Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I will start with the main issue and list what I know so far. The truck is a 2004.5 dodge 2500 diesel 151,000 miles, with almost no mods just a k&n intake and the muffler cut out, some sexy flex pipe in its place, first fix after the starting issue is resolved. It has had the stock lift pump replaced at some point to the one that’s in the tank now. I thought it was smoking a little to much to be stock and the boost levels could max out a 35 psi boost gauge like it was nothing and hold a little under 30 with your foot to the floor going down the interstate. So I took it in and had it re-flashed to stock and it cleaned it up a little and the boost stayed under thirty and you could see the waste gate doing its thing on the gauge now.
So to the problem, I am having very slow starts if it is less than 45 degrees outside and the truck has sat more than 4 or 5 hours and is not plugged in. It has done this since I got it a few weeks ago can take 5 to 7 seconds to start sometimes. When it does kick over she idles great no issue there, sounds fine inside and out. Sunday morning I didn’t plug it in and was 40 degrees out and it took its expected time to start and I looked at the exhaust and it was smoking black not a lot but enough to see for a good 30 seconds then it turned white for 20 seconds then just the normal its cold outside smoke and after a minute of that was clean. The truck has also tripped codes p1222 and p1223 at highway speeds but p1223 has cleared itself over the last couple days but p1222 has remained. Have that grid heater light on all the time when driving related to the code from what I am reading. Also, I can find no extra oil in the truck so I am thinking its not an injector issue, thoughts on that?
Been reading countless posts and I don’t think the dodge programming is the issue since it started slow before I got it flashed. My plan tonight is to pull the banjo bolt out of the rprv and start the truck and see if it shoots fuel everywhere to test that, and unbolt the fca and see what it sounds like with a little shake. First question is what is the torque spec on the banjo bolt and the bolts for the fca? What else can I test and look for on this beast, its starting to get cold here and I want to fix her up before it gets to 40 below and it’s a real problem.
Thanks for taking the time to read this massive post and any help you provide.
Brandon
 

·
Gear Nerd
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
First, fill in your signature so you don't have to tell us on every post what your truck is and what equipment you have added to it. (User CP -> Edit Signature)

Second,

The ENTER key makes it possible to split your post into paragraphs, which makes it easier to read. :D

So... if I'm reading this right, you have a truck that you felt was smoking too much, so you had the dealer flash it back to stock to be sure it wasn't a latent program in the ECM.

Despite that, it's always taken a while to get started when it is cold outside.

When you did get it started after this and forgetting to leave the block heater plugged in you got some black smoke, not much, but some... and it lasted about 30 seconds, and then you got white smoke for about 20 seconds.

You don't need to unbolt the FCA for the test you're talking about (in fact, DON'T). Simply disconnect the connector from the back. The torque spec for those tiny machine screws is in inch-lbs (i.e. just snug, you're holding it in place, not trying to cram it into the hole).

Your banjo bolt, if memory serves, needs about 18-20 ft-lbs.

The white smoke is reason for concern, as it can be caused by a number of factors... water in the combustion chamber (blown head gasket, will also cause a hard start), leaky injector stuck in the "on" position causing unburned raw fuel to go out the exhaust. If it's the former, you'll find water in your oil and oil in your water. If it's the latter, you'll smell raw diesel fuel at the exhaust.

I'd say check first for the water/oil condition, second for the diesel smell of the white exhaust, and third the rest of the things on your list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I had the post all nice and done in word but I didnt look at how it transfered over when posted. As for the oil it is good no water from what I can tell no milky looking stuff. Will check the coolant here later when I check everything else. And the truck has never smoked white except for the one morning it is usually just black then nothing. And for reference when unplugging the fca to test what should I see or hear to tell it is good?
 

·
TECH SPECIALIST
Joined
·
5,885 Posts
do you have any rough running missing engine shaking after starting?

after you finish the other tests and if there are no negative findings, then run an injector return test. since you've only had the white exhaust 1 time amounst a number of hard starts, looks more like leaking injector return valves.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/5764-how-injector-return-flow-test.html

can be leak by fuel return in loose under torqued connector tubes also. drops cranking rail pressure

what's the measured rail pressure at:
cold crank
cold idle
hot idle
2000 rpm cruise
WOT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Where can I get the tools mentioned for the test and the torgue specs on the connector tubes? And I have no clue what the rail pressures are no gauges but will try to get a mechanic to ride along with a scanner if the other tests and retorques dont do it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,070 Posts
The snap on truck should have them, maybe Geno's garage.
37ft/lbs on the connector tubes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Didn't think it was injectors don't forget that part, I believe my thinking was correct. Pulled the banjo bolt started her up and fuel flowing out enough to make me wonder how it started or even ran at all.
 

·
TECH SPECIALIST
Joined
·
5,885 Posts
only 2 things kill a RPRV

1. water in diesel past the filters
2. RP black box

both cause other failures in the HPCR fuel system

Troubleshooting an engine problem is like sex with a woman the first time, never know what you got until you pull it out, banjo bolt that is.:eek:opsie:
 

·
Master of Mayhem NASFIG
Joined
·
8,816 Posts
Hey Laramie it wasnt to you directly, its just that i see that comment so many times i couldn't help myself. But if your running the K&N air filter you need to get rid of it ASAP before you make a post on why your having blow-bye issues
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,070 Posts
Didn't think it was injectors don't forget that part, I believe my thinking was correct. Pulled the banjo bolt started her up and fuel flowing out enough to make me wonder how it started or even ran at all.
I hope your right but you do know it would be normal to see about 100ml/min right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Dont worry rpage just trying to get the point accross that im not completely retarded, at least i tell myself that at night ha. I do plan to trash that filter as soon as I get back up to Casper and get an AFE from the diesel mechanic up there.

Waywardtravel how is that supposed to leak anything from that check valve I have read from multiple places that it should be dry and that fancy video on you tube has an adapter in place of the banjo, a hose to a container and nothing comes out. Just want to check before I drop $300 or whatever they cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
only 2 things kill a RPRV

1. water in diesel past the filters
2. RP black box

both cause other failures in the HPCR fuel system

Troubleshooting an engine problem is like sex with a woman the first time, never know what you got until you pull it out, banjo bolt that is.:eek:opsie:
What is an RP black box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Is that banjo bolt a common size?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,070 Posts
Quote:
Didn't think it was injectors don't forget that part, I believe my thinking was correct. Pulled the banjo bolt started her up and fuel flowing out enough to make me wonder how it started or even ran at all.

Quote:
Waywardtravel how is that supposed to leak anything from that check valve I have read from multiple places that it should be dry and that fancy video on you tube has an adapter in place of the banjo, a hose to a container and nothing comes out. Just want to check before I drop $300 or whatever they cost.

If you remove the relief check as you described then it will flow. The banjo itself is the valve.

RP Box is a programmer that increases the rail pressure for horsepower.
I don't know the thread size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
A bit to add to that, when I pulled it last night I noticed it already had some fuel in the top of it if that helps with the determination on its condition. Also when I started it with the bolt out it started the exact same as if it where in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
got a scanner hooked up to the truck this afternoon and during cranking got up to 5,000psi and idled at 6,500+psi. when reved to 3k rpm it got up to 15,500psi. so as much as I wanted to avoid it I believe it to be injectors, got a buddy coming over tomorow with a block off for the injector lines to test and see which one it is. he was saying when the one that is bad is blocked off it will start the same or better than if it was hooked up. anyother way i can test them still in the truck, or advice for this process of testing?
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top