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^^ Thanks for the further info!
Unfortunately, I can't read your mind and I can't read my wife's mind. :)


So the 2004 turbo is quite different from the 2004.5 turbo. It's smaller and has a mechanical wastegate while the larger 2004.5 turbo has an electric wastegate.
I strongly recommend to use the larger 2004.5 turbo. Better performance and the electronic wastegate will plug right into the 2004.5 engine harness.

Take a bunch of pictures of the 2004.5 engine and engine harness and then move that harness to the 2004 engine.
The 2 harnesses have minimal differences, route nearly identically with minor support clamp changes.

The 2004 engine is identically externally to the 2004.5 engine and will drop right in.


Great to hear you are aware of the ECM programming changes to accommodate the different pistons and injector nozzles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
^^ Thanks for the further info!
Unfortunately, I can't read your mind and I can't read my wife's mind. :)


So the 2004 turbo is quite different from the 2004.5 turbo. It's smaller and has a mechanical wastegate while the larger 2004.5 turbo has an electric wastegate.
I strongly recommend to use the larger 2004.5 turbo. Better performance and the electronic wastegate will plug right into the 2004.5 engine harness.

Take a bunch of pictures of the 2004.5 engine and engine harness and then move that harness to the 2004 engine.
The 2 harnesses have minimal differences, route nearly identically with minor support clamp changes.

The 2004 engine is identically externally to the 2004.5 engine and will drop right in.


Great to hear you are aware of the ECM programming changes to accommodate the different pistons and injector nozzles.
Yes I’ve taken quite a few pictures but the harness looks like a rats nest with multiple connectors going each way lol. As far as the turbo I’m aware of the differences and plan on rebuilding my blown he351 that I have (or just getting a drop 64/67) and running the 341 temporarily. I’m not going to be towing right away and will hardly get into boost as a daily. At least until I stud it and upgrade the pushrods, etc for more reliability vs power. This engine was just meant to be a complete drop in replacement for my windowed 2004.5. I wasn’t even aware it was a 2004 until I did some research and it was too late to hold off for a 2004.5. Tuning I went through mm3 and he assured me it’ll run correctly with that. Thanks for getting back to me in a kindly manner. This whole thing has been super stressful and a huge learning curve but I’m hoping when I get the engine in between tomorrow and Thursday it’ll all have been worth it. Thanks again!
 

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I can’t see the bolts and I’m pretty sure my crank grenaded when I sent a rod through the block last year. I’ll have to give that a shot.
Hey all. Finally got it out. Dropped the pan, removed the caps so I could get access, and sure enough the injector flooded the cylinder and rocketed the piston bending the rod. My rod was completely bent up next to the wall of the block and crank. I was able to stick a ratchet between the crank and top of the rod and a good whack and it came loose. After that I was able to rotate the whole thing by the flywheel. Now time to swap the harness and install the new engine🤙🏻
You might want to remove what you can from the old block. I'm betting sooner or later those parts might come in handy.
 

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As mentioned earlier, there is always a chance of damaging the pump and seal when you removed engine with TC still attached. For grins and giggles I would put a front pump shaft seal in while the engine was out. May save you from removing trans in a few days.
 

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Wiring is split in two pieces. Main engine harness goes on engine to FCA, WIF sensor/fuel heater, Injectors, coolant sensor, AC Compressor, and turbo wastegate (tape to protect since it will be disconnected).

The other harness with the other ECM plug runs to a square connector that hangs above ECM. That square connector is what connects both engine harnesses.

From there, it runs rearward behind fuel filter.

Then it branches to a few connectors that interconnect with transmission harness. Those connectors sit on top of bell housing.

After that, the engine harness runs up to the cowl near the master reservoir to the two connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
As mentioned earlier, there is always a chance of damaging the pump and seal when you removed engine with TC still attached. For grins and giggles I would put a front pump shaft seal in while the engine was out. May save you from removing trans in a few days.
Just this seal right?
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The 2 threads are confusing. Perhaps the mods can combine them?



A1Moto, perhaps post up some pics. Truck, engine bay, old engine, new engine, etc.
The more pics you post will also help folks post up recommendations.
 
