[Needsworktruck6]

Seems like I’m winding up posting here more and more, but my user name holds accurate. The P.O. or the owner before him decided to replace the headlight harness pigtails at the headlights. They were done questionably and when I looked at it I decided that was the first place to start. Re did that with crimp connects and heat shrink, maybe a little bit of black bandaid on a roll. Or electrical tape depending on what you do more. Driver’s headlight still dim, took the switch out of the dash and it looks alright. Not great by any stretch of the imagination but it’ll work. Is there anything else besides checking grounds that I have yet to do that could cause this?

 

[Needsworktruck6]

Bump.

 

[Cartwheels]

Well if it still comes on but is dim possibly make sure there's not a funky bulb in it, if it doesn't come on at all it might be your TIPM.

 

[Cartwheels]

Here's a thread I started when my TIPM went bad.

 

[Needsworktruck6]

Well if it still comes on but is dim possibly make sure there's not a funky bulb in it, if it doesn't come on at all it might be your TIPM.

I put two new bulbs in it. Plus the weird thing is the high beam is the same as the passenger side in terms of brightness.

 

[BR3500]

Any ideas what prompted the PO to change or swap pigtails/connectors?

Check to see if any body codes (BXXXX) are present for either the heads lights or the switch. There are 8 different body codes with different electrical tests to verify whether or not there is a short to ground, short to B+, high driver circuit resistance, etc. for the headlamps Hopefully your TIPM is not at fault...I suggest pulling down a copy of the FSM for the checks/tests.

One thing you can check is the grounds. The left side head lamp ground is G104, located within the engine compartment at the LS fender, near the front of the fender. The right side headlamp ground is G106, located at the rear of the LS fender. Both grounds are located at or near the top of fender...Check for corrosion at both points, including terminal lug and wiring that attaches to it.

 

[Cartwheels]

Any ideas what prompted the PO to change or swap pigtails/connectors?

Check to see if any body codes (BXXXX) are present for either the heads lights or the switch. There are 8 different body codes with different electrical tests to verify whether or not there is a short to ground, short to B+, high driver circuit resistance, etc. for the headlamps Hopefully your TIPM is not at fault...I suggest pulling down a copy of the FSM for the checks/tests.

One thing you can check is the grounds. The left side head lamp ground is G104, located within the engine compartment at the LS fender, near the front of the fender. The right side headlamp ground is G106, located at the rear of the LS fender. Both grounds are located at or near the top of fender...Check for corrosion at both points, including terminal lug and wiring that attaches to it.

This is a great process to start diagnosing it.

I don't understand how the light circuit works on these truck, all I know is it's extremely complicated with the TIPM doing it's thing and all.

 

[Needsworktruck6]

Any ideas what prompted the PO to change or swap pigtails/connectors?

Check to see if any body codes (BXXXX) are present for either the heads lights or the switch. There are 8 different body codes with different electrical tests to verify whether or not there is a short to ground, short to B+, high driver circuit resistance, etc. for the headlamps Hopefully your TIPM is not at fault...I suggest pulling down a copy of the FSM for the checks/tests.

One thing you can check is the grounds. The left side head lamp ground is G104, located within the engine compartment at the LS fender, near the front of the fender. The right side headlamp ground is G106, located at the rear of the LS fender. Both grounds are located at or near the top of fender...Check for corrosion at both points, including terminal lug and wiring that attaches to it.

No clue, an “educated” guess suggests maybe they had burnt the connector out or something similar. Is there any way they could’ve crossed the two non ground wires and that would make the low beams dim?

 

[BR3500]

No clue, an “educated” guess suggests maybe they had burnt the connector out or something similar. Is there any way they could’ve crossed the two non ground wires and that would make the low beams dim?

Not sure on the question...I'd pull the wiring diagram and check the factory wire colors vice the connector pin outs to make sure that the splices for the pigtail are made correctly to the correct terminal/factory wiring. The headlamps use a 3 wire connector, pin 1 is the low beam driver, pin 2 is ground and pin 3 is high beam driver. Both driver circuits come directly from the TIPM. Here's how the head lamps work...FYI EMIC is the "electro-mechanical instrument cluster".

