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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SOunds like a dumb question but I'd like some adult supervision.

Truck is a 2003 with NV5600, I've put 10,000 miles on it running empty.

I try to shift around 1600 RPMS and generally keep it below 2000 as per the advice to get the best MPG

But I bought it to tow and today I took my 7500 lb travel trailer for a spin. The truck seemed happier shifting above 2000 RPMs and I don't know what I'm doing and figured there might be some advice here on the best technique for shifting with a load.

THanks
 

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try to keep the shifts where you have them, above 2k rpm is good, you don't want to lug the motor 1. youre gonna waste fuel, and 2. your EGTs are going to climb and that's not good. when you hit a hill, you definitely don't want to be under 2k.... hope this helps.

Barnabie
 

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:agree2: :thumbsup:

Depending on load and situation, doesn't hurt anything to shift at a higher 2300-2400 RPM.
 

· 3 footin' through life
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With a moderate trailer on you want to always be as close to 2,000 rpms as possible. 1600 is lugging really bad with any serious weight behind you. I'm surprised you don't hear any of it. Stock clutch? That will hide the rattle from the lugging. Really it just comes down to some seat time with your rig and tracking mileage. Stock turbo certainly does better at lower RPM's but 1600 doesn't sound the best.

For example,(Not towing) in 5th at 50mph I will see 3-5% less load than in 6th at same speed. Granted, I have larger tires so that effects the speed for each gear. For stock sized tires and 3.73' I'd say you don't want to be in 6th until 50+mph. I never go for 6th anymore until 55mph. And thats if its cruising. If I'm coming up to 70mph I won't go for 6th until 60 or later.
 

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I use the shift points on the tach of 1500 and 2000 RPM. You will not be lugging the engine at 1500 RPM. The max torque on your engine is at 1400 RPM.

I never go full throttle below 1500 RPM. If the truck does not excellerate from 1500 then down shift. If I am climbing a hill then I will not up shift at 2000 but will go to 2200-2500 RPM, depending on the steepness of the hill, in order to be in the higher gear at or above 1500.
 

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SOunds like a dumb question but I'd like some adult supervision.

Truck is a 2003 with NV5600, I've put 10,000 miles on it running empty.

I try to shift around 1600 RPMS and generally keep it below 2000 as per the advice to get the best MPG

But I bought it to tow and today I took my 7500 lb travel trailer for a spin. The truck seemed happier shifting above 2000 RPMs and I don't know what I'm doing and figured there might be some advice here on the best technique for shifting with a load.

THanks
That's the way I tow my aluminum TT. For general purposes solo shifting between 1700-1900 is what I tell others if they drive mine. 2300-2400 is a good target for towing. Both number sets are for flat terrain. Don't hesitate to use near redline (2900-rpm HP peak) when it calls for it, but don't worry too much about the rpm at which it comes back in. "Ideal" (for power) is to come back in near peak torque (1400), but in practice this is not so easy with a difficult load and terrain challenge. Coming back in just above peak torque is the surface goal, but do NOT fixate on it. It is equivalent to racing, and that is counterproductive [as discussed below]. This is a subject wih depth, so I'll have to go on to some length.

The real trick to these is how to time the shift: Throttle let-off, time spent in neutral, and re-engagement. IOW, be aware that the gear shift can be broken into components to think about. Don't be afraid to take on a learning curve. Believe me that shifting one of these with an oilfield load takes time to get used to (gross combo weight above 30k).

As to FE: I believe in utilizing "best habits". That is, I drive solo the way I drive when towing. This is mainly a matter of following distances, but how to accelerate, how to shift (beyond rpm chosen to pull out) and what to listen for (which is feel as well as sounds) keeps the two closer together. This is the real, the deeper goal: To be consistent no matter the challenge faced by the truck.

Solo driving is not the default approach, if one is serious. Its sort of like horsepower numbers. They're sort of meaningless if the engine build is correct for the application. Other things are more important. So with an overall approach to driving one of these for longest life with greatest reliability with the ability to do the greatest amount of work at the lowest fuel burn then smooth consistent shifting is the goal. Actual rpm -- where to take it out & where to put it in -- is not as important.

So, in the lower gears (through third) I shift sooner (lower) and once in Fourth start to wind it out (as when needing to merge onto a highway) and only stand on the turbo in Fourth and/or Fifth. (Which is something else to limit, in general: MAP). In a big truck this is known as progressive shifting. Less time spent in lower gears is conducive to both acceleration and FE. Keep longevity and reliability at highest and FE will fall in place.

Fastest time through the gears is the way you drive your braggart in-laws pickup. Not yours. Turbo life, injector life, clutch life, tire life and transmission life are extended by doing the very least to accomplish a particular goal. As an FE measurement is the number of both acceleration and deceleration events, to limit them is the gauge -- number of events as well as duration & pressure [steering: degree + number thereof]).

