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Sooo im pretty near 100% positive that i blew the HG in my 08 6.7L blowing coolant out the over flow, temp guage fluctuating huge under accel.. etc etc. I have already checked the easy's such as rad cap and t-stat.

Now my question is this, for those of you that have replace your stock HG What are you using for a replacement? What are the best studs/bolts to be using without breaking the bank completely. (I am not scared to treat my truck right either) I have heard a lot of good things about ARP's 625's?

When you pull the heads off of these trucks how many people have legitimately needed to have the heads decked? and by how much? what are the specs? I have a week to order all parts and basically have one day to do this without missing out on work and i really cant be doing that. Thats why i was wondering about head warpage numbers, if it is a likely chance its warped then i will get my old 2001 back in service and use it for work for the next few weeks. (and pray the truck holds together)

what all gaskets am i going to need to do this? exhust flanges, intake horn? ccv will be replaced also while im in there. Is there anything that i will need to look out for over and above what has been written in the two HG replacemnet write ups?

It sucks that it happened and i know its happened to lots of other people i just thought i would be safe since i was running my smarty on the lowest setting. And have ever since i owned the truck. Was pushing a 50 kmh head wind doing 110 kmh, stopped and smelled the coolant right away.

Thanks for any help! Kinda nervous for next weekends project and kinda excited to rip into this thing..

P.S why do you have to remove the injectors to do this job? Is it just so you can get at all the studs?
 

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I dont think there is a upgraded gasket just the stock replacement one from cummins, 625 studs are they best but 425's and a wastegate will be better than just 625 alone. its a good idea to take the head to a machine shop and at least have them check it to make sure, not doing this would be stupid because if it is warped and you just replace the gasket you will be doing it again. more than likely from what iv read its going to be warped so id get the 01 back up and running.

Gdp has a head set that will have all the gaskets you will need to do the job....
best way to get the head off is get a long 2x4 that stretches across both ends of the front fenders, get a chain and secure the cylinder head to the
2x4 and you and a buddy lift up and walk it out from under the hood. (if you have a cherry picker forget what i just said)

remove the injectors because they stick through the head and if for some reason you drop it or bang it off things while removing it you will break off the tips and be screwed. Its not hard to remove them at all.

and dont forget the beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I dont think there is a upgraded gasket just the stock replacement one from cummins, 625 studs are they best but 425's and a wastegate will be better than just 625 alone. its a good idea to take the head to a machine shop and at least have them check it to make sure, not doing this would be stupid because if it is warped and you just replace the gasket you will be doing it again. more than likely from what iv read its going to be warped so id get the 01 back up and running.
well id love to do a wastegate too but unfortunately i just dont have the time right now for that. if i go with the 625s i can always gate it afterwards anyway. I fully plan on checking the head for warpage but i wont be taking it to the machine shop unless it proves to be warped. my straight edge and feeler guages will work for the time being. I think just in case, i will be trying to wind up the old 5.9L and make sure it still goes. I have to take the Guts out of the front diff so it doesnt lock solid on me on the highway. The bearings are so bad in the front of it that the pinion is ratcheting on the crown now.

Makes sense about removing the injectors because of how far they protrude, i new there had to be a good reason just couldnt think of it.

Who or what is GDP?
And dont worry about the Beer free days supply to anyone willing to come and help??!! I think i have enough man power right now but hey another set of experienced eyes never hurts.
 

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Put your order in now for the 625's, they are very hard to find. When the next shi[pment comes in make sure you have them paid for if not they will probably be spoken for. National backorder. Some will be in on 4/6/12 and other shops as late as the 20th
 

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well id love to do a wastegate too but unfortunately i just dont have the time right now for that. if i go with the 625s i can always gate it afterwards anyway. I fully plan on checking the head for warpage but i wont be taking it to the machine shop unless it proves to be warped. my straight edge and feeler guages will work for the time being. I think just in case, i will be trying to wind up the old 5.9L and make sure it still goes. I have to take the Guts out of the front diff so it doesnt lock solid on me on the highway. The bearings are so bad in the front of it that the pinion is ratcheting on the crown now.

Makes sense about removing the injectors because of how far they protrude, i new there had to be a good reason just couldnt think of it.

Who or what is GDP?
And dont worry about the Beer free days supply to anyone willing to come and help??!! I think i have enough man power right now but hey another set of experienced eyes never hurts.

You don't have enough time to do a wastegate but you have enough time to do a head gasket? A wastegate is an hour tops. With Richs kit from GDP ( Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail ) you're looking at an hour or less to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
You don't have enough time to do a wastegate but you have enough time to do a head gasket? A wastegate is an hour tops. With Richs kit from GDP ( Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail ) you're looking at an hour or less to install.
Yes thats what i said, it looks to me like that waste gate system just dumps underneath your truck. I would want to weld it in to my down pipe so that will take more then hour while im already going to be spending one of my several needed days off replacing a head gasket. And like i said above, i have under a week Since friday is a holiday... to collect all parts needed for this project before i have to go back to work. either using my 08 or the 01. Once i move back to alberta permanently i will have some free time and hopefully go employee and not have to use my personal truck for work. Then i start playing with it.

