2006 2500 4X4 5.9 48RE Smarty Leveling kit and 315 ATs... That's about it...
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I've spent a bit of time digging and have not found the same symptom so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
My hot / cold adjustment is not working. By default it sticks in "cold" mode - but I've found that I can get it to go to full hot by turning the blower fan up to max, putting it on the mixed output between the feet and the vents that blow into the cabin, and then (brace yourself) running over a curb, or stump, or big pothole, or anything that makes the passenger side of the truck articulate a good bit. I figured this out by accident - I live on a dirt road and it was hot enough that I had the AC on and it had rained, washing out some road material. When I hit the washed out area I heard the door flap and close and the air got hotter. It's been this way now for a couple of months - and on cold days I have a silly routine of running over a chunk of log on my way out of the driveway to get the door to flap over to "hot." It will stay there until I shut off the truck (or turn the blower off) - and I can then hear it flop back over to cold...
I'm guessing that I'm going to be told that I have to pull the whole dash out of the truck and replace the actuator - but I want to be sure before I make the decision to ruin a weekend or more of my life - or to work a bunch of extra hours to pay someone else to dive into that hell...
So... a few questions:
1) Assuming that this is the actuator - and based on some of the other threads the dodge actuators are crap plastic pieces and there are aftermarket pieces that are made more of metal and less prone to fail quickly - can someone point me to the "better" or "best" brands of aftermarket actuator?
2) Can this be done without disconnecting the AC and Heater core from its feed lines?
3) If it is not the actuator - but something else - please set me straight.
4) I previously pulled the recirc blend door (it had broken and was blocking airflow - so I pulled the fan and pulled it out) - should I assume that I'll have to pull things apart far enough that it is worth replacing that unit too while I'm in there - or is there a "quick and dirty" fix for replacing the actuator that does not involve tearing things apart to that degree.
Thanks in advance...
My hot / cold adjustment is not working. By default it sticks in "cold" mode - but I've found that I can get it to go to full hot by turning the blower fan up to max, putting it on the mixed output between the feet and the vents that blow into the cabin, and then (brace yourself) running over a curb, or stump, or big pothole, or anything that makes the passenger side of the truck articulate a good bit. I figured this out by accident - I live on a dirt road and it was hot enough that I had the AC on and it had rained, washing out some road material. When I hit the washed out area I heard the door flap and close and the air got hotter. It's been this way now for a couple of months - and on cold days I have a silly routine of running over a chunk of log on my way out of the driveway to get the door to flap over to "hot." It will stay there until I shut off the truck (or turn the blower off) - and I can then hear it flop back over to cold...
I'm guessing that I'm going to be told that I have to pull the whole dash out of the truck and replace the actuator - but I want to be sure before I make the decision to ruin a weekend or more of my life - or to work a bunch of extra hours to pay someone else to dive into that hell...
So... a few questions:
1) Assuming that this is the actuator - and based on some of the other threads the dodge actuators are crap plastic pieces and there are aftermarket pieces that are made more of metal and less prone to fail quickly - can someone point me to the "better" or "best" brands of aftermarket actuator?
2) Can this be done without disconnecting the AC and Heater core from its feed lines?
3) If it is not the actuator - but something else - please set me straight.
4) I previously pulled the recirc blend door (it had broken and was blocking airflow - so I pulled the fan and pulled it out) - should I assume that I'll have to pull things apart far enough that it is worth replacing that unit too while I'm in there - or is there a "quick and dirty" fix for replacing the actuator that does not involve tearing things apart to that degree.
Thanks in advance...
