so many dealers love em? They fooled because of K&N's popularity and just assume they're great?
Just like fuel and oil filters, Dodge has OEM specs on air filters. The OEM Fleetguard filters @ 99.5% efficiency, while most multiple layer gauze filters (like the K&N) generally are in the high 98%-99.0% efficiency range.

If you smoke your turbo or have some kind of engine failure and you're running a filter that doesn't meet OEM specs, there's a good chance the dealer will let you know about it if you're trying to have the repairs done under warranty...... especially if they claim to find dirt/dust in the intake tube.
 
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