P.S thank you for that link to Glacier Diesel Performance tho.
 

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What part of Alberta you in - I have the GDP kit and live in Wetaskiwin if you ever wanted a quick look .

Peter
 

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Gixxermill,

You said: "i just thought i would be safe since i was running my smarty on the lowest setting."

Now you've got me scared! I'm running my Smarty Jr. 28ME on the lowest setting and don't want to blow a head gasket. Were your other settings default? I've got my timing set on 2 and default on the torque. Just to confirm we only have three settings for the Smarty Jr.: Fuel Savings / Tow / Perfomance and mine is on the first.

Please tell me you did lots of WOTs and/or fooled with the upper settings!!
 

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well id love to do a wastegate too but unfortunately i just dont have the time right now for that. if i go with the 625s i can always gate it afterwards anyway. I fully plan on checking the head for warpage but i wont be taking it to the machine shop unless it proves to be warped. my straight edge and feeler guages will work for the time being. I think just in case, i will be trying to wind up the old 5.9L and make sure it still goes. I have to take the Guts out of the front diff so it doesnt lock solid on me on the highway. The bearings are so bad in the front of it that the pinion is ratcheting on the crown now.

Makes sense about removing the injectors because of how far they protrude, i new there had to be a good reason just couldnt think of it.

Who or what is GDP?
And dont worry about the Beer free days supply to anyone willing to come and help??!! I think i have enough man power right now but hey another set of experienced eyes never hurts.
if you live in edmonton nadp has both 425's and 625's and best yet, they sell them cheaper than the american prices.

btw, if anyone in edmonton has a brand new wastegate kit, sell it to me! I want one bad!
 

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If you are closer to Red Deer, call Armor Inc, they usually have a set of studs in stock too, 425's will be fine for your truck unless you ever plan on getting a bigger turbo. I've ran 425's in a couple trucks without issue, went to the 625's in this one because of the compounds pushing over 70psi
 

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Gixxermill,

You said: "i just thought i would be safe since i was running my smarty on the lowest setting."

Now you've got me scared! I'm running my Smarty Jr. 28ME on the lowest setting and don't want to blow a head gasket. Were your other settings default? I've got my timing set on 2 and default on the torque. Just to confirm we only have three settings for the Smarty Jr.: Fuel Savings / Tow / Perfomance and mine is on the first.

Please tell me you did lots of WOTs and/or fooled with the upper settings!!
make sure you let the engine warm up fully before you get on it. warming the engine up is a biggie. otherwise, not much more you can do without more modifications that you're not already doing. if its going to blow, its going to blow. you can blow one fully stock.

a waste gate, studs, have the head machined flat are all modifications you can do to help. others i'm sure can help you figure out more of what to do to lower the odds of blowing it. biggest killer is the drive pressure.
 

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make sure you let the engine warm up fully before you get on it. warming the engine up is a biggie. otherwise, not much more you can do. if its going to blow, its going to blow. you can blow one fully stock.
This is what I do. I do everything to make mine last. I let it warm up, I let it idle before I turn it off to let turbo cool down. And mine never sees over 12 psi.
 

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This is what I do. I do everything to make mine last. I let it warm up, I let it idle before I turn it off to let turbo cool down. And mine never sees over 12 psi.
i just switched to the smarty around the first of the year, before that it was the edge with hot unlock, mp8 100% and the fleece boost fooler. i'm probably a lucky one but i've not been the nicest once the engine is warmed up. i am going to be switching the compressor wheel out here soon when i rebuild the POS vgt. :doh: darn nozzles are sticking. :banghead:

OP, there are also the A1 H11's from ATS. they're in between the ARP 2000s and the 625s and cheaper then the 625's. they'll also hold some pretty high HP.
 

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And mine never sees over 12 psi.
How do you pass cars on the hiway..........:hehe:

Just kidding are you serious about only 12psi , fully warmed up you should easily be safe to atleast 20psi if not a bit more . I am on Smarty level 6 and have been for two years but I am wastegated which probably has saved my a$$ already . I have spiked it to 36psi but I do for the most part drive like a little old lady .
 

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yea im serious I dont drive it hard. Yea it has seen more than that but just a few times. Mostly 8-12 range max
 

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yea im serious I dont drive it hard. Yea it has seen more than that but just a few times. Mostly 8-12 range max
Dude drive your truck don't be scared. As long as you keep it below 30 you will be fine. If your still stock driving the way you do will do more harm then good in the long run, not to mention your turbo will be a lump of cOal
 
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