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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I got the he351vgt in and working off of exhasut manifold backpressure or drive pressure. I bought most of these parts from deerefanatic on here.

manifold adapter with a port coming out of it for the drive pressure line

cooling and condensing the exhaust gas

separating the solids and condensation before sending the gas to the air cylinder & pressure gauge

the air cylinder actuator and linkage. The red hose comes from an electric switch that lets in compressed air to activate the exhaust brake feature.

home made/modified 4in down tube with V band flange on top


home made charge air tube


I thought if I ran the coolant through the turbo on its way to the heater core it would give me cab heat before the engine warmed up, plus warm the engine a little quicker, plus keep the turbo and the oil going through it a little cooler. That would be a win win win right? I can't tell that it really made much difference.


The stock air filter box and a bhaf won't fit on the fender anymore so I got this air filter for now. I'm not sure I want to leave it this way where in the summer while towing up mountain passes it will be drawing warm air off the turbo exhaust housing.

overall the project has
given me a little more boost pressure at low load, like 4lbs of boost @ 1500 rpm @ 35 mph which means it can take more fuel instantly now making the truck quicker on acceleration.

reduced my exhaust back pressure especially in 25 - 35lbs of boost ranges where the stock hx35 really became a restriction point for the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that section of pipe in the picture. the exhaust gas goes in the middle. I was worried about the soot, carbon or oily gunk that might come through so I' hoping any solids & moisture would drop to the bottom (where I have a drain valve), then cleaner air rises to the top where I take the drive psi to the air cylinder and to the boost psi gauge I use to monitor exhaust back pressure.
 

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Good thread with great descriptive pics! Cleanest looking adapter I've seen. Can you send the specs on that? Also, what are the demensions on that downpipe? The more info, the better. This is the best set up I've seen for the 12-valve VGT swap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks!
I don't have any "specs" that I can give you. I just fabricate it as I go with a lot of trial and error.

My son is researching (reading lots of forums & posts) ways of doing this conversion on his truck. He has a plan to put pipe plugs in existing holes then redrill and use bolts instead of studs, which will allow him to bolt the turbo directly to the 12v manifold. He hasn't done it yet so I can't comment on how it worked.
He has also read threads that say the drive pressure will push the variable vanes toward the open position so you only need a spring on the outside to slow how fast the vanes open. that would really simplify things if it works out nicely. There will be no exhaust brake feature with this method.
Just offering alternatives for you to think about.
 

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Fair enough. Thanks! Mine is run off drive pressure as well but has a valve so you can still use the exhaust brake. The valve is activated by a switch that goes under the brake pedal. Should turn out good.

I wanted to put the turbo with the manifold facing down like normal. And I don't want to drill holes in my manifold either. Too difficult with the shock tower in the way. I'm gonna flip the manifold and get the adapter plates off eBay and then I just need to custom fab a downpipe. This is a pic of my actuator:
pics Machine




Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Thanks for the pics. Got my wheels turning again. Been on the fence with the ve turbo for a while. How well does the exhaust brake work? Do you turn on EB for warm up?
 

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Was thinking about doing this for my ride, but a lot of threads made it seem like a big headache.
 

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I haven't installed it yet. Might actually be selling my truck before I get the chance anyway... And yes the exhaust brake helps it warm up. I live in Fairbanks Alaska where it can get negative 60 to negative 70. This turbo was definitely a great option with the exhaust brake. It can be a bit of a headache if you do it this way. But there is a stand alone controller on eBay that someone has made up for about $550. Do that with a T3-T4i adapter plate and then custom fab the downpipe and you're ready to go.


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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for the pics. Got my wheels turning again. Been on the fence with the ve turbo for a while. How well does the exhaust brake work? Do you turn on EB for warm up?
I dare to say the exhaust brake feature works better than one you buy and add on after the turbo.
This not only adds exhaust restriction but in doing so it actually builds boost pressure too. The added boost pressure makes compression harder thus slowing the engine all the more. When I'm coasting down the mountain, with the trailer behind me, at 45mph my boost guage will show 4-5psi of boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've started another project on my truck and that made me see that I never felt like I finished this one.

I don't like air filters that I have to wash. what if I tear it, what if not enough or too much oil, so I moved the battery on the right side farther back and put the factory air box on top of the original battery tray.



I cut a bunch of holes in the bottom of the air box and in the front to let more air in.

I used the 3 studs from the factory location of the air box to bolt another battery tray onto the fender, made a heat shield to protect the battery from any heat that may radiate over from the turbo, extended the positive battery cable and removed the factory coolant overflow bottle (because the air box wouldn't fit with it there) and installed a smaller square shaped generic overflow under the air box.



In the first picture notice how crowded it is to get to the oil filter. Below the filter are the air conditioning lines. Now I have the new charge air tube and a heater hose beside it. making it frustrating to spin a filter on or off.
So I did an oil filter relocate.

Here is the filter adapter with fittings to direct the hoses under the turbo oil return.


Here is the remote filter head with bolts and fittings


The whole remote filter assyembly


I moved my exhaust outside the frame rail for my 13 spd trany project, you can see/read about that here
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/776025-13-spd-trany-conversion.html
and so I put the filter head on the frame where the filter hanging down is protected by the lower A arm

 
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