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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2015 truck with a Cummins 6.7 and FS6406-A transmission that got a little wet ...... well really wet, the truck went into a pond and the entire truck was under water for more than 24 hours. It has now dripped dry and I want to see if I can revive it.

I would like to hear from members who have actually been through this and learn from their experience getting a truck like mine on the road again. I want to start with the engine. The trans is a straight forward flush as it a manual trans. I believe that the electrical hardware is going to be the biggest issue , the ECU, PCM and connector pin corrosion. The other components is going to be a one at a time process.

The interior is going to be something else, dash. switches, gages, and wire harnesses.

What do you say, fix it or sell it ????
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I bought it back for $800
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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Fix or sell is totally dependent on your budget/timeline and goal for the truck IMO.

If your DIY on the weekends only and want it reliable within a month or two then I would punt and part it out. Labor is expensive and equipment to read things properly is as well if you don’t have access to them.

If budget isn’t a concern really (relatively speaking) and it’s not needed in a hurry I say go for it.

How’d it get in the pond?

Keep us posted
 

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All the wires and plugs have gotten wet. The best case is that you can unplug and dry them all out. The worst is that they have started to corrode already. The same is to be said of the ab interior. You will have pond scum in many hard to clean places and will need to be cleaned really well. The interior foam should be replaced and the cab metal steam cleaned.


2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
 

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You're gonna have water ingestion into the the engine. DO NOT TURN IT OVER!
You will need to remove the water from the engine, combustion chambers, oil, trans, fuel tank, transfer case, both diffs., DEF tank, and power steering before you do anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just like in the ref link, there has to be a lot of clean-up and verification of water intrusion before I would even turn the engine over by hand. Jimmy N is absolutely correct, trying to run the engine at this stage could/would be a disaster.

Water Truck-7.jpg

Just too much truck to give up on it ...... I'm retired and have the time
 

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Then drain the fluids, remove the injectors and blow out the cylinders. You'll want to lube the
cylinders so they don't rust. Then refill the oil, drain the fuel system. Soak the injectors and blow
them out. Reinstall them, add fuel and see if it will start.
 

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Aside from the mechanical end of it, as I understand it, electronics are best left to dry out on their own.
Which can take quite a while, and the odds that they're still happy after the dunking aren't all that great.
 

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For the engine, drop the pan and pull the valve cover. Pour clean diesel through the head and flush out the block, repeat daily for a week. If you still have head cheese inside, plan on a full pull and disassembly.
On second thought after looking at that cow shiitte hole the truck went into, pull engine and complete rebuild.

The engine won't be your worst most expensive part.
Electronics and wiring will kill your bank account.
Plan on replacing all if you want a reliable safe rig to drive.

May be cheaper in the long run to fill the cab full of diesel and set it on fire.
Let insurance take care of it. Plus, you get rid of the cow or pig shiittee stink

Ever wonder why no farmer uses anything made of steel around a manure holding pond and they burn their work clothes daily?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
From my perspective, the engine cleanup and recovery is the easy portion of this project. Worst case scenario would be a cab replacement that will include the wire harnesses. We're talking $2000 to $2500. There are many many IHC's with blown engines that are really cheap.

If the electrical connectors and other components become an issue I will definitely go the cab replacement route. The trans and diff are a non-issue. The ECU and PCM may survive the incident.

After the engine cleanup I will open up every connector I can find and look for corrosion, clean it up and re-assemble using non-conductive lube. After all that, we'll think about powering it up.

The truck was being used in Bakersfield, CA and awaiting transport to Albuq., NM

When one considers the $70-80,000 value of the vehicle, $3-5,000 isn't much for repairs
 

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Too bad the timing won't work. I'll be going from SoCal and east bound on I-40 on Wednesday...with an empty trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What type of trailer do you have?

The GVW for the truck is 23,500

A Wed pickup would work for me.
 

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The trailer (25K GVWR) should handle it. But if it's that truck in the photo, I would need a tank endorsement to move it in CA. Yes, even if the tank is empty.

The real problem is that I'll be bailing out of SoCal as soon as humanly possible, in an effort to beat the weather.
It'll be raining for sure, maybe snowing, neither of which I mind, but if they start putting salt on the roads...

Wish I could leave Tuesday after unloading, but driving through the night two nights in a row may not work well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I currently have a bid for $900 ...... it's yours if you want it ..... it's ready now
 

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I wish I could help you out, but as mentioned, the timing sucks.

Had I been able to leave last week, as planned, weather wouldn't have been a factor. Not that weather would've been the the only issue. There's still the need for a tank endorsement. And loading, driving some 1,300 miles, unloading, and then driving home would make for a long day.
 
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