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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm likely buying this 90 w250...has 180k on the clock, owner has not done the KDP fix (has the parts, never did the fix).

Is this something that I need to jump right on at this mileage (would it have already caused issues by now)?

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So, I'm likely buying this 90 w250...has 180k on the clock, owner has not done the KDP fix (has the parts, never did the fix).

Is this something that I need to jump right on at this mileage (would it have already caused issues by now)?

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It could run for another 29 years and never have an issue or tomorrow the kdp could fall out so yea it’s best to do it as soon as you can.
 

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People do it for the peace of mind, there's no way to know when or if it'll ever happen. I've seen trucks with 500k miles that the KDP hasn't moved an bit. And the truck I have had the pin fall out at 70k miles. Personally, if you're ever anywhere near there (rad work, fan clutch, injector pump, front main seal, etc) I would just do it. For the cost of the part, it's worth the peace of mind.

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I agree do it it's cheaper and alot less work then repairing it if it would fall out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just throwing this out there...to see if anyone has tried this before I waste the time.

I'm thinking the original engine in this truck was probably a KDP failure. The timing case appears to have been removed at some point. What is the likelihood they tabbed the KDP on the replacement engine to prevent a repeated event?

Has anyone taken and inspection camera and tried going in through the oil fill hole? It would take five minutes to remove the oil fill tube, then you theoretically could snake a camera back into the cover? My only thought is if there isn't enough room between the case and the gears to fit a 3/8" camera?

Thoughts? It will be a couple weeks before I'm back at this thing, but I'm scheming now to get my plan together.

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The truck I have had the KDP fall out. The Dodge dealer, replaced the dowel pin and timing gears and put it back together without anything to secure it. So you can't assume.

And it's tight, but maybe one of the really small fiber cameras you can get in there.

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Discussion Starter #8
The truck I have had the KDP fall out. The Dodge dealer, replaced the dowel pin and timing gears and put it back together without anything to secure it. So you can't assume.

And it's tight, but maybe one of the really small fiber cameras you can get in there.

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My understanding with this replacement engine is that it was bought from a yard in Texas that specializes in Cummins, my guess is it was bought as a long block and they bolted all the accessories from the original engine onto it (that's why my turbo looked like it had 400k miles on it).

My point is that maybe they tabbed it before they installed it...not much other reason to be under that cover except for a seal leak. It would be nice to know before I go to the trouble to tear the front of it apart...

I do plan to stamp an aluminum tag with KDP KILLED and a date and install it under one of the cover bolts, for the next guy...

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I did determine that an inspection camera (even a small one) won't get between the gear and cover...although I did see some things, just nothing useful.

At least it was clean in there...

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My 92 the PO paid to have tabbed, but it wasn't. It spit it out. My Fummins the parts were purchased, but it was never done, came into my posession with a new timing case... Thats 2/3 when it comes to 12V's I have owned that spit it out. I would not trust it to stay put.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, can you pull the cover without changing the seals, or is it required to change the seals when you pull the cover? I would start this project this week (seems easy enough), but I'm not sure I could get the seals by the time I put it back together (if I ordered them).

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Ok, can you pull the cover without changing the seals, or is it required to change the seals when you pull the cover? I would start this project this week (seems easy enough), but I'm not sure I could get the seals by the time I put it back together (if I ordered them).

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I would change the timing cover gasket and front main seal when you get in there. Better than pulling it off later for an oil leak


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Discussion Starter #13
Well, since that is the case; I just ordered the TST KDP kit from Geno's; I'll tackle that whenever it comes in...

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, I've been researching this some...

Getting things apart, no surprises, nothing jumps out as difficult. Tabbing the pin, easy. Putting it together, nothing odd.

Where are the other bolts for the timing case (under the timing cover) that need loctite? Am I correct in assuming I need to spin the crank to access those bolts through the "access" holes in the timing gears?

And, because I watched it done both ways, is the crank seal indexed with the installer from the front or the back of the cover???? I see its punched to the back, installed from the back, but is it indexed from the front or the back? Or doesn't it make a difference?

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, tore it down tonight...

Damper was the worst part, it was rusted to the stub on the crank. A little tapping and a little prying got it loose.

I found my fan shroud is busted...anyone have a spare?

For the fan, I had to grind a 10mm down thin enough to get at that one bolt. I had a cheapy wrench just for that reason. Bearing seems good, no reason to change it out.

I tabbed the KDP...it was flush with the end of the case bore, I drove it back about 3/8". Tabbed it tonight, I need to the others but it was enough for one day.

I pulled the AC compressor, that was a pain. Does the main cast iron bracket really house the inlet neck as well? It looks like that entire thing is all one piece? It should make changing the filter easier.

Now I have some questions:

Some of the bolts are behind the gears...and there is no lining them up with a gear window. How do you get to them? I can see the one bolt is behind the web of the gear, so no getting to it.

Another question about the cam bolts, what are they torqued to? I could probably look it in the FSM, but I'm not sure it gets that deep.

My cover gasket came off in one piece...would you reuse it? I've read both ways...I could use it or used gray RTV.



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Now I have some questions:

Some of the bolts are behind the gears...and there is no lining them up with a gear window. How do you get to them? I can see the one bolt is behind the web of the gear, so no getting to it.

Another question about the cam bolts, what are they torqued to? I could probably look it in the FSM, but I'm not sure it gets that deep.

My cover gasket came off in one piece...would you reuse it? I've read both ways...I could use it or used gray RTV.



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Just get to the bolts you can, any 10mm bolt is torqued to 18 foot pounds, I’ve reused the gasket with some grey rtv and removed it altogether and just used rtv no gasket both worked just fine for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Some pictures...

I watched a video on the KDP fix, and the guy pointed out to use 1/4" drive sockets to get to the two case bolts behind the cam gear.

I'm hoping I can have it mostly assembled tonight...I have to clean everything, loc-tight the remaining bolts, install the new crank seal, etc...


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Discussion Starter #18
All but done, just need to torque the damper, install the fan, and fan shroud.

Went easier than I could have hoped...


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