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2004 Ram 3500 5.9 HO
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m in the process right now of removing my seized up commonrail out of my 2004 and installing the new one I just picked up this weekend. Problem is, like I said, the old ones seized. So that brings an issue with reusing my tc, flex plate, AND adapter plate off the old engine.

Is there any possible way to get those off? I can’t turn the engine over at all it’s completely locked up. I’ve come to the solution of cutting the old tc off so I can at least salvage the flex plate and adapter plate, but if anyones dealt with this before and has a better solution please let me know ASAP. Thanks!
 

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You'll have to very carefully pull the engine with the flywheel and torque converter out together, or even better find a safe way to remove the engine and trans together. Then pull them apart when you set them on the floor so that the converter will come straight out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
You'll have to very carefully pull the engine with the flywheel and torque converter out together, or even better find a safe way to remove the engine and trans together. Then pull them apart when you set them on the floor so that the converter will come straight out.
See that’s the problem though and maybe I don’t understand. But I thought the converter was held on there with the converter bolts? I can’t spin the engine to get to those bolts in the inspection hole. The engines already separated and sitting on the ground. Converter still attached.

The problem isn’t removing the engine since like I said I have. The problem is getting the tc, flex plate, and adapter plate off the old one to reuse.
 

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See that’s the problem though and maybe I don’t understand. But I thought the converter was held on there with the converter bolts? I can’t spin the engine to get to those bolts in the inspection hole. The engines already separated and sitting on the ground. Converter still attached.
The converter bolts hold the converter to the flywheel. Can you see the converter bolts?

You might have to drop the oil pan take the rod caps off and push the pistons up and maybe then you can turn the crank. If not then loosen the main caps then you can turn the crank.
 
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The snout of the TC slips over the input shaft & through the front seal & pump on the transmission. You can remove the TC still connected to the flex plate & engine being carful to keep everything in alignment or you can damage TC/input shaft, front seal/pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The converter bolts hold the converter to the flywheel. Can you see the converter bolts?

You might have to drop the oil pan take the rod caps off and push the pistons up and maybe then you can turn the crank. If not then loosen the main caps then you can turn the crank.
I can’t see the bolts and I’m pretty sure my crank grenaded when I sent a rod through the block last year. I’ll have to give that a shot.

Following. Hope he’s planning on reusing that stuff so I can figure mine out. Not looking at dropping another $1700 into this build and the engine was supposed to be done tonight.
 
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I think you have to dismantle the seized engine if you ever want to remove the torque converter, flexplate and transmission adapter.
Keep dismantling it until you determine what's stopping it from rotating.
Try what ever is necessary to get it rotating.

The seized engine that threw a rod may be so trashed that there is no way to get it to rotate ever again.
 
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I know nothing.🙄
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The seized engine that threw a rod may be so trashed that there is no way to get it to rotate ever again.
With Sawzall, anything is possible...

If not, angle grinder will finish it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
With Sawzall, anything is possible...

If not, angle grinder will finish it.
That’s where I’m at right now. Or even a torch if I can get one. Don’t have enough time to take the engine apart. Worst case I cut up the tc and get a new tc but at least I can try to salvage the plate and adapter.
 

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I know nothing.🙄
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That’s where I’m at right now. Or even a torch if I can get one. Don’t have enough time to take the engine apart. Worst case I cut up the tc and get a new tc but at least I can try to salvage the plate and adapter.
Don’t have time and don’t care about engine?

Cut back section of oil pan off and cut crank.
 
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That’s where I’m at right now. Or even a torch if I can get one. Don’t have enough time to take the engine apart. Worst case I cut up the tc and get a new tc but at least I can try to salvage the plate and adapter.
Just my opinion but I wouldn't reuse a used Flexplate, i'd try cutting the flexplate to save the TC.
 

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I have not dealt with this before but am following - no doubt I will have to deal with it in the future. Stealth has an excellent point - about dismantling until you are able to rotate - I would think that popping the head and oil pan off would give you access to the mains and rods, I would be inclined to slide the pistons out of the way as well so that I had a better view. I believe you will find the problem and the crank will spin once the rods are removed, or if it is tweaked, it's trash and you'll be able to cut it in half so that the back portion will spin freely, allowing you to unbolt the TC from the flex plate. Good luck sir! can't wait to hear how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey all. Finally got it out. Dropped the pan, removed the caps so I could get access, and sure enough the injector flooded the cylinder and rocketed the piston bending the rod. My rod was completely bent up next to the wall of the block and crank. I was able to stick a ratchet between the crank and top of the rod and a good whack and it came loose. After that I was able to rotate the whole thing by the flywheel. Now time to swap the harness and install the new engine🤙🏻
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I’m in the process of doing an engine swap from a 2004.5 to 2004 engine. I’m using my 2004.5 harness mainly because the truck the 2004 came from was a manual and my truck is an auto so there was no way about not swapping the harness. I’ve tried taking pictures and such but for simplicity’s sake and so I don’t have to fumble with it when the engine is in the truck does anybody have any diagrams for the routing of the harness? I’ve tried looking and maybe I haven’t looked hard enough. No I don’t have a service manual. I just want to ensure I get everything hooked back up and routed how it was so when I go to turn the key it starts up without issue. Thanks!
 
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Sooooo.. Multiple threads with tid bits of info in each thread.
No one can provide any useful info or recommendations without the full story.


How about posting a clear technical summary of what you are trying to accomplish?
Details on your truck?


In one of your other threads, you state that your truck is a 2004.5, but in your 1st post here it's not clear.

For 2003-04 and 2004.5 engine swaps, I recommend to use the entire harness, ECU and turbo from the truck receiving the engine.

Also note that a 2003-04 and 2004.5 engines have some critical differences. Pistons, injector nozzles and turbo.
A search on this forum will bring tons of info on swapping these engines around, turbo and ECM differences, ECM programming differences and more...

Here is a recent thread that may help:

 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sooooo.. Multiple threads with tid bits of info in each thread.
No one can provide any useful info or recommendations without the full story.


How about posting a clear technical summary of what you are trying to accomplish?
Details on your truck?


In one of your other threads, you state that your truck is a 2004.5, but in your 1st post here it's not clear.

For 2003-04 and 2004.5 engine swaps, I recommend to use the entire harness, ECU and turbo from the truck receiving the engine.

Also note that a 2003-04 and 2004.5 engines have some critical differences. Pistons, injector nozzles and turbo.
A search on this forum will bring tons of info on swapping these engines around, turbo and ECM differences, ECM programming differences and more...

Here is a recent thread that may help:

Truck is a 2004.5 engine is a 2004. I’ve already pretty much figured out that I’m going to have to get a service manual. I’m using my 2004.5 harness and ecu with the 2004 engine and turbo and injectors. I already have a tune written for a smarty for this to work. This was mainly to ask about how I’d route my wiring back into the new block so there’s a crap ton of connectors.
 
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