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gioing to to get rid of the ford and buy a cummins 2nd gen help me decide 12 or 24 valve
 

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if you load the active topics page, there will be something about a smarty, a broken down 6.7, or a defective 24 valve vp pump. not often at all there is anything said to go wrong with the 12 valve.
 

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I love my 12v. I use it as a DD and it has worked great so far
 

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12v all the way baby, but if you want easy power with just a plug in module then 24v is your way to go, but if you want serious reliable power stay with a dozen valves:headbang:
 

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they both have their advantages and disadvantages... 24 valves obviously have more electric which in a way is just more stuff that can break. 12valveterror is right about the 24 valves being a little easier to tune. 24 valves have issues with the lift pumps... 12 valves have the KDP. Both have bad automatic transmissions. That being said, buy the 12 valve, lol.
 

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I just came from an OBS powerstroke Ford. Did a lot of reaserch before i bought as i was thinkin 12V or 24V.

12V pro's
for $50 you can get over 300hp and 675ft lbs tq
P pump is rock solid
All mechanical


12V cons
Killer dowl pin


24V pros
Only thing i can think of is plug in to upgrade no turning wrenches.
24V head has more HP potential

24V cons
all electrical(con for me)
harder to diagnos and work on at home without a scanner
53 blocks
More expensive to modify
instantly need to upgrade lift pumps even if its stock where as a stock 12v lift pump will hold up past 400hp
LOTS of injection pump problems



After experiencing all sorts of electrical issues with the PSD it was an easy choice to go all mechanical 12v for me.:headbang:
 

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12v
Resist the temptation to overvalve....

KO
 

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Plain and simple... My truck WAS a VP'd 24v....

It is now a 12v with a P-pump....

Chase


Just curious why not a p pumped 24v? Or is it not really a "straight forward" swap. A 24v head wont work on a 12v short block due to the piston valve notches right.
 

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The answer is simple:
One of the last no emission controlled engines ever put in a vehicle or a 24 valve
 

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Just curious why not a p pumped 24v? Or is it not really a "straight forward" swap. A 24v head wont work on a 12v short block due to the piston valve notches right.
Well, for some reason(53 block), there was a crack....

Or, it would have been p-pumped.

I may look into a 24 head at a later time(depending on the b/s involved)

Chase
 

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Well, for some reason(53 block), there was a crack....

Or, it would have been p-pumped.

I may look into a 24 head at a later time(depending on the b/s involved)

Chase
:doh:

Guess i wasn't thinking catastrophic failure.
 

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I just came from an OBS powerstroke Ford. Did a lot of reaserch before i bought as i was thinkin 12V or 24V.

12V pro's
for $50 you can get over 300hp and 675ft lbs tq
P pump is rock solid
All mechanical


12V cons
Killer dowl pin


24V pros
Only thing i can think of is plug in to upgrade no turning wrenches.
24V head has more HP potential

24V cons
all electrical(con for me)
harder to diagnos and work on at home without a scanner
53 blocks
More expensive to modify
instantly need to upgrade lift pumps even if its stock where as a stock 12v lift pump will hold up past 400hp
LOTS of injection pump problems



After experiencing all sorts of electrical issues with the PSD it was an easy choice to go all mechanical 12v for me.:headbang:
I agree with u expcept two things...one is that there really isnt any injection pump problems..its just the lift pump thats the problem..the injection pump is actually really good.... and also the 24 valve is actually easier to diagnose..some places will plug it in to the scanner for free..a 12 valve u gotta get to the problem without a scanner and that can take much much longer and little more work than using a scanner on a 24 valve..
 

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I agree with u expcept two things...one is that there really isnt any injection pump problems..its just the lift pump thats the problem..the injection pump is actually really good.... and also the 24 valve is actually easier to diagnose..some places will plug it in to the scanner for free..a 12 valve u gotta get to the problem without a scanner and that can take much much longer and little more work than using a scanner on a 24 valve..
I'm no expert or tech, but the amount of VP44 dead pedal threads on this website alone is quite high. I saw a thread awhile ago where a guy had 750,000 miles on a p pump that was never rebuilt. Seems like there are 20 VP problem threads to every 1 p pump problem thread.

What i meant to say by 24V harder to diagnose i meant the average Joe can't get out his FP guage and tool box to diagnose a 24v. Either got to take it to a shop or buy a scanner and go from there. I hate having to count on a computer to run an engine when all a diesel really need to run is fuel,air, compression to run.

But hey that is just my opinion on the whole subject of 12v-24v diagnostics.
 

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not tryin to argue with u but the whole reason for the "dead pedal" vp44 thing is almost always due to ppl not changing out the stock lift pump...with proper fuel pressure from the lift pump the VP44 will last a long time..im already pushing 300,000 miles with the original injection pump..just has to be taken care of properly...and for the computer thing..im just sayin its much easier for an average joe to hook up a scanner and diagnose the problem from a simple code than to have to start removing and looking for a bad part that COULD be broken...and if an average joe cant hook up a scanner or have it towed to autozone for a free scan then what makes u think he can start removing and testing parts to find the problem??...and yes i agree the 12 valves are very good..but so is the 24 valve...i know u may think im just sayin this because i have a 24 valve..but my brother has a 12 valve and they are both awesome trucks..
 

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Agreed, The engine codes can allow for easier diagnoses.
They are both good engines, nearly identical too.
The 12V powerhouse is hard to tune down. It sucks to be rolling coal all time, without an easy way to turn it down. Also, modded 12V's tend to be real cranky in the winter time due to static timing.
 

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FIRST... I snagged my truck cheap.. .picked it up with 103k on it... had a bad VP on the floor in front of the passenger seat, and one on the side of the motor....

This truck wasnt chipped, or towed, or... it was snagged from a 64 y/o guy, who used it to drive back and forth from PA to ME during hunting season, hauling wood, and meat..

There was nothing wrong with the lift pump.. I even used it to fuel my P pump for a short while....

Second..... Its not hard to trouble shoot ANY engine...

The fact that its said otherwise, is a sign of the times, or how we are/were taught....

It always starts with the 2 things you need for combustion, air, fuel, ignition... whichever you dont have, you work from there, until you figure it out.

Point is neither is hard.

Just that the 24v has more electronics, thus, adding time to the electrical side of the troubleshooting loop....

Chase
 

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Agreed, The engine codes can allow for easier diagnoses.
They are both good engines, nearly identical too.
The 12V powerhouse is hard to tune down. It sucks to be rolling coal all time, without an easy way to turn it down. Also, modded 12V's tend to be real cranky in the winter time due to static timing.
I run 20*, and not a stock motor....... and I started just fine.....

Its all relative...
 
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