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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m new here I hope this is the right thread. Whenever I turn my headlights on I only have my highbeams. If I try to change them with the mfs nothing happens they just stay on highbeams. It’s a 1999 2500 with the single headlight bulb on each side.
 

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Welcome, Did it happen all at once or one at a time or did you buy it that way. Did you check bulbs? Low beams usually burn out first. There are separate fuses and relays for high and low too.
 

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You need a multimeter, about 30-40 bucks at Harbor or Autozone. Start at bulb socket. Look for juice with switches on and for ground on other wire/pin. Se which is missing , juice or ground. If good ground an don juice start your way back through wires, multifunction switch, fuses and relays and light switch. You can start on either end. light o rmultifunction switches may show heat marks on them. look for grounds with ohm meter, look for juice with DC voltmeter or just a test light.
You can also test for ground using a hot wire to the test light clip and touch to ground.
 

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2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic
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I’m new here I hope this is the right thread. Whenever I turn my headlights on I only have my highbeams. If I try to change them with the mfs nothing happens they just stay on highbeams. It’s a 1999 2500 with the single headlight bulb on each side.
I see you are in Canada, so your truck has a daytime running light module.
I had same thing occur as you a long time ago & it was the DRLModule had failed.

It's located on the left fender shield.
I saw it was leaking a tiny bit of some form of oil out of it.
At the time I couldn't find a replacement part for it other than at the Dodge dealer, so that's where I bought it from, It's rather pricey.



I see I have this note in the numerous truck documents I make, It probably originated from this forum.
I didn't try this myself, but give it a shot and see what happens.
"if the DRLM is faulty you can unplug it, and lights will revert to normal EXCEPT the hi-beam indicator will not work"
 

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These headlamp switches all go bad, every one of them.
but they seem to all do it in a slightly different style .
So it could be that, the high and low switch, and if ground is involved I would bet on that
 
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In my 98.5 the headlight switch burned out when I put higher output head light bulbs in. The best thing to do is install relays so the headlight switch in the dash doesn't see the full voltage from your headlights.
Before tearing too deep into anything I would pull the headlight switch in the dash out and look at the back side of it. Mine was heat distorted when I pulled it out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I see you are in Canada, so your truck has a daytime running light module.
I had same thing occur as you a long time ago & it was the DRLModule had failed.

It's located on the left fender shield.
I saw it was leaking a tiny bit of some form of oil out of it.
At the time I couldn't find a replacement part for it other than at the Dodge dealer, so that's where I bought it from, It's rather pricey.



I see I have this note in the numerous truck documents I make, It probably originated from this forum.
I didn't try this myself, but give it a shot and see what happens.
"if the DRLM is faulty you can unplug it, and lights will revert to normal EXCEPT the hi-beam indicator will not work"
Checked the DRLM, nothing changed other than my high beam indicator not working
 

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2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic
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DRLModule appears to be OK.
Because your headlights do turn on with the dash switch I would assume it is OK.
The multi-function switch controls the high/low beam change so that is the new part I would throw at the problem.
 

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DRLModule appears to be OK.
Because your headlights do turn on with the dash switch I would assume it is OK.
The multi-function switch controls the high/low beam change so that is the new part I would throw at the problem.
Just throw parts thats the dummest idea. He should test the part not just hail Mary replace it. Dont be a parts cannon mechanic
 

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2000 Ram 2500 24v SLT Laramie 4x4, 47re automatic
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Just throw parts thats the dummest idea. He should test the part not just hail Mary replace it. Dont be a parts cannon mechanic
LOL, in this case I don't consider it a hail mary but rather lean towards a completed pass.
It's a $50 part that commonly fails, not some big ticket item.
Easy enough to do the two high/low beam continuity tests on the multi switch but personally if I'm going to go through the bother of taking that inexpensive bit out I'm going to put a new one back in anyway.
 

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LOL, in this case I don't consider it a hail mary but rather lean towards a completed pass.
It's a $50 part that commonly fails, not some big ticket item.
Easy enough to do the two high/low beam continuity tests on the multi switch but personally if I'm going to go through the bother of taking that inexpensive bit out I'm going to put a new one back in anyway.
Really depends on peoples finances not everyone can afford to do that. As a former mechanic i would see it all the time with people who can afford to just wing it and replace things. I agree it is likely the switch if the bulbs are the correct bulbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LOL, in this case I don't consider it a hail mary but rather lean towards a completed pass.
It's a $50 part that commonly fails, not some big ticket item.
Easy enough to do the two high/low beam continuity tests on the multi switch but personally if I'm going to go through the bother of taking that inexpensive bit out I'm going to put a new one back in anyway.
Changed the MFS. Not the problem. I tested it without the bulbs and it functions normally and let’s me change between high and low beams. As soon as I put bulbs in, Led or halogen it returns to high beams
 

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What are both bulb numbers?
 
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