[Stox225]

So I’m on a Jeep TJ Forum as well and some guy just put in $35 worth of some stuff in his TJ from Home Depot? I know what we ALL recommend as the approved sound deadening stuff for our trucks, but I’m sure it’s gotta make a difference. I think i’m gunna try it. Gotta rip out the floor anyway. If I can get it as quiet as a CR, I’d be happy haha.

It’s foil tape by U.S. Seal apparently. 2 rolls is 25 sq. ft. Cheaper than Dynamat!


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[9297oldram]

I've seen people use the bubble stuff with the foil on both sides, is that what your talking about?

 

[Stox225]

No clue yet lol. That’s all the guy had posted. U.S. Seal makes it. You can get it at Home Depot bear roofing stuff. I’m gunna check it out tomorrow.


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[24hrsparkey]

Its a foil faced rubber mastic ,, comes in a lil roll .

Works great on a budget , sound deadning and heat stays in cab longer . My son used a ton of it , inside doors , back of cab wall and floor .
It works pretty well .
However the thicker name brand stuff may be better .

 

[seafish]

FYI--
foil backed asphaltic based flashing used for sealing windows and doors is NOT near as effective as a butyl rubber based product specifically designed as a constrained layer damper (CLD) tile to lower the resonance of sheet metal when properly applied to the correct places. Also importantly, if you happen to live in a hot climate and/or park your truck in the sun where internal door temps can reach elevated levels, the asphaltic based products will fail and slide down inside your door leaving you with a gooey mess to eventually clean up while doing absolutely nothing to control panel resonance since out is no longer attached to the panel where you thought you had stuck it.

That being said, there are, in fact, significant differences in effectiveness even between CLD products sold for car audio use. DynaMat, the most commonly used brand, is one of the least effective, but the KnuKoncpetz Kolossus brand (hokey as the name may be and sold though Amazon) is one of the most effective in lowering panel resonance. This conclusion, is as noted by a TLTR research thread on diyma.com

Also importantly, do know you do NOT need to use a CLD at 100% coverage, but rather stick some in the center of flat panels at up to 30% coverage for it to be most effective. While you CAN use more CLD tiles, its rate of effectiveness at lowering the panel resonance and vibrations becomes less cost effective at over 30%, so it becomes a waste of your hard earned dollars.

That being said, and MUCH more importantly, while you are doing the CLD application, using an additional layer of CCF (closed cell foam) and then MLV (mass loaded vinyl) will SUBSTANTIALLY quiet down the interior of truck and make it a MUCH better listening environment, instead of only making your doors a lot heavier!! (LOL)

If you want to read more on how to do it RIGHT, check out the "how-to" section of the website sounddeadenershowdown.com.

NOTE-- I have nothing to do with the business, and you do NOT have to buy his products, which ARE fairly expensive, but know that if you DO buy from Don at SDS, you will be buying the best made products for the job and they are backed by solid performance, great packaging and top shelf customer service as well.

 

[24hrsparkey]

good info .
just to clarify :
The Depot stuff my son used was foil faced butyl rubber , just a tad thinner than the high dollar stuff i have seen.

 

[seafish]

good info .
just to clarify :
The Depot stuff my son used was foil faced butyl rubber , just a tad thinner than the high dollar stuff i have seen.

Turn him on to the KnuKonceptz Kolosussus stuff and the SDS website, ...if he is truly into car audio, he will thank you eventually!!!

 

[95Ram3500Rusted]

This is what i used. Worked really well to take the hallow drum sound out of the follow and back wall under the window.

Had some left over after putting it on the whole floor, firewall under dash back wall, inside the extended cab sides and added to what was already in the doors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my understanding of the home depot asphalt based stuff was the toxic fumes that it will give off.

 

[Stox225]

Well the stuff at Home Depot doesn’t have asphalt in it. It’s a rubber composite I believe. The stuff I posted actually wasn’t even at Home Depot when I checked last weekend. There was some other brand. I should have taken a picture. But that wasn’t asphalt based.

Edit: Disregard. It’s asphalt based lol.