Okay, an example: I may run down an Interstate entrance ramp and not hit much more than 45-50 if the traffic is light and I need neither accelerate harder or brake to enter the lane ("merging" properly is not cutting off another with less than 500' between him and you; if he has to hit brakes or shift lanes involuntarily you are in the wrong; have failied to yield ROW) and I can then can ease on up to the travel speed of 58-mph / 1,725-rpm. IOW, as soon as I am far enough onto the ramp to determine my strategy (what my mirrors tell me), my tactics of shifting are adapted to using the least to accomplishing the most. The "rule" in this instance is to have the cruise control on ASAP (reference is both KENWORTH and CUMMINS: Time spent on cruise is directly related to highest FE). I've been known to have it on well before leaving the acceleration ramp. All traffic dependent of course (and, weather, load, etc).

Conversely, I have to on occasion push past 75-mph to then brake and merge as all vehicles can decelerate faster than they can accelerate. A hard acceleration is on occasion called for. Overshoot the travel speed number (and I don't exceed 75 even on 80-mph Interstates and only then on the ramp alone [if I can] as stopping a combined rig is never easy, nor is maneuvering [there is more room on the ramp than on the road]) as soon as possible. If this means running the frontage road over its' speed limit then I may do so. I still try not to get on the turbo before Fourth. Etc. Be decisive. Do not try to wait to see if a space opens. And keep braking to an absolute minimum time!! The slack in the hitch lash-up is high at this point.

Somewhat off topic is how to exit an Interstate. I put the signal on at least a quarter moel out. And hit the exit ramp at around 50-mph. And use the exit ramp speed limit bracuse one wants to be accelerating slightly onto the service / frontage road if there is no stop or tight turn. This takes the slack out of the combination which is crucial to control.

To back into this yet further is to trip plan so as to choose a fuel stop that is in my direction of travel AND beyond any stop signs/lights prior to the Interstate ramp. This kind of approach helps offset getting into the turbo, etc, when I have to.

The Zen approach is mindfulness. Those of us pulling 35' travel trailers and averaging 14-16 mpg have choices as when to fuel (80% of 35/gls is 28/gls) thus a 400-mile towing range makes it easy to use GOOGLE maps "Street View" to determinei n advance the day before those best fuel stops (which is also ingress/egress ease). One also knows the exit problems beforehand. Etc.

Mindfulness becomes a habit if desired. Control what you can, IOW, and practice, practice, practice.


5600 reference. Note discussion on longevity, thus, shift strategy over the long term.

The-Ultimate-NV5600-Users-Thread

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shifting at 1600 is lugging it IMO. fuel mileage is nifty until you rattle a $3k transmission to death

you'll want at least 2000rpm on the tach while towing, so you'll want to shift high enough to have you at 2000 or so on the next gear. that's if your not in a hurry. These engines will rev to 3500rpm w/ no problems. Don't be afraid to use the powerband
 

· 3 footin' through life
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I use the shift points on the tach of 1500 and 2000 RPM. You will not be lugging the engine at 1500 RPM. The max torque on your engine is at 1400 RPM.

I never go full throttle below 1500 RPM. If the truck does not excellerate from 1500 then down shift. If I am climbing a hill then I will not up shift at 2000 but will go to 2200-2500 RPM, depending on the steepness of the hill, in order to be in the higher gear at or above 1500.
1500rpm is not lugging the motor but it is lugging the tranny. You won't hurt the motor but kiss the trans goodbye if you drive like that with a load.
 

· 3 footin' through life
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I'm thinking the rattling is hidden by the stock clutch or even aftermarket sprung hub clutches. Once you go to a solid hub clutch you can really tell what RPM it doesn't like. below 1400 is a no fly zone and I try not to use any serious throttle below 1700.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1500rpm is not lugging the motor but it is lugging the tranny. You won't hurt the motor but kiss the trans goodbye if you drive like that with a load.
My opriginal post was not clear. Running empty the truck does not seem to care where i shift. I try to be around 1600 but if i screw up it will climb of 800 RPMs with just a bit of rattle.

So, is there consensus on whether that is a problem, to shift below 2k empty?

With 8000 lb I very quickly learned my driving habits were causing problems so I added som revs and felt great (damn i love this truck)

This has been some really good info. THanks
 

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You got it figured out. I shift 2k unloaded. I will only go to 2400 from 2-3 and 3-4 (I have a nv4500 5 speed) because the gap is hard on it when I'm towing real heavy. My truck is gutless past 2400 and seems like it chokes up and doesn't want to rev that high.

A good rule when towing is, if you can steadily apply throttle and the trucks RPMs and speed increase, you're good. If you apply throttle and it doesn't accelerate, you're lugging it. Lugging it just makes more unnecessary heat, while burning unnecessary fuel and ultimately lowering mileage and lifespan of parts.

Remember, these are inline motors, and have lower powerbands than our Chevy and Ford counterparts. If my duramax is below 2100, forget about it. It's power really comes on around that RPM and gets stronger as it goes up. However my dodge can grunt up hills at 1700 all day. All trucks are different, and it seems you're figuring yours out just right.
 
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