HEADLAMPS
The headlamp system includes the EMIC, the TIPM, the multi-function switch on the steering column and the head lamp switch on the instrument panel. The headlamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the headlamp and dash wire harness. The headlamp and dash wire harness has take outs with eyelet terminals that are secured by ground screws to the right (right headlamp bulb) and left (left headlamp bulb) inner fender support within the engine compartment. The EMIC monitors a hard wired multiplex input to determine the status of the headlamp switch, and a hard wired multiplex input from the multi-function switch to determine whether the high or low beams are selected. The EMIC then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp switch and headlamp beam select switch status messages to the TIPM over the CAN data bus.

The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a pulse width modulated voltage 8L - 90 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR - SERVICE INFORMATION DR output to the proper headlamp bulb through the right and left low and high beam feed circuits to illuminate the selected headlamp filaments. The TIPM also remembers which beams (low or high) were selected when the headlamps were last turned Off, and energizes those beams again the next time the headlamps are turned On. The TIPM provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the headlamps, which will turn these lamps off if they are left on for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the Lock position. The EMIC provides a fail-safe feature for the headlamps, which will send an electronic message to the TIPM to turn the low beam headlamps On automatically if it detects no input from the headlamp switch. Each headlamp includes an integral reflector adjustment screw to be used for static aiming of the headlamps

 

[cutoutcummins]

A easy fix would to use a relay harness that would be used for hids. Around $20 or so on eBay. You'll probably have to use resistors on the passenger side to eliminate the bulb out light. The harness will plug into the driver's side connector from the truck to trigger the relays. You'll have a + battery connection and a ground. The the harness plugs into each headlight. You'll always have 12v going to the lows and highs.

The tipm seems to be the biggest culprit with these trucks when it comes to electrical issues.


1990 w250 12v Cummins

 

[Needsworktruck6]

A easy fix would to use a relay harness that would be used for hids. Around $20 or so on eBay. You'll probably have to use resistors on the passenger side to eliminate the bulb out light. The harness will plug into the driver's side connector from the truck to trigger the relays. You'll have a + battery connection and a ground. The the harness plugs into each headlight. You'll always have 12v going to the lows and highs.

The tipm seems to be the biggest culprit with these trucks when it comes to electrical issues.


1990 w250 12v Cummins

I was trying to avoid this but I guess it makes sense since I want to buy a set of alpharex headlights for this truck. I hate electrical work with a passion, not as much as body work but its close. I would rather do my injectors again several times over as opposed to this stupid ****, that being said I enjoy actually seeing the road at night so I guess it has to be done. Is there a reputable brand out there that anyone knows of so a guy can keep that in mind?

 

[cutoutcummins]

I was trying to avoid this but I guess it makes sense since I want to buy a set of alpharex headlights for this truck. I hate electrical work with a passion, not as much as body work but its close. I would rather do my injectors again several times over as opposed to this stupid ****, that being said I enjoy actually seeing the road at night so I guess it has to be done. Is there a reputable brand out there that anyone knows of so a guy can keep that in mind?

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I used the early 3rd gens version of this on my 05 and had zero issues with it


1990 w250 12v Cummins

 

[Needsworktruck6]

Morimoto Universal HID Wire Harness 9007 H4 H13 9006 9005 9012 H7 H1 H11 H8 H9 | eBay

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I used the early 3rd gens version of this on my 05 and had zero issues with it


1990 w250 12v Cummins

Do they come with decent instructions or is it a figure it out yourself type deal? I'd imagine its not to difficult to plug in and route a harness but I’ve seen dumber stuff. Will a ballast resistor play nice with the halogen bulbs in the stock lights/the led’s that the alpharex headlights have?

 

[Needsworktruck6]

Problem solved, the headlight in question was wired backwards.