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[seafish]

Well the stuff at Home Depot doesn’t have asphalt in it. It’s a rubber composite I believe. The stuff I posted actually wasn’t even at Home Depot when I checked last weekend. There was some other brand. I should have taken a picture. But that wasn’t asphalt based.

Edit: Disregard. It’s asphalt based lol.

LOL!!!

There are now BOTH asphalt based and butyl rubber based flashings available at building supply stores!!!

The butyl based flashing is definitely a step up from the asphalt based simply because of its resistance to extreme heat. That being said, while either of them will allow a door to close with satisfying thunk, NEITHER of them are as effective as some of the products specific for car audio that are designed to lower the resonant frequency of vehicle panels.

Well over half the work and/or expense of applying sound deadening is in the labor of removing everything from the vehicle and prepping and achieving a clean and solid install and then puttingeverything back together again!!! So that being said, why bother with a product that might be slightly cheaper then but is not as effective as the CLD tiles designed for car audio as tested independently.

Again, there really is no beating the KnuKoncetz Kolossus sheets from Amazon for the money, or the CLD tiles from Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com if you can spend a little more!!!

 

[Muzzy]

I did the inside of my doors with the stuff from Home Depot. It is made by Frost King. However, Home Depot doesn't sell it anymore. I found it over on the Lowe's site: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King...MI6am1ucPf3gIVzcDACh0_UA0VEAQYASABEgI4rfD_BwE

It worked pretty well for me. It made it quieter in the cab and seemed to insulate better.

-Muzzy

 

[bherman13]

Again, there really is no beating the KnuKoncetz Kolossus sheets from Amazon for the money, or the CLD tiles from Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com if you can spend a little more!!!

Amazon seems to have a slew of brands of similar stuff to the KnuKonceptz Kolossus that you're referencing. There's Siless, Noico, Kilmat, etc. Some at slightly better value.

Does anyone know if any of these brands have been tested somewhere? Is there a chance they're all made by the same company and just have different "brands"?

Some of these brands are very near in value to the Frost King Duct Insulation that always gets referenced on this topic. I'd rather buy something intended for automotive use, though, to be sure the adhesive can withstand the temperatures a car interior reaches on hot days. Frost King themselves have stated not to use this for cars because it is "not rated for automotive environments". Take that information however you will.

I did the inside of my doors with the stuff from Home Depot. It is made by Frost King. However, Home Depot doesn't sell it anymore. I found it over on the Lowe's site: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King...MI6am1ucPf3gIVzcDACh0_UA0VEAQYASABEgI4rfD_BwE

It worked pretty well for me. It made it quieter in the cab and seemed to insulate better.

-Muzzy

I walked past the Frost King in my local Home Depot over the weekend, so it may be found on a store-by-store basis. Or maybe they just don't sell it online anymore.


Edit: A quick Google search shows that Noico, Kilmat, and Mat 66 are all under the same umbrella of STP Atlantic. Kilmat is currently cheaper on Amazon, but Noico is their "#1 seller" for some reason.

 

[95Ram3500Rusted]

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1175737-my-sound-reduction-odyssey.html


My reason for the stuff i picked up on Amazon was highly scientific... it had the most reviews.

The brand i bought once you press/roll it, its not coming off.

I did mine in the summer and the heat just makes it stick even better.

 

[seafish]

Amazon seems to have a slew of brands of similar stuff to the KnuKonceptz Kolossus that you're referencing. There's Siless, Noico, Kilmat, etc. Some at slightly better value.

Does anyone know if any of these brands have been tested somewhere? .

The Noico/STP brand is like the "dynamat" of Europe and "dynamat" is like the "Kleenex" of CLD.

There is in fact a MTLTR thread started by a member of diyma forum that tested MANY different brands for both adhesive resistance to temperature and also panel resonance change. I'll see if I can find a link for you, but my recommendations of the SDS tiles being best at reducing panel resonance and the Kolossus being a close second and less expensive are based on that testing.

IMO, "best seller" or "recommended" by Amazon is not necessailryt indicative of quality as much as value and/or hype.

