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99 qclb, 325dap, compound. Billet trans, 37 toyo, lockers, winch, 10kw stereo, quadzilla
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been doing some reading, lots of people say you need to retorque the studs but i dug around in the manual from arp and they say it isnt necessary. i plan to check my valve lash tomorrow so that would be the time if im going to. i installed the studs with arp's lube and over torqued them by 12ft/lbs per arp's recommendation.

thoughts?
 

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I installed mine just like you did and then adjusted valve lash. Then put about a dozen heat cycles on them...then retorque once. When I retorqued I didn't loosen them just hit em with the torque wrench. Only a few of them moved just the slightest...the rest were good. Then I rechecked valve lash again and they were all good. I don't plan on retorquing again...they are good to go.
 

· Super Moderator
99 qclb, 325dap, compound. Billet trans, 37 toyo, lockers, winch, 10kw stereo, quadzilla
Joined
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5,048 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just got a call back from arp. they said to not retorque unless the gasket mfg specifically called for it
 

· Super Moderator
99 qclb, 325dap, compound. Billet trans, 37 toyo, lockers, winch, 10kw stereo, quadzilla
Joined
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5,048 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
checked the lash, it was all tight but still in spec. couple thou max change so i guess thats just the head lifting a bit as the power is hit?
 

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What do you think about a little cam, lifter, push-rod, rocker arm & top of the valve stem wear? Of course you get some of that back with valve & seat wear.
I followed ARP's instructions to the letter and haven't looked back.
 
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