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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my Ram2500 in to get some issues fixed. I asked them to update the programming on the truck for the newly added MOPAR trailer brake controller to be able to function in the EVIC. These yahoos told me I needed some other part that was $250 and $450 to install. Based upon what I've read on this and other forums this doesn't make any sense at all.

My truck has both harnesses that hooked up to the controller. Can anyone tell me what to tell the idiots to do?
 

· Toyota and Cummins Nut!
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Took my Ram2500 in to get some issues fixed. I asked them to update the programming on the truck for the newly added MOPAR trailer brake controller to be able to function in the EVIC. These yahoos told me I needed some other part that was $250 and $450 to install. Based upon what I've read on this and other forums this doesn't make any sense at all.

My truck has both harnesses that hooked up to the controller. Can anyone tell me what to tell the idiots to do?
They need to just add a "sales code" (3 letters) and turn it on I guess.

The controller workls perfect without it tied into the EVIC also. All the info you need is also just on the controller face.
 

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There's a single setting in the TIPM that indicates if the ITBM is present or not. No extra modules or anything. Either they're pulling a fast one or misunderstood since that's about what the unit would cost from them.
Dunno why you'd want it though. I had nasty problems with mine. Dangerously bad I would say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There's a single setting in the TIPM that indicates if the ITBM is present or not. No extra modules or anything. Either they're pulling a fast one or misunderstood since that's about what the unit would cost from them.
Dunno why you'd want it though. I had nasty problems with mine. Dangerously bad I would say.


What kind of problems did u have? I don't understand why u would have probs with a factory option
 

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What kind of problems did u have? I don't understand why u would have probs with a factory option
No off for starters, 0 is NOT off. Causes lockup on lightly loaded trailers (even when set to 0 which should be COMPLETELY off like every singly brake controller ever made, except this one). On my big 5er, pulling up to a stop sign even set on 0 the controller would practically lock up the brakes on the trailer causing the whole rig to get yanked to a pretty violent stop. And forget about trying to park/maneuver into a site with the damn thing hooked up, every time you even activate the brake lights it's like you just slammed on the trailer brakes.

Some people don't have problems, they seem to all be running older trailers. My only two theories are that with newer trailers and new magnets, wiring, etc, the brakes are needing far less power to operate effectively than what the controller will ever put out. And that it's assuming/reading the truck as stopped and applying "holding" brakes while the rig is still very much in motion. None of that excuses the lack of an off on the thing though. So mines disconnected with the TIPM set 'not present' so the EVIC doesn't whine.

I know quite a few others who've had similar or identical problems on here, and elsewhere. My local dealership says I'm the only one they know of whose had problems but I know from on here I'm not the only one. I haven't tried it on an older trailer, just my new 5er, and a brand new unloaded bumper pull flatbed (that was so dangerous I actually ran without the truck hooked up, anytime the trucks brakes were on at all the trailer was locked up.) -- 5th wheel works great with my Prodigy P2 in place of the ITBM though.
 

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I had my mopar brake controller installed. It does not show on the evic. It functions fine for me towing a 12,000 pound travel trailer. I have mine set on 9.0.
Trailers should be adjusted on dirt or gravel roads for proper brake controller calibration.
 

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At that price put in a better aftermaket controller like a Prodogy or maxbrake. The factory controller on mine was not good at all, put in a Prodogy and the trailer properly, no jerking , on too hard ,off too soft brakes that was evident with the factory controller.
 

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I am towing a 39 foot 5th wheel with mine and it works WONDERFUL. I was advised not to tee my plug in at the back of the bed due to issues with a bridge on the plugs. They put in an extension from the back plug to the bed and it works wonderful on a 5th wheel that scaled in at 12900 lbs so far. There was a new software update that was just uploaded to my truck 2 weeks ago.
 

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Was it set on light or heavy electric? I have a 1 year old flatbed and I haven't had a problem yet.
 

