Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:hi:

Howdy! I know there are many of these threads already in the archives, but I didn't want to hijack someone else's thread.

Anyways, I am considering the purchase of my first diesel rig. What I am looking at is a 1992 250 Intercooled Cummins 4x4 with a 5-speed (getrag?). It looks like it was babied and only has 100k miles on it. They are asking $5000 and to me that seems like a HELL of a lot of truck for the money since it is in such excellent condition (at least appearance wise I have not driven it yet).

Its primary use will be for pulling a 20-23’ travel trailer. However, I would like to put some lockers and big ole tires on it for some 4x4ing!

Cons I have read about:

1. Getrag 5-speed

2. Frames are weak and prone to rust? <-a weak frame puts a damper in the 4x4 action how much better is the 94+ frame? This one is new to me, but I just read it in the forum here. This is really concerning to me.

3. Rusty Bodies


I have also considered a 94+ as well

Cons I have read about:

1.Front Dana 60 is CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) – Anyone have problems with this when offroading?

2.Terrible Automatic transmission

3.???

I appreciate any constructive feedback and if I need a flaming go for it!

Thanks! :hail:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I am by no means an expert, but I have a 91 350 with the getrag 5 speed.

Mine has 170k on it and was falling out of 5th gear, so I took it out and am in the process of rebuilding it. I have heard alot of negitive things about this tranny, but I really don't think its all that bad. Mine does not appear to have ever been out before, and after 170k miles, it has a badly worn bearing where the input meets the main shaft and a worn pilot bushing and 5th gear appears to have pushed a bearing forward and now is able to move back and forth on the shaft a bit. Otherwise it looks like a heavy duty transmission.

If the truck your looking at only has 100k on it and has been babied and not abused, I wouldn't be afrid of it. I don't think its the best tranny to abuse if you want to put in alot of power mods and spin the tires and stuff, but if you are just planning to use the truck under normal conditions, I think its an alright product. I would reccomend over filling it with oil. Check the forums here for more on that.

I'd run away from the truck with the auto in it....

My frame isn't overly rusty. My truck has spent its life in MN as far as I know too. Where are they supposed to get weak at? Thats a new one to me.

My body is only rusty along the top of the windsheild on the passanger side. I think alot of this has to do with the fact that the last owner washed it alot and sprayed oil on it during the winter.

$5000 bucks sounds like a fair price to me. I payed $4000 for mine and it needed exhust, rear brakes and a radiator. So after all that I have atleast 5k in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Awesome! Thanks for the reply. I read the weak frame information from a thread in here, but there really was not reason.

How difficult is it to rebuilt the getrag? I was looking at a rebuild kit for around $250. With a TH350 or 700R4 there are even videos that show you step by step. Transmission work is really the only thing that scares me.....that and body work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
896 Posts
If you live in an area that is not rust prone you shouldn't have any issue's with it. On the trannie, they don't like to be bogged down, especially if you are pulling a load, you want to stay above about 1500 rpm. Other than that the getrags really aren't bad trannie's. The NV4500's that come in the new trucks lose 5th gear more commonly. I was looking at newer trucks before I bought the one I did. For me price was a big deciding factor, and the old trucks are just tougher looking.
 

·
I bleed Diesel
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
the engine weight was tomuch for the frames on the first gens so if you hit a deep rut it would twist the frame a little. They could bend alt because the truck was made for a 300pd motor an has a 2500pd. lol. But they arnt that bad. I would say the autos arnt that bad. the 727 was a great trans the 518 was ok. Myne has 190k an i abuse it. I mean it robs power. I am putting a 5 speed in this weekend. I would say it is worth 5 grand if it is a fully loaded extended cab. i wouldnt give 5 grand for a truck with crank windows and no back seat. I paid 4500 for my 93 350 extended auto.2wd with 170k i then put 5 in it to make it more bad but it was ready to go for 4500. I would say rust on the bodys is bad but a gas truck with perfect body is 300 bucks and easy swap. frame rust is very bad stay away from that.lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
i've heard nothing but good about the getrag i have one in my truck 200,000+ miles :doh: odometer quit working awhile ago and i beat the piss out of mine daily and the whole truck is holding up amazing and it is 1990 it does tend to slip out of 3rd but very rarely but what do you expect i can't blame the truck its been amazing! my body is good but i did have a 93 that was completely rusted out but i have never heard anything bad about the frames.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
The frame issue wasn't due to rust (although they CAN have rust issues, I don't believe it's a primary concern). The frame issue were due to the combination of a 3000# engine AND 400+lb ft of torque. The very early first gens ran regular 3/4 and 1 ton frames, which eventually started to fatique. So reinforcements were added somtime around 90. Then again in 92, the frame size increased.

As for a 300# engine... :laugh: Even the small blocks weigh more than that...but the substantial CTD weight addition is still a valid issue.:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
How difficult is it to rebuilt the getrag?
Well, I am only half way there, but so far it hasn't been too bad. I happen to have a lift, so that made removal of it alot easier, but if you read here, alot of guys have done it on the ground with the truck on jack stands.

You will need a press and bearing splitter to take the mainshaft apart.

There is a PDF file of the getrag rebuild manual online. I don't have it handy, but if you decide to rebuild it and can't find a manual, let me know and I will send it to you.

I paid $252 for my rebuild kit.

If the transmission seems okay, I personally wouldn't rush into doing anything with it.
 

·
I bleed Diesel
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
The frame issue wasn't due to rust (although they CAN have rust issues, I don't believe it's a primary concern). The frame issue were due to the combination of a 3000# engine AND 400+lb ft of torque. The very early first gens ran regular 3/4 and 1 ton frames, which eventually started to fatique. So reinforcements were added somtime around 90. Then again in 92, the frame size increased.

As for a 300# engine... :laugh: Even the small blocks weigh more than that...but the substantial CTD weight addition is still a valid issue.:thumbsup:
lol i was talking bare block. lol .. lol. i was just exagurating
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
I'll put any of my Getrags (that I have set up) up against a stock NV4500 for durability and longevity. They dont like to be lugged (already covered), and they need lots of oil (5qts, change every 20Kmi). If it shifts and runs good, I wouldnt bother with taking it out.

Sound like you got a good deal. The only other thing I can think of is that the Dana70 rear diffs will sometimes puke shims for no apparent reason. Plus the normal issues with a 17 year old truck.

The Cummins B-series weighs 1000# or so dry, less flywheel. Still a lot heavier than the big block gassers, even. Drive it sanely, and you wont have any frame issues. I know a few guys with over 500K on their trucks.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
The only issue I can add that you should look for is cowl cracks. My hi miler has cracked on the passenger side but I would not expect a low mile babied truck to have thus issue. Yet :doh: There is a good pic of a repaired cowl in the truck pics thread in the non powertrain section.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
642 Posts
I'd say thats a very decent price for a low miler like that. I paid 4500 for mine, put 1000 into the front end and she's good to go. If you get it, drain the tranny and refil with fresh oil. Then pop your shifter cover off and dump in an extra quart of something like lucas oil treatment or whatever and you'll be allright. I was thinking about doing the NV4500 conversion but there's nothing wrong with my 360 so I'll just wait and do an NV5600 conversion next year...and twins...and...ha ha. Always something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
:yourock:

Well thanks so much for all the great info! But......I hesitated for too long and it already sold. I guess I will know better next time! I will keep looking. :doh:
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top