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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my heater core has just started to leak. When i run the heater the whole truck will start to fog up and you can smell the antifreeze. I have heard that it is a pretty long job to do. Any tips and tricks on doing this job? Also is there anything else that i should check or replace while i have the whole unit out? Its a very small leak because i am not loosing a whole lot of fluid. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Most people say to remove he dash but you can get away by just swigging it down by the side bolts, but first you need to unbolt the the steering colom from the dash and pull it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, ive heard from my local mechanic which i trust said its like a 10-12 hour job. thanks for that tip, sounds like it will save some time
 

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Here's how I did mine.

1: Take the two steering column bolts out and drop the column.
2: Take the 5 screws out of the top of the dash. LOOSEN the two bolts on the sides, one under the dash by the drivers door, one on the other side. The dash will pivot back.
3: Carefully detach all the wires necessary so the dash can pivot all the way.

4: Here's the big part. Most people will want to remove the heater core and it's piping as one unit, but there is ( in my opinion ) no reason for this. Cut the pipes on the heater core leaving yourself a few inches of pipe for a rubber hose. You may spill some coolant.

Trim the pipes on the new heater core to match, drop it into place, and splice the pipes together with rubber heater hose. You could flare the ends if you wish so the rubber hose has a nice place to dig in. Use clamps, make sure it's clamped good. Hook the wires up and swing the dash back into place.

My logic is this: If the rubber hoses work under the hood and don't leak, there is no reason for them to leak in the dash where they are more protected. It's a far less hostile environment. :D

You could have the whole thing done this way in three hours or less, the first time around. I can have the dash out in twenty minutes and back in in a half hour.
 

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My logic is this: If the rubber hoses work under the hood and don't leak, there is no reason for them to leak in the dash where they are more protected. It's a far less hostile environment. :D
My logic is, if a hose clamp works loose under the hood, and they do work loose, it is easily tightened. If a hose clamp works loose in the plenum you have to take the dash off again.

Do it right the first time.
 

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Use good clamps, tighten them properly, they won't come loose.

I use these:
 

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Even if you are lucky enough for them not to leak you still have rubber hoses where copper should be. Heater hose doesn't last forever. If you change your coolant on schedule the heater core will. My heater core is the original, but the heater hoses under the hood have been changed several times. Quit promoting half-azz maintenance.
 

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This is true. However, for the amount of time it would take me to replace the spliced hoses again when the time comes vs the number of years they have lasted for and will last for yet, I don't see it as much as a problem PERSONALLY.

I'm not saying it's the right way to do it, and I'm not saying it will last forever, but I've seen it done many times and have yet to see a hose bridging an 8th inch gap blow off. Should it ever happen to me, nobody's fault but my own.

It does save a lot of down time when you are in a rush to get it done.
 

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It does save a lot of down time when you are in a rush to get it done.
Once upon a time I bought a brand new Chev pickup. One morning I was at the service desk to have a warranty covered problem repaired. I remarked to the service writer that it was my third trip for the same problem. No joke, he looked up from his desk and said " We are so busy here that we don't always have the time to fix it right."

It takes very little more time to replace the core correctly. I've taken mine out once while doing other work, just to clean the fins, so I know how much work it is. Flush the system and replace the coolant every 5 years and you will never have to replace the core again.
 

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if you follow that link above, prepare to miss a few things. i had mine done in a day. but i mean day. started at 11am, test drove the truck at 1 am. mostly because the shop that installed my gauges left no slack or plugs, so i had to unplug everything and try to fish it through so i could tilt the dash. but its not that hard, and i did it without removing the dash or removing the HVAC box the entire way.
 

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I had my dash pulled back in less than a hour and put back together in two....total 3 hours for me. I'd do it all over again for $100

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If you follow the suggestion above about rocking the dash back and dropping the steering column count on an honest 4.5 -5 hrs to do the job its not that bad really. I did mine a couple years ago and at the time had to search around for a heater core that had tubes that would rotate around this saved having to completely remove the whole HVAC assembly I just swapped cabs on my truck and while it was apart I changed the core again just to be safe and the new one had the swivel tubes and it was way cheaper than a couple years back also no leaks at the crimps on the tubes either. Anyone with basic mechanical skill cans do this job themselves and save a bunch of money to put towards go fast parts.......
 

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Ill be doing this soon unfortunately


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Quick way to change heatrer core(2-3hours) - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

Screw type hose clamps do come loose. Perhaps that's why you hardly see them stock on modern vehicles.

I feel totally confident using this type under the dash.
That's exactly how I did mine. Except I cut my factory unit while still in the truck with a dremel and a few new disks. Installed new unit with two flat spring clamps on each line. I did mine that way so I didn't have to evacuate and fill the AC. In addition if a guy really had to change the rubber line out in the future access can be had by removing the glove box.

 

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I did mine that way so I didn't have to evacuate and fill the AC.
It is not necessary to evac the A/C. The plenum can be unbolted from the firewall and tipped back far enough to remove the heater core without cutting the lines.
 
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