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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys I'm trying to help my cousin out. He has an 01 3500 qclb drw 2wd sport. When he turns his heater on it stills blows cold. He brought it to the shop and they said 600-900$ to fix it. They checked his heater core and they said its good and his fan works because his a/c blows. I'm thinking its a solenoid valve by the fan. Am I right? If not what else should we look for? Any help is greatly appreciated guys!!!


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blend door motor under dash ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'm getting with him one day this week after work to look at it. I jut wanted to see if anybody had the problem and what they did to fix it. I will be sure to check that motor too. I'm hoping its something simple and we don't have to pull the dash. Again, thanks for the help!!!


Edit: I got off my butt and found a thread about it :buttkick: we are going to try it this afternoon.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/398477-blend-door-motor.html

In case anybody else needs it.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok we checked that actuator and the collar. They are both good. I took the actuator off and operated the door by hand. There is a noticeable difference in the a/c and heat sides but the heat is still cool not even warm. Truck was at 180-190* and the heater core was untouchably hot so the air should've been warm. I am at a loss as to what to check now. Any help/insight is greatly appreciated.


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Have ye checked the vacuum lines under the hood and I think there's one thats down by the trans bell housing area on the passanger side thats a bit of plastic and is prone to coming undone or breaking and causing these kind of issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have ye checked the vacuum lines under the hood and I think there's one thats down by the trans bell housing area on the passanger side thats a bit of plastic and is prone to coming undone or breaking and causing these kind of issues.
We will check that tomorrow and I will report our findings, thanks!!


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Heater core might be hot but is is flowing at full flow, have you popped of the hoses and seen how the fluid flow is?

I had a heater core that was slightly clogged up but i had zero heat i did a good thorough 1hr long flush and now i have Scorching heat
 

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Are both hoses hot? If so the heater core is plugged up. Properly working heater core should have a hot hose and a cooler hose because of heat exchange just like the radiator. Even my radiator is over 70-90*F cooler on the cap side. So should be the heater core if flowing correctly.

Is the blend door jammed? If so remove the stepper motor and see if you can move it manually.


Vacuum lines have no bearing on heat production because even without vacuum you'll still have DEF and heat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Blend door is fine. We pulled the actuator off and I moved it by hand. I'll check both hoses today or tomorrow. His cruise control isn't working either. I know that's vacuum though and he said he's really not worried about that. On flushing the core, did you just flush the entire engine cooling system or just the core?


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Blend door is fine. We pulled the actuator off and I moved it by hand. I'll check both hoses today or tomorrow. His cruise control isn't working either. I know that's vacuum though and he said he's really not worried about that. On flushing the core, did you just flush the entire engine cooling system or just the core?


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When i flushed mine I did both. Flushed Core alone then all together

Pick up some CLR and dump it in the Heater Core and let it sit for about 30-45 mins then flush it out and back flush it to. It helps alot breaks down any deposits

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do know off the top of your head what size (I.d.) those hoses are? I'm thinking I can get a water hose x barb fitting and flush the core by itself to keep the trash out of the engine. Or is that a bad idea?


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Tbh man I think your only making work for yourself there. You already said the heater core is "untouchably hot" so that to me means the hot coolant is getting in and out ok.
You also said the cruise isn't working because of a vacuum issue. I would fix that first and see if it fixes the heat.
 

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The heater coore could be caked with oil and dirt allo which would prevent the hot air from blowing through it causing the air that is coming out of the vents to be cool. I agree though, fix your vacuum problem first and see if that fixes it, no reason to spend money and time fixing a bunch of stuff if that is your problem.
 

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Tbh man I think your only making work for yourself there. You already said the heater core is "untouchably hot" so that to me means the hot coolant is getting in and out ok.
You also said the cruise isn't working because of a vacuum issue. I would fix that first and see if it fixes the heat.
^^^

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Do know off the top of your head what size (I.d.) those hoses are? I'm thinking I can get a water hose x barb fitting and flush the core by itself to keep the trash out of the engine. Or is that a bad idea?

3/4 or 5/8 i cant remember which, yes flush it alone until it runs clear then hokk all back up and flush engine to if ud like or just top it off and ride

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Tbh man I think your only making work for yourself there. You already said the heater core is "untouchably hot" so that to me means the hot coolant is getting in and out ok.
You also said the cruise isn't working because of a vacuum issue. I would fix that first and see if it fixes the heat.
That is a good point, But i have seen for my self where A heater core was hot to the touch but still plugged enough to restrict proper flow to heat,

Not disagreeing with what you have said, but it only takes 5 mins to unhook the hoses and run some water through and make sure u have 100% fluid flow
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It was raining today and I had his brothers ford dually in their shop changing the clutch so I didn't get a chance to look at it today. I did tell him about the vacuum tube on the pass side around the bell housing area. A diagram of all these vac lines would be nice if anybody knows where to find one. I figured the heater hoses aren't hard to get to and that barb fitting shouldn't be but a couple of bucks and then I could use it again. I appreciate every ones help on this!!!


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one vac line that seems to get knocked off a lot is up on the firewall next to the brake booster.
 
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