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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ive searched for a few days with no luck... my truck will be fine most of the time but it seems like when the grid heater comes on for whatever reason the truck just clicks like its totally dead, but all you have to do is touch the battery to the jumpercables on another and it starts just fine. the dash volts read just above 8 when it does this and will raise to around 11 when the heater shuts off. i am having to jump it just about every day now, and have had the batteries tested and they read good?
could this be a solenoid problem?
 

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Who ever tested your batteries lied. That sounds exactly like bad batteries.

If your voltage is going to 8 VDC they are way too weak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
ok. i just thought it was somethin else cause the batteries dont do it consistently and the clock never resets like they are dead, and i dont have to put the jumpers on for more than a second or 2...
 

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ive searched for a few days with no luck... my truck will be fine most of the time but it seems like when the grid heater comes on for whatever reason the truck just clicks like its totally dead, but all you have to do is touch the battery to the jumpercables on another and it starts just fine. the dash volts read just above 8 when it does this and will raise to around 11 when the heater shuts off. i am having to jump it just about every day now, and have had the batteries tested and they read good?
could this be a solenoid problem?
For all you guys having codes. I bought an 08 in Dec. Two days later started getting codes after startup. Weird codes. Probably 8 or 10 different ones sometimes one only then maybe three or four. Could you imagine walking into the stealer with something like this. Heres what I did and it worked. Give it a try you got nothing to lose. Take the grounds off of the battery cables to the fender and emery the paint off and clean the eyes. A little dielectric grease on them as well. one more at the frame dr side in front of the wheel. most important is the engine to body cable under the truck at the lower firewall position. On mine the welded stud was punched through the insulation as the factory didn't center the ins properly. the codes show up when the grid heater cuts in causing low voltage because of weak grounds. Three months code free now. This is my take on some of the code problems. This may affect poor starting as well


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Actually that is very good advice for all vehicles.
 

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I have seen where the cables become corroded in the middle. My toyota was doing the same thing and I thought it was the batteries. I replaced the batteries and the same problem appeared again a couple days later. My grandfather told me it was the cables and I didn't believe him. After a couple of days trying to trouble shoot the problem I decided to change the cables. Needless to say that my grandfather was right, my problem went away. After replacing the cables I peeled the insulation off of the old one and it was nothing but a white powder under the insulation and between the strands. It may not be what your problem is but it is something to think about.
 

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You can check the cables by using a multimeter. If you place one lead on the each end of the cable and measure the voltage. The voltage for a good cable will read 0 or very close. If there is anything much higher than that then there is a gap or weak spot in the cable.
 

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commonly when a lot of places "check" the batteries they do not unhook the cables thus for you can have one bad and it will read good but infact have one junk. replace them both is my suggestion or get a volt meter unhook the cables then while reading the volt meter hit the switch and see which of the 2 batteries are junk and replace.
 

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Buck is right on the money.
 

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one, or possibly both, batteries with low capacity; or a grounding issue - for sure. mine was acting exactly like this and one of the batteries was bad so i would show good voltage, but with the grid heater and amps needed to start, the bad battery would just suck the amps out of the good battery. new battery (under warranty - woohoo) and problem solved.
 

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Any auto parts store should be able to "load test" them, that should tell you if the amps are low under a load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the info, ill be getting some new batteries
 

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Sounds like a bad battery. you can load test them but make sure they are disconnected prior to testing. If one tests bad, replace both.
 

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I have had this issue in both of my trucks, and just ran into it with my girlfriends Lexus SC430. Took a wire brush to the terminals on the battery as well as the cable connectors, hit it with some terminal cleaner and scrub them again. Treat with some corrosion protector and you should be good to go. You would be suprised how much a bit of corrosion or just a barely loose connection can affect EVERYTHING! All total this is about 10 bucks for everything, and should be done when you install the new batteries (if this does not help solve your issue on its own).
 
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