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Discussion Starter #1
so i have read all the threads about setting the caster setting positive, and i know all about the right side being more positive due to road crown, but the only thing im curious about is i got under the truck and noticed that on the passenger side the accentric bolt looks maxed out, by this i mean that the bolts positioned to fully to the rear of the truck with the small hole in the washer fully to the front. then i looked at the driver side and the bolt looks as if its in the 11 o clock position so less than half maked out. im just curious because i went to this place to get the PULL TO THE RIGHT fixed, i get it back and its the same however they did show me some print out saying i had a 3.2 on DS with a 3.3 on the PS. i guess the question is with the actual settings i observed on the bolts is it possible i was charged and they did nothing to fix my allignment and just showed me some old bogus printout...atleast thats the vibe im getting..

if the bolt on the passenger side is maxed what is typically the numerical value of this setting..i.e. 3.2, and what about the DS at the 11 o'clock . how would my truck still pull right of the caster is maxed on the right and not on the left and does this actually whats causing the pull..
 

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I took mine to firestone too. When I got it back it was the same thing. Took it to another guy and he said that there is so many people who dont know how to fix that. That they dont even know to look for it. Take it somewhere else where thats all they specialize in is front ends
 

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The truck will usually pull to the side w/ the less castor. I would atleast in your shoes have the passengers side the same as the driverside setting, and take a test drive to see how it feels. This is something you can do in your driveway, to set the castor, but since you paid for it at a shop. I would take it back, and tell them to make it right. Majority of align shops do a chitty job w/ our trucks. I do my own, but rarley does it go out of setting. If you have four jack stands and string (or fixed points to line up your rear tires to the front tires w/ the string). You can do your toe setting also.

Just my $0.02..........
 
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Discussion Starter #4
so with that said if the right side is so far forward why would i pull right, and also would just maxing out the other side as well cause it to pull harder right, think the A$$ end of the truck is out of line?
 

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Offsetting the caster adjustments on the front end does nothing but put the suspension in a bind and screw up its operation. The ball joints have offset collars to adjust for caster on the right side and the lower control arms need to be set equally for correct operation. Find an alignment shop that knows what they are doing.

A difference of 3.2 to 3.3 will still pull in most cases. It needs to go at least a half a degree or preferably 1 degree to make a difference.

First question is what tires are you running? Size and rating?
 

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so with that said if the right side is so far forward why would i pull right, and also would just maxing out the other side as well cause it to pull harder right, think the A$$ end of the truck is out of line?
I may have mis-read your post, but from what I gather. Your passenger side cam is rolled back (negative castor) and your driver side is at a 11 o'clock position in which would be positive castor. If that's the case, then I would suggest rolling your passenger side forward to atleast what the driver side setting is. That would help w/ a more straight steering than a major pull to the right.

Also what cerberusiam above mentioned in his post.
 

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When we align the dodges we normally run a degree higher. You can't really use just one caster bolt cause its a straight axle and it will just bind the axle. Adjusting both at the same time will raise or lower both sides together. To get the side higher you need an offset ball joint. After the leveling kit we tell people that run aggressive tires that if it pulls it will probably need an offset ball joint. This will solve 95% of the pulling problems! If you haven't tried cross switching your tires you might try it. Sometimes you can get radial pull side to side in a tire also. Judging on your caster readings I would just put an offset ball joint in and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea im sorry i ment the passenger side is set to the most positive setting (the bolt is to the rearmost position) and the driver side is at the 11 position..thats what has me baffled...because everything about allignments would mean that in theory the passenger side is slightly foreward, and im assuming that because the settings are not the same thats causing some sort of bind or wrap on the axle? im currently located at fort bragg, nc and am having a issue finding a trustworthy shop to have this worked on...so far i have been to two shops with little to no success
 

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eory the passenger side is slightly foreward, and im assuming that because the settings are not the same thats causing some sort of bind or wrap on the axle?
Yes it does and the suspension doesn't work correctly plus wears the bushings a lot faster.

As I and other said, you will probably need 1 degree to make any difference in the driving. That will take an offset ball joint.

I'm in Cameron on the weekends but not from there. I can ask around and see if there is a good shop that understands these trucks.

What tires are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
im currently running 35x12.5xr17 load range E Super seamper SSR Radials. theres really not alot of issue with vibration or balance and am running 60 PSi in the front. those are coming off on saturday and im putting a set of 315 70R 17's that are Mastercraft Coursers. i have an adjustable trac bar from BD Diesel and had it installed at a shop but im unsure if he centered the axle with the truck in the air or on the ground...im thinking that could also be the issue if the axle isnt exactly centered....what dou you guys think would that be the reason for the pull to the right
 

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Nah, the reason for the pull is not enough caster with those tires. The Adjustable track bar just centers the axle after the leveling kit. Need sotbe done correctly but it works well.

My experience with the wider tires is the caster has to be out at least 4-5 degress or they will pull and wander. With the 295/70 Toyos I ran 4 degrees on the driver side and 5 degrees on the passenger side. With a set of AT's I put them both at 5 degrees to get a good feel.

I would at least get an 1 degree offest on the passenger side then max the caster on existing control arms. That should give you 4 degrees on the DS and 5 degrees on the PS. That seems to work for a starting place then get adjustable lower control arms if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks looks like i need to just go ahead and get those control arms...what are the best ones, and whats the brand and if you could where can i get them and whats the price..i know the bolts are seized in the control arm sleeves so ill have to cut em out...just to verify i dont have enough caster and i NEED to add more...and im assuming changin out those ol swampers probibly isnt a bad idea after all...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
also are there any great ideas on which tool may be best to remove those lower control arm bolts that are seized in the sleeves...i was thankin a saw zall...but if there are any better ideas out there i am definatelly open to options....also im lookin at replacing the bushings in the trac bar i have a Adjustable BD trac bar...should i contact BD or will most polyurethane replacements work?
 

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My advice, those tires are not rated for your truck. With a 315 tire they had better be E rated. The D rated tires in 35's do not work well on these heavy front end trucks and you end with some weird driving characteristics. Not sure what you are looking at but a quick search did not show E rating in that size.

Yes, you need more caster to get rid of steering problems and you will probably need to offset the caster. If your ball joints are good you could just try going to 5 degrees on both sides and see what happens. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. The more caster you run the harder it is on the tires so it is a tradeoff.

SolidSteel is probably one of the best bars out there yet but there are others. Source Automotive carries the SS bars. There are others that escape me at this moment. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well i have the tires in the garage and used them temporarily until i got the swampers after a deployment...the driving experience was excellent with them...as were the swampers but once the tread wore down on them i am having issues with them balancing, and im all over the road...i am prettysere the bolts in the control arms will have to be cut out so im gonna just go ahead and get the bars you spoke of being im gonna have to go to the dealership to order new bolts anyway...figure ill just knock out two birds with one stone...im not sure the load range on the mastercrafts, but im guessing if they dont work out new tires will also be in my future....if theres anyone in the southern NC area that knows of a trustworthy allignment shop let me know...im having issuse finding one with no intentions of ripping soldiers off.
 
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