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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m searching around trying to come up with some info on the best head to work on. Perhaps you guys have some opinions on the best head to start with as a base? Motor I’m working on is a 97 12v. Looking to pick up a head and tune/dress it on the bench unitl I’m ready for an install. Things I’d be looking at are:

-Valve springs
-Port/Polish
-Custom Intake
-Injectors

Any year better from others?

Any tip’s/tricks to porting etc…?

Just throw’n it out while I search around….thanks for any input.
 

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i know a machine shop who will sell you a complete pp and o ringed head.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i know a machine shop who will sell you a complete pp and o ringed head.....
Thanks for the reply, but I'm looking for more of a "do it your self project". I'm very interested in building my own intake manifold, porting and pollishing both sides (exhaust and intake). Looking to do alot for a little... :thumbsup:
 

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are you milling your intake side off yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
are you milling your intake side off yourself?
Milling..........not quite. Removing, yes. It may start with a rough cut (using a grinder and a zip cut), then fine tune after that.

I am picking up an extra head to do the work on, then will swap it into the truck when done. (ie; no rush and I can take all the time I need to do it).

I just can not understand why Cummins would have such a POS for an intake on this motor :shock:

I've been reading/searching all about it and they are saying it's a waste of time if your not pushing 500 hp+, but I beg to differ. Any increase in air flow is going to help, and if I can do it my self, then why not!? Plus it gives me something to play with in the shop while my truck is still on the road.

I've been checking out custom intakes and have seen many so far. Some are big money, some are home made....looks like a good challenge/project…
 

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I just can not understand why Cummins would have such a POS for an intake on this motor :shock:
because they were meant to put out 215hp max and run for 24 hours straight, as well as manufacture cheaper


you are heading in the right direction. in the end i think you are going to have to have the intake surface of your head milled perfectly flat, so you can seal a flange to it
 

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dont forget that these same heads were designed and used on 370hp marine apps...

370hp all day long...

Not such a crappy head when used on a 215hp (intermittent, not constant power) engine

Yes hacking the old intake off with a sawzall/grinder/whatever will work, but in the end it WILL have to be milled
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I can see your guy’s point on the whole milling thing. I won’t know what my options are until I have a head on the bench and I get to start picking away at it :D

(Now call me crazy but…) considering I’m working on a budget, and am in no hurry to complete, as this will be a spare head, I might have time to do things a bit cheaper then
taking to a shop to have work done. For example: During the respectful removal the existing manifold, could I not leave a “lip” type of flange on that I could attach my new design to? Say
½” flange all around that I could overlap with a gasket and fasteners all around?

Or

Simply leave a ¼” flange all around if I can come off each port with a stud on either side (given there is enough meat to drill and tap…)

Like I said, I’m just thinking and getting excited before I start. (Kind of when you were a kid waiting for Christmas and dreaming of what toys you were gong to play with before you actually got them) :D
 

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Their is alot of force on that manifold when your hitting it with 50psi+ boost, its not something you can or want to just hack together with self tapping screws, furnace duct, and JB weld LOL
 

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dont spread lies Dave....JB Weld can fix engine blocks!!!! The Fukkin package says so damnit.
 

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its true, and it does work...

Weve got an old case loader with a hole in the block patched with JB, 5 years and still goin strong LOL
 

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I’m searching around trying to come up with some info on the best head to work on. Perhaps you guys have some opinions on the best head to start with as a base? Motor I’m working on is a 97 12v. Looking to pick up a head and tune/dress it on the bench unitl I’m ready for an install. Things I’d be looking at are:

-Valve springs
-Port/Polish
-Custom Intake
-Injectors

Any year better from others?

Any tip’s/tricks to porting etc…?

Just throw’n it out while I search around….thanks for any input.


Use the IH casting. I speak from exp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I.H. an in International Harvester…?

I’ll do a search and see what I can come up with. I have a deal pending on a 97 head that’s close to me though…

FYI… this is only a street truck, and I’m only looking for 300-400hp, (& currently only running 30-35psi boost max), with respectful fuel mileage. I’m sticking to the idea that letting the engine breath easier will enhance performance.

Once I have the other head ready, I can bump the timing up a bit and do the head gasket and studs…:thumbsup:

Just want to have a strong motor that will last. (This is the 3rd for this truck)….went through 2 24v’s.:S:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
its true, and it does work...

Weve got an old case loader with a hole in the block patched with JB, 5 years and still goin strong LOL
I worked at a marina for a few years, way back.... Some guy came in with a rotted out block (SBC) from salt water use. It was so bad one of the plugs on the side of the block rotted through and was filling his boat up with sea water. All he wanted was to get back out and play for the rest of the day so I plugged it up with JB. As far as I know, it's still going today! that was years ago! LOL!:rof

Yes, I know.....I don't understand why anyone would cool an engine with salt water either....but??
 

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I.H. an in International Harvester…?

I’ll do a search and see what I can come up with. I have a deal pending on a 97 head that’s close to me though…

FYI… this is only a street truck, and I’m only looking for 300-400hp, (& currently only running 30-35psi boost max), with respectful fuel mileage. I’m sticking to the idea that letting the engine breath easier will enhance performance.

Once I have the other head ready, I can bump the timing up a bit and do the head gasket and studs…:thumbsup:

Just want to have a strong motor that will last. (This is the 3rd for this truck)….went through 2 24v’s.:S:
For what you want Id just port the exhaust side and clean up the bowls. Being in Canada youll want to keep the heater grid, I have a IR manifold (aka no heater grid) and while my truck isnt a DD, starting it in -20º weather, would take some healthy batteries.
 
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