Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i just bought a 1997 drw cummins and the parking and dash lights don't work...fuse blows as soon as i pull the switch. thought it was the switch so i pulled it out and the wiring at the switch and the switch all look good and the brake lights and turn signals work along with the headlights...the bed was changed before i bought the truck so i checked the wiring and everything looked ok. any ideas to help me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
most likely the switch itself.... check with the dealer to see if it has had the recall done for the headlight switch. All my marker lights went out it was a bad ground :confused013: works fine now. Why was the bed changed? It should just be plug and play, unless it was a cut and splice flatbed deal. Im leaning more towards the switch because the dash lights go out too and they are on a seperate fuse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i had the dealer look and they said that my truck didn't fall under the recall so i checked the dodge website with my vin and found the same thing. the truck was a farm truck before i bought it and the factory bed was beat up pretty bad i guess so they put an 03 bed on it which is something i eventually want to change back to original. the lights to the bed were hard wired but i unhooked everything and the fuse still blew. can the switch be bad even with no burn or melting marks? is there a way to test it cuz im a lil tight on cash right now so paying $120 for the new switch and not needing it would be rough. thanks for the help!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
sure it could short internally, ive got another switch for my truck and it doesent shoot the fuse it just doesent work period.... im not sure why its not covered because my 97 is covered.... was it a cab and chassis or something
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
no it was a regular truck...im not sure y either...they told me it was a tsb on my truck not a recall they did say they could sell me the new switch and harness tho for $120. i can get a new switch from napa for $60 would it be as good as the dealer switch or not have the recall fix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
no it was a regular truck...im not sure y either...they told me it was a tsb on my truck not a recall they did say they could sell me the new switch and harness tho for $120. i can get a new switch from napa for $60 would it be as good as the dealer switch or not have the recall fix?
After market should be fine but dont spend the money till you check the old one. Check it with an ohm's meter. Things to look for, did the truck ever have a plow? (not sure where your located) front end damage ever? We replace a lot of pugs on our head light switches at work on sterlings but there usually melted. Ive also seen filaments in bulbs blow and fall on the other filament and do some funky stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i have a voltmeter that has an ohms setting...just not sure how to use it...any advice you can give would be great! i have no idea what the ground is on the switch or anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Kind of a lot to explain but if you have a diagram of the switch and or plug you can check for any resistance between terminals. I know there known for to much draw on the headlight switch but I wouldn't think it would instantly blow a fuse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i don't have a diagram but ive been searching. i started just touching some of the terminals and the numbers started jumping when i touched certain combos...i have the ohms set on 200 so not sure if im doin something close to right or not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
well your looking for volts if your testing the plug, resistance on the switch is where I would start. That will tell you if its shorted internally.

How long after you turn your lights on does it take to blow the fuse?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,610 Posts
A possibility is a bulb is shorted out internally, and is a lot easier than replacing switches, etc. Pull all four parking light bulbs and disconnect the license plate lights. A bad bulb could be easy to id.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
quick way to rule out the switch is put power to the marker lights terminal at the plug and see if the fuse blows
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
i checked the resistance on the plug and the numbers on my multimeter went from 155 to 5 and back up and down on 2 terminals then found 2 others that were fairly high too...what wire is the hot and what is the parking lights so i can put in a jumper wire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
main power is pink/red
park lts black/yellow

This is where power probes kickass
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
thanks for the wire id! hopefully i can get some time today or tomorrow to try it out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
well i tried a jumper wire for the parking lights and the fuse still blew so i put the switch back in...now the headlights dont come on but i can get them to flash with the hi/lo switch. i previously unhooked the rear lights and the fuse still blew so i left them in this time and pulled the front 2 parking lights fuse still blew. i can get the parking and dash lights to come on if i pull the switch halfway between off and on with a blown fuse still in! :confused013: the truck came with an 03 bed and when i can get the lights on the rear lights are very dim. is there any difference in the lights or grounds on the 3rd gen beds to 2 gens that could be causing the fuse to still blow?
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top