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They need lubrication so they drop into place correctly.
 

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Is that like WD? Get both(all) sides of all pivots. Add grease soon. If it is due probably door hinges are too.
 

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Mine look the same. I've lubed them up but I'm sure they need to be adjusted. I'm planning on taking it to a body guy to help me with it as they will have a lot of experience with it as it will be a PITA doing it for the first time. You will need to unbolt the hinges and lower them slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am kinda picky about gaps in the body. I may take to a body shop too when I get closer to time to work on the body.

Ballistol is my go to oil, it has been around a very long time. I stopped using all of the designer weapons oils years ago. I keep this stuff on hand and all is good to go.

 

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How big is the gap and is it uneven from front to rear?
 

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Does the front move around at all up and down when fully latched? Half inch may be a bit much but only an 1/8 of an inch if that. There si suppsoed to be a gap so that sheet metal does not rub on sheet metal when the truck twists and rolls. It should only touch in the front latch, the two rubber front stops and the hinges, nowhere esle other than if there is a couple of rubber stops attached at the sides of the hood inside the edges.
Just looked at mine and a half is about right. Fender is shaped and painted white so not to show the crack a lot.
Front pads are adjustable to make the latch tight and use a #4 phillips ratchet.
 

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I have found dodge to be very hard to get right.
But what works as well as anything, is- to loosen hood bolts enough so the hood can be slid on them.
Remove the safety catch at the front and latch, close hood and move it around to best fit.
Open jut enough to tighten one bolt on each side
Also, there is a depth adjustment by adjust the bolt-on steel plate and the hinges themselves..
This will allow more shuffle to where you want it.
These are not EZ but you will win with patience.
dont forget to re-install your hood latches.
 
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