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Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Quick question for y’all. Found this hose/connector laying over top of the trans. Don’t exactly know if it hooks up to anything or what.
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Also what is the correct plug connector order for the wiring harness to the 3 injector plugs? Only thing I have left and don’t exactly know how it routes.
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Transmission vent line. While it’s down & accessible, check the hose to make sure it’s not plugged. Also check the vent cap. Zip tie it up high when done
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Transmission vent line. While it’s down & accessible, check the hose to make sure it’s not plugged. Also check the vent cap. Zip tie it up high when done
Any idea where this hose goes? It’s hooked up to this box that’s hooked up to the auto transmission unit that sits on top of the engine
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Also there’s these plugs and I’m having trouble remembering where they go
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That’s the cruise servo. The small hose connects to a vacuum reservoir inside the cowl. From the reservoir, there’s a hose that goes the the cruise vacuum pump behind passenger battery.
View attachment 938719




3 pin connector is an unused connector. It should have a empty plug in it, but if you don’t have it, just tape it up.
View attachment 938720



That is the APPS connector.
View attachment 938721
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
That’s the cruise servo. The small hose connects to a vacuum reservoir inside the cowl. From the reservoir, there’s a hose that goes the the cruise vacuum pump behind passenger battery.
View attachment 938719




3 pin connector is an unused connector. It should have a empty plug in it, but if you don’t have it, just tape it up.
View attachment 938720



That is the APPS connector.
View attachment 938721
So I’m assuming if I don’t have the servo hooked up I won’t have cruise? As for the apps where does that plug in to exactly? And I have 2 more on the other side but I’m assuming one that’s green and by the filter is for the he 351 solenoid which I’m not running and the other coming off the alternator cable is the maf? (Bottom right plug first pic)
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So I’m assuming if I don’t have the servo hooked up I won’t have cruise? As for the apps where does that plug in to exactly? And I have 2 more on the other side but I’m assuming one that’s green and by the filter is for the he 351 solenoid which I’m not running and the other coming off the alternator cable is the maf? (Bottom right plug first pic) View attachment 938732
View attachment 938731
Yes you won’t have cruise if incorrectly installed.

APPS is the accelerator sensor. The big one in front of intake manifolds with black plastic cover. The six pin connector plugs underneath.


Green seal 2 pin connector on RH side of engine is for HE351. Fill with dialectic grease and cover.

Other connectors on RH side include: Alternator, A/C compressor, IAT sensor (on intake tube).
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yes you won’t have cruise if incorrectly installed.

APPS is the accelerator sensor. The big one in front of intake manifolds with black plastic cover. The six pin connector plugs underneath.


Green seal 2 pin connector on RH side of engine is for HE351. Fill with dialectic grease and cover.

Other connectors on RH side include: Alternator, A/C compressor, IAT sensor (on intake tube).
Sweet. Seems like I’ve got it all pretty much correct. I’m doing this all by myself and I’ve never really done more than an oil change before and simple wrenching so this is all new to me lol
 

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Don’t worry, we all start somewhere!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Anyone know how the stupid tc is supposed to go back on? Checked for damage since I had to pull the engine with the tc and it looks good but I can’t for the life of me get the thing on. Between the cold, hands covered in fluid, and the weight of the thing this has become very frustrating. Little tabs on the shaft are at 1 and 7 o’clock. Tried jiggling and spinning the thing round and round and still can’t even get it seated for the first “clunk.”
 

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Anyone know how the stupid tc is supposed to go back on? Checked for damage since I had to pull the engine with the tc and it looks good but I can’t for the life of me get the thing on. Between the cold, hands covered in fluid, and the weight of the thing this has become very frustrating. Little tabs on the shaft are at 1 and 7 o’clock. Tried jiggling and spinning the thing round and round and still can’t even get it seated for the first “clunk.”
This is something you gain with experience. It’s still a biotch even for me. I like to stand the trans up to install, but it can be done horizontally as well.

Typically, I simultaneously pull out slightly and reinsert while twisting and moving the TC around.
 
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