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Trucks didn't get the hood badge until 2019, so your 2017 wouldn't have this issue. It seems like it is a kind of rare issue, or at least not super common. I'd wager a guess it's just some trucks had the badges installed from the factory.
My hood had water draining out of it on both sides, dealer replaced both badges and only one side leaks now. Time to go back with a copy of the above Star case number.
 

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I had this come up a couple months ago and somehow this thread didn't show up in my searches. I had pretty much figured water was getting in through those badges as there aren't any other openings than the drain holes in the back corners. Which are brilliantly located higher than most of the hood when it's not open LOL.

The badges are secured by clips. Carefully push a 90º pick under the badge to avoid scratching the paint and give it a firm tug. The badge will just pop out. You could put a strip of black electrical tape down to protect the paint if you don't trust your shaky hands.

The "gasket" is just a foam piece stuck to the badge. It's just like the foam gasket in the 3rd brake light that always leaks. I got some 1/2" wide, thin, 3M contact adhesive at the auto parts store. In hindsight, 1/4" wide would have been a better, cleaner fit. Although the 1/2" was the narrowest offered at the store so I used that. Scraped off the old foam gasket and reapplied the 3M tape, then popped the badges back in. No more water coming in.

Good news/bad news. The 3M tape is sticky on both sides. That probably improves the seal when you use it. However, removing those badges again will probably require a heat gun to soften the glue enough to release. I've used the same on 3rd brake lights and never needed to replace it again.
 

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I had this come up a couple months ago and somehow this thread didn't show up in my searches. I had pretty much figured water was getting in through those badges as there aren't any other openings than the drain holes in the back corners. Which are brilliantly located higher than most of the hood when it's not open LOL.

The badges are secured by clips. Carefully push a 90º pick under the badge to avoid scratching the paint and give it a firm tug. The badge will just pop out. You could put a strip of black electrical tape down to protect the paint if you don't trust your shaky hands.

The "gasket" is just a foam piece stuck to the badge. It's just like the foam gasket in the 3rd brake light that always leaks. I got some 1/2" wide, thin, 3M contact adhesive at the auto parts store. In hindsight, 1/4" wide would have been a better, cleaner fit. Although the 1/2" was the narrowest offered at the store so I used that. Scraped off the old foam gasket and reapplied the 3M tape, then popped the badges back in. No more water coming in.

Good news/bad news. The 3M tape is sticky on both sides. That probably improves the seal when you use it. However, removing those badges again will probably require a heat gun to soften the glue enough to release. I've used the same on 3rd brake lights and never needed to replace it again.
Thats fn pathetic that something this simple is a problem for companies that sell "trucks" for nearly a $100k that don't last very long.
 

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Thats fn pathetic that something this simple is a problem for companies that sell "trucks" for nearly a $100k that don't last very long.
If they cost a million $ they'd still have defects. Probably more at that price.

The first time I bought a new car I was really disappointed with the warranty work. Turns out buying used usually means the 1st owner already took care of all those bs problems before you came along. Now I set my expectations lower and everything that works right is upside.

This truck has been the least problematic of the 3 Rams I've had. None of the problems were worth a trip to the dealer and the associated waste of time. Sometimes I like that since I get to make sure it's done right. But I could see how someone who isn't able to do these minor repairs for whatever reason would seriously get put out over it. Especially a commercial user where downtime == lost revenue.
 

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Thats fn pathetic that something this simple is a problem for companies that sell "trucks" for nearly a $100k that don't last very long.
Those are the "simple" jobs they give to green engineers, right out of school. Those often cause the largest headaches. There are a lot of them out there who are book smart but their common sense is about as sharp as a spoon.
 
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If they cost a million $ they'd still have defects. Probably more at that price.

The first time I bought a new car I was really disappointed with the warranty work. Turns out buying used usually means the 1st owner already took care of all those bs problems before you came along. Now I set my expectations lower and everything that works right is upside.

This truck has been the least problematic of the 3 Rams I've had. None of the problems were worth a trip to the dealer and the associated waste of time. Sometimes I like that since I get to make sure it's done right. But I could see how someone who isn't able to do these minor repairs for whatever reason would seriously get put out over it. Especially a commercial user where downtime == lost revenue.
I do all my own work on my vehicles and for friends and family. My experience was not the same. All of my vehicles were for commercial oil patch use and the newer they were the more problems they had.
 
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I do all my own work on my vehicles and for friends and family. My experience was not the same. All of my vehicles were for commercial oil patch use and the newer they were the more problems they had.
Not much survives oil patch work. About the only thing I can think of that comes close to that level of abuse is can haulers.
 

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Not much survives oil patch work. About the only thing I can think of that comes close to that level of abuse is can haulers.
Regardless. They were all exposed to the same usage and my 14s 15 and 2017 were complete garbage.
My 3rd gens were the most reliable with the exception of the only one of the 4 that I owned had that pos 48RE in it.
Toyotas did well. Everyone that I knew that drove their half tons never had any issues with 300k + on them. If Toyota made a 1 ton thats what I'd be driving.
 
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If Toyota made a 1 ton thats what I'd be driving.
I believe they teased a 3/4 ton Tundra for a while there, which I followed the news religiously on that then gave up because I don't think it will ever happen. That would have been my choice too since I owned a Tacoma previous to this truck. But then again, they wouldn't have had a standard transmission option which would have been bad in my case, so I'd probably have to work some voodoo magic to get something in there.
 
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