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Help with dead pedal

11908 Views 52 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Sled Puller55, 
P
I have a 2006 dodge 2500 and it suddenly started getting this dead pedal when you first start it up. Once its warmed up the problem goes away but it pretty much doesn't do anything when you first start it up. Its giving me codes p2122, p0698, p2121 and I tried disconnecting the battery to erase the code to see if it might go away its now also giving me a p2509 after I did that. Everything I've been reading says its the apps but how would I make sure? And why would it suddenly start working once the truck is warmed up. Kinda makes me think it isn't the apps but I was hoping someone on here might be able to give me more insight. Thanks!
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Jim 5150
Possible bad PPS. Or could be bad battery. Voltage is low at start and the problem goes away after alternator gets voltage up.
P2122 Pedal Position Sensor 1 Low
P0698 Sensor Reference Voltage 3 Circuit Low
P2121 Pedal Position Sensor 1 Performance / Rationality
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G
clear. the. codes.
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P
Well I spent a few hours going through everything cleaning up all the battery connections and a few grounds I found. I saw that the wire clip on the apps was slightly at an angle, I pulled it off and was getting 5v on the side that was lifted up a little so I pushed it in as good as it would go. Cleared the codes and it seems to be working fine. I'll know for sure tomorrow because the problem only happens when the truck is cold. Crossing my fingers and hoping that was it. If not where should I buy a new apps? I tried looking online but came up short. Is that something autozone would carry or would I have to go to the dealership for it?
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M
try a new battery in the key fob.
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G
thanks for clearing codes and finding "the pinch" (wire at a angle) hopefully it shall run well. sorry for the fuss. people say they have these codes and have these codes do some fildiling and dont clear codes and say they have the same problem.
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Well this morning I started the truck and let it warm up for a few minutes. It ran fine going out the drive way, I slowed down to a stop all happy that it was working then leaving the driveway it slugged down for a second and threw 2 codes, p2609 and p0698. Then it went back to working normal. Haven't had a chance to look up that new code 2609. I ran by autozone though to see how much an apps sensor is and they can't get it. Suggested I go to the dealer. I'm gonna bring it in and have the batteries tested before I start replacing parts. Only thing is they seem good. Both come in at 12v and only drop to 10 when starting and having both seat Warner's on. Then they charge back up quickly and hold 15v while the trucks running. Is there any way to test the apps to make sure it's bad? Crappy part is I'm driving 1000 miles to Idaho soon so I need to get this fixed ><. At least it's better than before though.


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G
If you need a new APPS get ahold of Timbo. Just google Timbo APPS and you will find him. I priced it at the dealer this am and they wanted $625!!! You can buy 3 of Tim's for that money.
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I checked out his site. His apps looks to be for the older model dodges and goes in the engine compartment. Mines a 2006 and is part of the gas pedal. It's all one unit. One if the threads I read someone said not to remove the apps from the pedal assembly or it would be ruined. I'll shoot timbo an email though and see if he has one for a 2006 dodge. Not lookin forward to spending 500+ at a stealership...


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Jim 5150
Get your batteries voltage & load tested.
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P
Just got an email back from the timbo guy and he doesn't carry APPS sensors for 2006 dodge ram 2500. Looks like its only gonna be available through a dealership.


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Well looks like I got it. Had a load test done and the drivers side battery was bad only putting out 619 crank amps to the 850 it was rated for and the passenger battery was good. I just replaced both and the check engine light went away. Still had to clear the codes but I'll know for sure in the morning if that fixed it or not but I'm pretty confident it did.

Funny thing is I tested that battery and it was putting out 12v. I watched my tester while I started the truck and it only went down to 11 and got it to 10 on one start by turning on both seat warmers before starting. Then it jumped up and held at 15v while the truck was running. Must have been just dead enough to make the truck go haywire and start throwing codes that didn't really have anything to do with a bad battery...
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P
Codes came back today, truck acted normal. P0698 and p2121. Any ideas? Gonna clear the codes when I get a chance and see what happens I guess.
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D
Did you replace the TPS yet?
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P
Nope but that may be the next step I guess.

Just got new batteries which made the problem go away with the dead pedal and made the codes disapear on their own. Still had to clear it with an obdII reader though to completely get rid of them. Then 2 days later get the codes again without any dead pedal. I've also cleaned the grounds that I could see and gone through the wire harness and didn't find anything.
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G
sounds like bad APPS had this problem on an 03 pretty sure i had the p2609
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Well I still haven't had a chance to change out the apps but I don't think that is the problem. I erased the codes the other day and went on a trip up north and everything was fine. It got down to 13 degrees outside and I think it was around 35 this morning when I went to start the truck it immediately threw P2121, P2122, and P0698 codes and the dead pedal was back. I let it warm up for a while and drove down some side roads for a bit and the pedal came back and I was able to continue on my trip. I erased the codes a few times but they keep coming back now more than before and I think the cold may have something to do with it.

A few different things I've noticed now. When I start the truck the battery voltage will go from 15v to 11v a few times until the truck has been running for a while. The lights dim with this sort of wave from 15v to 11v to 15v to 11v etc. Also when the gas pedal is responding the battery voltage will react the same way. Starting to think could this be an alternator issue? These are brand new batteries and the problem went away the first few days after I replaced them. Could an alternator have trouble charging the batteries when the truck first starts and do better once everything is warmed up? I also got the dead pedal going about 80mph on the free way 2 times today for the first time. The code reader I have also mentioned something about the ECU. Would this control voltage from the alternator to charge the batteries? About to take this thing into a shop because its getting to be beyond what I can trouble shoot. Anyone got any ideas? I really don't think its a bad apps even though thats the codes I'm getting unless a bad apps can have an effect on the battery like its doing.
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Rpadar
My apps didn't like the cold. Replaced it. Problem solved


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Rpadar said:
My apps didn't like the cold. Replaced it. Problem solved


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Did your truck have similar symptoms? I was really thinking it was the apps but its just strange to me that it would have this much of a drain on the battery to the point of dimming lights and the blower for the ac/heater. Mines directly on the gas pedal too, I could kinda see it warming up with the engine and working better once the motor is hot on an older model truck but with mine being in the cab it doesn't get any heat from the motor. It was pretty cold this morning though, a water bottle froze overnight sitting in the cup holder. Would the apps be something a dodge dealer would have on hand or would that be a part that needs to be ordered?
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Rpadar
Your saying that your truck shows a lower charge and the lights dim and the fan slows down for several seconds at a time for the first few minutes after u start it??
That's the grid heater doing it's thing.
Totally normal they all do that.
My apps screwed up about every 4 months for a year then I finally replaced it last week. Yes dodge should stock it. Look around. I just bought the cheapest one I could find locally in stock.
Perhaps swapping with a known good one may be an option.
My codes were 2121 and 2123. But it's a little different. I would say any shop would replace the apps first thing and charge you to trouble shoot and swap. So most likely your paying for it either way.


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