 

[95Ram3500Rusted]

IMO, "best seller" or "recommended" by Amazon is not necessailryt indicative of quality as much as value and/or hype.

well the reviews had great pictures :grin2:

 

[seafish]

Just quoting a recent post from another thread on another forum for those of you who still might thinking about using a home building, or even a cheap car audio, products that more or less LOOK the same as a quality CLD, but clearly are NOT the same!!!

"... I recently had the "pleasure" of wasting 9 hours removing the cheap no-brand CLD tiles I used to seal my front doors. This nasty sticky stuff melted and ran into everything including speakers, locking mechanism and window hoist ."

 

[Muzzy]

I have had the Frost King stuff installed for over a year. I have had no issues with it melting or causing problems. It is an adhesive backed insulating foam with foil on one side. I was able to do all my doors on my mega cab for under $40.

I am pretty sure that Dynamat or something similar that is specifically made for cars is better. However, I can't justify the cost. If Frost King got me 80% there compared to Dynamat for under $40. I am good with that. I would would rather spend the money I saved on performance upgrades. That's just me. It depends how deep your pockets are and priorities.

-Muzzy

 

[bherman13]

I have had the Frost King stuff installed for over a year. I have had no issues with it melting or causing problems. It is an adhesive backed insulating foam with foil on one side. I was able to do all my doors on my mega cab for under $40.

I am pretty sure that Dynamat or something similar that is specifically made for cars is better. However, I can't justify the cost. If Frost King got me 80% there compared to Dynamat for under $40. I am good with that. I would would rather spend the money I saved on performance upgrades. That's just me. It depends how deep your pockets are and priorities.

-Muzzy

What's important is that the Frost King you're using remains stuck even in high temps. I think there's a lot of confusion between Peel-n-Seal and Frost King as the no-name brands. Peel-n-Seal is an asphalt based product that smells and melts and gets black stuff everywhere. Frost King is a butyl based product, like the name brands, but there is no overwhelming consensus whether it can handle the extreme temperatures of a hot summer day.

The fact that you say it's worked for you might be a relief to some people who were looking into the duct insulation route. Others will still be convinced to go with the name brand automotive products for peace of mind. It takes so much time to get the whole dash out, so I can understand wanting to use a product that doesn't even have a shade of doubt that it'll work for a long time.

How high do temperatures get in summer where you live? Does your truck sit outside in the heat or is it garaged?

 

[Kmehr]

If you're going to rip up the floor anyways, I highly recommend a horse stall mat under the carpet. You can get them super cheap at any farm store. That far and away made more of a difference than anything else I did on my old first gen noise wise. They make all manner of thicknesses. Just use some good 3M glue and clean the floor metal really well.

 

[Muzzy]

What's important is that the Frost King you're using remains stuck even in high temps. I think there's a lot of confusion between Peel-n-Seal and Frost King as the no-name brands. Peel-n-Seal is an asphalt based product that smells and melts and gets black stuff everywhere. Frost King is a butyl based product, like the name brands, but there is no overwhelming consensus whether it can handle the extreme temperatures of a hot summer day.

The fact that you say it's worked for you might be a relief to some people who were looking into the duct insulation route. Others will still be convinced to go with the name brand automotive products for peace of mind. It takes so much time to get the whole dash out, so I can understand wanting to use a product that doesn't even have a shade of doubt that it'll work for a long time.

How high do temperatures get in summer where you live? Does your truck sit outside in the heat or is it garaged?

My rig is garaged most of the time. I live in Iowa and we do see upper 90's and occasionally 100 degrees in the summer.

I ran across some posts and videos of people using the Frost King product with good results. I figured I would try it on my doors (it is just plastic 3 mil sheeting from the factory behind the door panel stuck in place with a tar strip). I can take a door apart in 5 minutes, so I wouldn't be out much in time or money if it didn't work. It worked as good as other people have reported. I do have less road noise and it does seem to insulate a little better. My priorities were to have some improvement over stock without spending hundreds of dollars. I achieved that goal and put the money I saved to my 2nd gen swap.

-Muzzy