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I have a 2010 and my controler is crap ! Cranked full on it barely activates the trailer brakes but if you use the manual override it will lock up . Complained to dealer and they say nothing wrong with it , must be your trailer needs new brakes . My other truck with a prodigy controller works just fine hooked to that same trailer . I think the 2012's are better from what I hear , 2010's had alot of litttle bugs to get worked out . My park sensors never have worked through a winter . Buddy's 2012 has never had a problem with his .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So here's the update to the situation The dealer showed me a service bulliten where they couldnot program the ITBC to the truck because it was ordered by itself which costs $107 plus $8 for the bezel. They said I had to add this MOPAR Kit, and they gave me the part number and price of $223, so I researched the part and it is literally a "kit" with the ITBC, 2 color bezels, and 3 screws. How dumb are these bastards really! Plus they wanted $450 to install which literally takes 15 mins. I guess I'm just going to have to go to another dealer and tell them I already installed the "kit" and give them the instructions for the mopar kit that I printed off the internet. Why am I smarter than these "trained" mechanics?
 

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Most of the time you're dealing with people whose first job is to be a salesman, just like the banks, telephone companies, etc.
 

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I might add, if you dont tie it into your EVIC, then when you unplug it to hook up a much better one such as the Tekonsha, you wont get the warning message in your display. I installed the factory controller on my truck and never had it tied into the EVIC, glad, as I can use the Tekonsha without the warning message. The factory controller will work without being tied into the EVIC, the display on the controller will give you every warning the EVIC does, you just have to look down to see it.
 

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So here's the update to the situation The dealer showed me a service bulliten where they couldnot program the ITBC to the truck because it was ordered by itself which costs $107 plus $8 for the bezel. They said I had to add this MOPAR Kit, and they gave me the part number and price of $223, so I researched the part and it is literally a "kit" with the ITBC, 2 color bezels, and 3 screws. How dumb are these bastards really! Plus they wanted $450 to install which literally takes 15 mins. I guess I'm just going to have to go to another dealer and tell them I already installed the "kit" and give them the instructions for the mopar kit that I printed off the internet. Why am I smarter than these "trained" mechanics?
There is a difference in parts "sometimes". There is several classifications. (stupid, it just overcomplicates things) but there is "factory installed", then "Port Installed" and "dealer installed". Port and dealer installed acc can sometimes be the same parts.

But in this case, I dont think there is any difference. I did order the kit for mine, it came with 2 bezels and instructions. Was a breeze (15 minutes as you said) except on mine, I didnt have the smaller gray 4 pin connector (for some reason, a few 2010's ddint have the smaller gray connectro in place), I had to tie into my harness into the CAN+ and CAN- and a ground. Found a factory connector on ebay and wired it in.

I am very dissapointed in my controller. Would you have a copy of this TSB with info? Many times it will also explain on what they improved upon. I will check alldata for it too.
 

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I might add, if you dont tie it into your EVIC, then when you unplug it to hook up a much better one such as the Tekonsha, you wont get the warning message in your display. I installed the factory controller on my truck and never had it tied into the EVIC, glad, as I can use the Tekonsha without the warning message. The factory controller will work without being tied into the EVIC, the display on the controller will give you every warning the EVIC does, you just have to look down to see it.
I think on the 2012+ there's tuning knobs for electric-over-hydrualic enabled or not in the EVIC menu though. I haven't tried to locate and jump in one to see (mostly because I don't want to deal with a sales droid)
 

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I am very dissapointed in my controller. Would you have a copy of this TSB with info? Many times it will also explain on what they improved upon. I will check alldata for it too.
I'd be very intersted in this too (still following the thread)
 

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I think on the 2012+ there's tuning knobs for electric-over-hydrualic enabled or not in the EVIC menu though. I haven't tried to locate and jump in one to see (mostly because I don't want to deal with a sales droid)
Tell me where the knobs may be and I'll look when I get home.
 

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Tell me where the knobs may be and I'll look when I get home.
In the settings menu on the EVIC. Probably the one that's normally locked unless you're in park and stopped. There's a handful of things (like the hedlight delays, auto lock/unlock, etc) buried in there,a nd I think on 2012+ they added some extra trailer settings in there. I don't think it's attached to the Vehicle Info->trailer info display.
 

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It is selectable from light electric to heavy electric thru the DIC on the 2012 model.
Its true. Light or heavy electric or light or heavy electric over hydraulic .
 
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