[Mopar1973Man]

Ok Gang!

I got it built and man that is killer to be able to kick high idle at anytime now. There is a few lock outs that you must be aware of too.

I'll get better pics in the daylight...

Ok... Here is the down and dirty on it... With all switches in the off position everything is normal. But if you start a cold engine you can flip the IAT fooler and select the mode you want to run (high or 3 cyl). Once the high idle is started turn the IAT fooler off allow the sensor to monitor manifold temps. I added a ECT fooler too and that work great too. I can fool the ECU to think the coolant is 123*F and re-kick the high idle software again. But like I found out if the software has already ran 1 cycle it will not start again. So to kick it hot you need to shutdown the engine and re-start software will activate...

WARNING: Using either IAT or ECT fooler disables the ECM/PCM from seeing the true signal from the sensors so beware you could potential overheat the engine if left on with ECT fooler on. IAT fooler should be turn off as soon as the program start to keep timing correct.

 

[billow99]

wow nice setup

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Even nicer when you can pull 850*F worth of EGT temp high idling 3 cylinder mode and be completely warm (> 170*F) in less than 10 Minutes! :thud:

High Idle

Or...

YouTube - IAT Fooler and High Idle

Just watch the video it will blow your mind how fast it warms up a engine with 3 cylinder mode and a exhaust brake! :w:

 

[wjbell]

Pretty cool setup... Just wondering what is the purpose of 3 cyl idle? and would it do any damage in the long run using it?

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Pretty cool setup... Just wondering what is the purpose of 3 cyl idle? and would it do any damage in the long run using it?

Both the high idle and 3 cylinder is a software that is enbedded in the Cummins ECU. By factory default the software is DISABLED but with a Smarty or Dodge DRB tool it can be enabled.

Here is the Dodge TSB...
Dodge TSB

As for using the 3 cylinder or high idle there is no ill-effects to using either one. People in the frozen north have this software and have been using it for a long time. I'm on the boundary area here in Idaho we might get temps as low as -20*F and like today it 45*F so the factory software requires the IAT to see temps below 32*F with grid heater running... That's really tough.

But when I use the fooler(s) (ECT and IAT) I can fool it to start the software once started then turn the fooler(s) off and the sensors function as normal and the software will continue to run till something cancels it. (Service brake, movement, coolant temp > 170*F, etc.)

Like for me I work with the local fire dept and a lot of times I get called to vehicle accidents and will use my warning lights so the engine must remain running but on cold winter days the software will NOT start if the coolant is above 140*F. So now I can fool the sensor to kick high ilde and keep the alternator going and pyrometer warm! :thumbsup

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Update pics of the setup...

 

[oudive]

That is pretty sweet set up. Like what you did with the switches. If I was not in Florida and someplace cold, I would be seeing what all I would need for the hook up. Great stuff. Looks great.

 

[rbmchief]

nice write up man, mind if we put it in the tech section after a few days?

 

[Mopar1973Man]

nice write up man, mind if we put it in the tech section after a few days?

Sure... Here in a few days I'll have the complete write up on how to do it on my web site as well. I need to grab my notes and get the resistor values then I'll redraw the schematic and clean it up...

It will be located here...
High Idle

As for trying out today... I went down to Riggins to help a buddy out and parked my truck at his place and left in his. When I returned back I kick the IAT fooler and left it for normal high idle. I also kicked the exhaust brake and went back in the house. Mind you it only 45*F outside and I said goodbye by the time I got back to the truck it was at 160*F of coolant and the pyro was at 600*F. I could of waited the extra 2 minutes but I canceled it by tapping the throttle and cruise off... No more cold starts and waiting for heat on cold mornings. I can even leave it outside unplugged now! :thumbsup

EDIT: I'll even draw up a operation manual for this and explain how everything works on my web page...

 

[409Cummins]

you my friend are a wiring bada$$

 

[DodgeCummins98]

This is something I'm definitely interested in! Nice job! Can't wait to see the complete detailed write up.:thumbsupopcorn:

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Since the post are coming in thumb up I guess I better get busy on my write up...:thud::rof:lol3:

 

[kscumminsdriver]

as soon as you get the write up done, I'll be whipping out the soldering iron....

I bet you could make a few pennies selling prewired kits on the various boards...

 

[Mopar1973Man]

you my friend are a wiring bada$$

When you got a 4 year degree from ITT Tech and been a Computer tech for 20 years you can see the logic of the ECM really quickly and figure out neat little tricks like this one!

Thanks for the comments... :beer

I'm going to post a few of these comment on my web site as well...:lol3:
Comments

as soon as you get the write up done, I'll be whipping out the soldering iron....

I bet you could make a few pennies selling prewired kits on the various boards...

As a matter of fact a few have already sent me emails asking if I would be willing to build it again... :thud:

 

[7492]

Even nicer when you can pull 850*F worth of EGT temp high idling 3 cylinder mode and be completely warm (> 170*F) in less than 10 Minutes! :thud:

High Idle

Or...

YouTube - IAT Fooler and High Idle

Just watch the video it will blow your mind how fast it warms up a engine with 3 cylinder mode and a exhaust brake! :w:

All that great toys one would think you could fool the check engine light to go off....:rof:thud::T:

 

[Mopar1973Man]

All that great toys one would think you could fool the check engine light to go off....:rof:thud::T:

That was a resistor mistake on the coolant sensor. I mis-read the DVM and put in the wrong one it drove the coolant gauge to MAX trip the CHECK GAGES light and set a DTC for coolant over temp... I felt like a true dummy... But Now I got the right values... I should of used mt ScanGauge II and clear the code...:lol3:

 

[speed185187]

That is awesome. I'll be accuring the parts shortly to make this my next mod. Outstanding work.:thumbsup:thumbsup

 

[DodgeCummins98]

as soon as you get the write up done, I'll be whipping out the soldering iron....

I bet you could make a few pennies selling prewired kits on the various boards...

I would probably buy one.:thumbsup

 

[SmokinRam01]

awsome job Mopar:thumbsup..........you and kcummins need to bump heads and make the prewire kit............you can put me down for 1:beer:woot:

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Well I did a cram session to get the information up on my web site. I got most of the important stuff up as I test this out I'll continue to update my web page with more information.

High Idle

The update wiring diagram with resistor values I used...