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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this on my truck that I inherited and believe a may have shorted it out. I hit the switch in the cab with my knee and it killed the truck. It looked like the wires were touching so I separated them and it still won’t start.
Did I fry something?
What is it and where did it come from?
Do I need to replace it?

Thanks in advance and any suggestions or help is appreciated.

Motor vehicle Gas Electrical wiring Nut Wire


Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Grey Steering wheel
 

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· Rear Admiral Rickard Onmi
2018 Ram 3500 CCLBSRW
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The knob on the right looks like some sort of switch on the fly device for multiple tunes, does the switch on the left go to the same location as the knob or does it control something else?
 
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I must be getting old because I recognize all those old 3rd Gen modules!
I only tried most of them on my truck over the years!

That knob and module looks like an old TS MP-8 interceptor style Pressure box.
Are there any markings or labels on the module?

Follow the wires from the module and see where they go. If they go to the MAP and fuel rail pressure sensors, hopefully the module is just T'd in. Disconnect all of it.

Next up is to check for DTC's, using the key on/off 3 times and read any codes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The knob on the right looks like some sort of switch on the fly device for multiple tunes, does the switch on the left go to the same location as the knob or does it control something else?
All the wires go through the firewall to the box and ”T” in to it then it looks like 2 wires go from there elsewhere. If I unplug the box, it starts but runs real rough and the check engine light stays on. I’ll trace the 2 wires tomorrow to see where they go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I must be getting old because I recognize all those old 3rd Gen modules!
I only tried most of them on my truck over the years!

That knob and module looks like an old TS MP-8 interceptor style Pressure box.
Are there any markings or labels on the module?

Follow the wires from the module and see where they go. If they go to the MAP and fuel rail pressure sensors, hopefully the module is just T'd in. Disconnect all of it.

Next up is to check for DTC's, using the key on/off 3 times and read any codes.
There are no markings anywhere. I even peeled the Velcro back to make sure there weren’t any under it.
Ok, I’m new to this so please remind me what “DTC” means.
 

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Diagnostic Trouble Code. If you cycle the key on and off 3 times your odometer will read any codes starting with the letter p and four digit number. Example p2509.
Have pen and paper ready to write them down.
 
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All the wires go through the firewall to the box and ”T” in to it then it looks like 2 wires go from there elsewhere. If I unplug the box, it starts but runs real rough and the check engine light stays on. I’ll trace the 2 wires tomorrow to see where they go.

Don't start the truck until you know exactly what the module is, what the issue is and the module is completely disconnected.
 
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