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So lets say you buy a used 351 for your first gen that "was rebuilt" by the forum member but when it arrived what you saw was a crusty old turbo with not a lot but more play in the shaft then what you felt a rebuilt should have.

Well that sums up my first used turbo experience but I got it for an ok price and figured now is a good time to learn something new. So I had my NAPA parts guy order me up a Genuine Holset rebuild kit and disassembled my new to me turbo. So yes it was in fact rebuilt but with a cheap kit from probably the lowest cost E-Bay site.

So I did not take a lot of pics of the tear down but have plenty or the rebuild. First thing I did before tear down was clean a spot on one of my work tables. Then I laid everything out as it came out of the turbo. I kept all old parts even once the new ones showed up so I could compare and mic everything out.

Then I did a good cleaning of the 3 housings, masked up any openings that I wanted to keep the blast media out of and blasted away. Then I washed again really well with a de-greaser, rinsed with water and used compressed air to dry out before Backing for 30 min on about 250* to get all moisture out. Then I hit everything with a VHT Flame proof clear. I followed the instructions and did 2 light "tack" coats followed by one medium coat and let dry for about 2 days before making my wife so proud by once again using her oven! After the 3 cycles and turing off the smoke alarm I went to bed:doh:

Ok so here is where the story picks up.

old crusty and very dirty inside turbo.


Right out of the blast cabinet.


Getting the water all out.


Down in the basement getting sprayed (only place warm and dry enough)


Baked and ready to start final clean up and reassembly.


Old parts all laid out for inspection and comparison to the new Holset parts.


Here are a few things that should make you spend the extra $30 and get a Genuine Holset kit. First look at the shaft bushings. The one on the left is the cheap version and the right is the Holset. Notice the oil grove around the body connecting the oil holes! This will help insure good oiling around the shaft. I also noticed that all the Holset holes and edges were eased where the cheap were not or not very well.


Next was the center thrust bushing. First note was the cheap one on the left was .003 thinner then the Holset. I'm not sure what they shouold be but judging by the surface plate machining marks on the Holset (on the right) my guess is they check and make sure it is all to their spec!


This next pic shows the Holset quality control is just so much higher, look at the small oiling holes in the center, even they were eased as well as all edges. I know which one I want spinning at a 100k under my hood just before going into my engine!


The first thing to do is remove and clean out the "piston rings" from the shaft and thrust bushing thingy. They come off easy then I take one and twist it half way around and use it as a ring scraper. after that I wire brush the ring grove, blow it with compressed air and put the new ring in place then set it to the side.



After that I went into the inner snap ring groves in the center Cartridge and re-cleaned the groves with a 90* pick. This area was caked with crud when I took it apart the first time.


I did this step next but it could have been done sooner in the process but make sure you do it before installing the bushings just in case you were to slip! I used a pair of channel locks to remove the old location pins and then installed the new pins that came in the kit. This was possibly not needed as these pins don't see much stress but after what I found in this "rebuilt Turbo I was leaving nothing to chance plus they came in the kit so Holset thought they were important right!


After that replace both inner snap rings (1 from each side of the Cartridge). I did this by using snap ring pliers to get it into the bore then I took a round punch just under the bore size and pushed the snap ring into place. Doing it this way I find with squares everything up much better and safer. Once you feel it click into place use a small pick and make sure it is fully seated. If you have the propper clips and the grove it good and clean the snap ring will rotate in the grove. If it does not then chances are it is not seated all the way or your grove is not fully cleaned. A side not is the cheap clips I took out bent inn half just during removal so my guess is they did not have a very good temper to them!



Next I lubed up the bore and the shaft bushing and pushed them into place. Then the next snap ring went in and was checked to make sure it was seated and rotated. FYI not all snap rings are designed to rotate after install, it all depends on the intended usage.


Now we are starting to make traction, impeller shaft install! Just slide it right into place! NOT... Lets be smart about this and tape up the nice sharp threads on the end of this before sliding it like a rat tale file thru our new bushings! Also I use plenty of red line assembly lube on all these moving parts, just good insurance I feel.


PLEASE STOP AND NOTE I SCREWED UP!! During this install I forgot the exhaust wheel dust cover as seen in this pic. It goes on the main shaft PRIOR to installing the shaft into the cartridge. When I was cleaning up parts I noticed I had one extra! This just proves it is a good idea to lay everything new and old out BUT separate so you too can catch this mistake like I did. Sorry the only perfect guy I know was nailed up a long time ago but is still around to help out!



So from here on you will see the dust shield is not installed but is now and should have been. Oop's!



Next was the thrust bushing and spacer followed by the oil slinger deflection plate thing-u-mu-bob.
You will notice the plate only goes in correct 1 way and that is with the two location pins lined up so the machined recess in the bushing lines up with the larger oiling hole in the Cartridge floor. This is a critical oil passage to give your turbo long life.


Before installing MR. thing-u-mu-bob make sure you install the new supplied O-ring from the kit. If you look close you will see in down in the housing. This is a seal as well applies pressure against the disk you are about to install.


Then comes the new snap ring from the kit that holds this disk in place. It will look like the disk is not in deep enough but the O-ring is holding pressure against it as well as the main shaft is pushing against it so do not force things against the work bench. What I did was held the assembly in my hands, pushed the disk down with my thumbs and then held it in place with one thumb while I grabbed the Snap ring and inserted one edge of the clip into the grove. I then carefully used the correct snap ring pliers to set the snap ring. This snap ring has a tapered edge (this taper faces the Housing or face down) so once I had it in the grove I used a small roll pin punch I had and lightly taped the ring to sully set it in the grove. This one will not spin like the others did as it has pressure pushing back against it.




Kevin
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Discussion Starter #2
Next the compressor wheel went on followed by the NEW 12 point nut supplied in the kit. These nuts are a one time used! in order to tighten this up (by myself) i place a 12 point socket (13 or 14mm?) in the vise and then using one hand to hold the Cartridge and one hand on the torque wrench with the 12 point 10mm socket I tightened it down. Do not let the cartridge rest in the vise by it self because if it falls all bets are off except the one where i bet you just ruined your impellers! My hand is not on it in the second pic only for taking this picture and I was nervous!! From what could find this 10mm 12point torques to 10-11lbs.




Now you have a completed Cartridge ready for the housings to be installed. Note I did put my plug in the top oil hole and my cover plate on the oil outlet to make sure it stays clean. I will show this next step later as I need to mount the turbo so I can properly index the ceter cartridge so the oil lines are vertical and still be able to use the stock waist gate so I will have a switchable 20/40psi limit.
This will require all new IC piping and that will be another post along with the PS IC install.

Here is the Ford Power Stroke 7.3L Intercooler install link that I'm working on.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93-powertrain/1913921-7-3l-intercooler-install-w-3-tubing.html

I hope this was helpful to someone or gave you the courage to try to rebuild your own turbo. It really was simple, just take your time and buy the correct GENUINE HOLSET rebuild kit! it is worth the extra few bucks. The cheaper version is just that CHEAP!!!!!

Also for those on here that didn't know Eric with The Hungry Diesel can get your rebuild kits, I'm sure he carries Genuine Holset , he is who I ordered my new V-Band clamps from. He had them in stock and beat everyone else's price on a side by side comparison. What I mean is you can find and get cheaper but that's just what you get cheaper. Eric only sells quality parts, his reputation and business depend on it! Look him up and give him a shout.

Kevin
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Do you have the P/N for the kit you used?
 

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Do you have the P/N for the kit you used?
Now my parts guy wanted lots of info off my turbo before ordering this so I'm not sure if 1 size fits all or not, I think it does but :confused013:



Kevin
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